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It is my opinion that separable driveshaft pieces should be balanced individually, so we don't need to make special assembly requirements. The individual balancing means you can randomly assemble.
Did Alfa do individual balancing or balanced assemblies? I don't know.

I haven't taken note of how the center fork is clocked relative to the front, so I will get pictures of mine.
 

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A Milano driveshaft I have as a spare.
The center yoke is about 10-15 deg from being in line with the front. I also note, that the rear driveshaft yokes are clocked together. I have no reason to believe the center bearing was ever replaced...it wasn't damaged either...so ...who knows...because.....>30 years old.
I agree with Alfar7, in that 60 deg away is best. But, I would assemble the way I found it, especially if it's a non removable crossmember car. Much too difficult to experiment with those.
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If you're referring to this, I guess the answer is yes. This seems to be for the 4 cylinder cars though. My hardcopy of Section 15 for the V6 2.5 is only 3 pages (tile pg, lubricants, tightening torque pg and special tools. Basically worthless.
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More info. '81 GTV6. Maybe it's about 20 deg apart from front. Based on what I've seen of this car, if previous owner took apart, he would have slapped it together randomly, but actually I think the driveshaft wasn't molested.
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Yes, the front giubo coupler with pinch bolt can only installed one way, due to keyway. However to get to the center bearing, the rear flange of the front driveshaft needs to be removed. That 3 fingered yolk fits on a spline on the rear of the front driveshaft. Because the orientation differs on many assemblies, apparently this is not keyed. I actually don't know because, I have never actually performed a proper center bearing repair. My repairs have always been squeezing RTV into torn center mounts. Always worked so far, one of these days, I'll actually replace a center bearing.
 

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Yes, that is my intention also, to install as is, and then asses vibration, if any. It will be awhile before I get my GTV6 up and running. I bought it disassembled.

I have a Milano that will be getting new transmission mounts, it is starting to have vibration issues. I will put my laser guide to the transmission input. My Milano has been hit from behind, but chassis seems straight. The right front door is also a different shade, so something happened there before I acquired it.
Maybe I will make a front giubo out of steel sheet as suggested by Doss410 (in my thread) although for the front, that bellhousing gets in the way of measuring things.

I do believe that making things as straight as possible will increase the longevity of the giubos.
 

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How did you hold the laser pointer on the front?
I thought of getting a 26mm OD, 10mm ID bearing to fit into flywheel, like using it as a clutch pilot bearing. Then use scotch tape to bring the OD of a .38 spl laser pointer to 10mm. You would need to spin the laser in the bearing to see the circle that is drawn.
Did you spin the bearing, to see that circle?
I think engine torque would make the engine tension the left side mount, and compress the right side mount. Not sure of which way the center will move, under torque. Basically the engine will have a roll center based on its 3 point suspension. Come to think of it, same with transmission.
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Here's my result. The bearing I bought was too cheap. The inner race allows too much movement. I might bump the rear engine mount, but not now. I also will put together and hope for no vibration. Images show left right range while wiggling laser.
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What did you do to align the engine to gearbox? Did you adjust the rear mount bushing to the right to get the laser to point at the trans input shaft? I have installed mine with a hydraulic press, and I can't imagine actually adjusting it under the car.

I have respondent in my thread indicate that giubo should not be over torqued.
 
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