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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My AFM is out of wack. So I did some looking around and found a brand called PYTHON They sell them at a great price, they are rebuilt and tested. Has any one used one of these units?
Out of Wack as in someone drilled out the aluminum cap, turned the allen wrench then took off the black plastic top and proceded to rotate the black wheel, marked it but didn't mark a second location to align the first mark too. So I figure its worth the money to get a new one thats already adjusted and known to work.
Car idles, but excessively rich, chuggs and the only way to smooth it out is cut off fuel supply power and there is a few moments where car runs great until you have to supply power back to the fuel pump for the engine to get more fuel. then all over again.
Any input would be helpful.

I just replaced the fuel pressure regulator with a new one hoping it was the cause. but it wasn't
 

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I would stay away from Python stuff. It is consistently bad out of the box. I have had customers bring me fuel pumps that have leaked from the seams as soon as it fires up(3). The MAF sensors are usually bad too.

Paul
 

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If you think you're running to rich on account of the AFM, tighten it up 5 notches, and see how it runs. just keep notes on the changes you make, and mark your initial position.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
There is more to this problem but its very hard to explain. I will try my best. I do have a 3" thick alfa manual that explains everything but I just don't understand this one.
When i got my alfa GTV6, 1985 a few months back. NOTE: When i got it, it was running good, but with the key forward, the fuel pump would never shut off so I took off the plastic cap to the afm. I noticed in the terminal closest to the radiator that someone has put a copper wire running from that terminal to the one next to it. (I know its fuel related). I removed the plastic cap from the afm and even if the points were open the fuel pump ran. So i read my repair manual for a long long time and noticed that the dual relay screwed to the corner of the fender/firewall had a seperated case. (intentially). I investigated it and i noticed that with the car off/key out of ignition, if i made those little points touch my fuel pump went on. Then off the second i let go. So Hmmmmm I bought a new combirelay for a mere $100. Got it, went to install it. Then I noticed that someone has piggybacked another relay to the combi relay on the fuel circuit. I assumed thats because the old combirelay was bad i presumed and justified the copper wire jumper in the afm harness as well. So i tore out the copper jumper, removed the piggyback relay and installed the new relay and then NOTHING. absolutely no fuel pump pumping away. Even if I open the gate of the afm or make contact with the contact points on the afm, nothing. now If i put this piggyback relay back into my combirelay the fuel pump works as it should so it seems. But I am not suppose to have a piggyback relay helping out my combirelay, I know this much. So I literally took my dash out to trace where the combirelay wires went to and it seems they are all hooked up but not a hundred percent sure. I really can't trace exactly where the combirelay wires go to. My fuses have all been removed, fuse contacts have been polished, and new fuses installed. Still its the same. For lack of knowledge, It seems to me that I am missing a power supply to my combirelay, but I can't figure it out. Then to make things worse as it seems, I totally removed my entire A/C system as in every wire imaginable and then i go to start the car and it chuggs, chokes, fuel won't stop coming in so i replaced the fuel pressure regulator and does the same. Its late tonight but I can tell you what wires and numbers dont have juice going to my combi relay if that helps. But I did try running a 12v source directly to the combirelay terminals that my manual say should have juice but it didn't do squat in fixing this problem. Is there an afm/fuel control person here in this forum? Now with the afm cover off I can manually hold the points apart and the chugging stops but only for a few seconds because the fuel has been cut off then when the contact points come back in contact it chuggs again. I just can't figure out how to control my fuel pressure between the afm and combirelay it seems. Maybe I should make a 5 minute video, do you think it would help?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just read what I wrote and Wow, I congratulate anyone that understands what I am talking about up there. But I really hope someone does understand what i am talking about and has a few helpful words.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I wonder if a bad O2 sensor can make me run this rich. We were under the car beating the catalytic converter until it was hollow, with a long pipe. Hmmm
 

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Sounds like you are jumping around trying to diagnose the problem. I would step back and start over. Check all the grounds with a muli-meter. Make sure that all the pins are making good contact within the connectors(AFM,temp sensors,etc) Check that the cam timing is set properly.Check that everything is adjusted properly(throttle plate,ignition timing,etc)
Once you get the car running you can use the multi meter to test the O2 sensor. Until then unhook it. I don't remember but does the 85 six have a three wire sensor? You may have damaged the sensor and it is shorted. Try disconnecting the square plug and the spade connector and seeing if the engine runs.
When you gutted the cat( not sure why) did you remove all the guts. There are several different pieces of inside. Maybe you dislodged a chunk and didn't remove it and it's plugging the exhaust.

I would get the car running well 1st and then start screwing with it one thing at a time. That way when you break something you know what you did and can fix that one thing and be back on the road.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did do what you said Paul, just before you said it. So Everything was just great until I removed my A/C system totally, wires, condensor, you name it, everything. Immediately after that it started running this way. The converter was gutted and the car ran fine afterwards. It was only after the ac removal that i had problems. I even had my entire dash off tracing wires. Thank god I have that 3" thick repair manual, except following the wire schematics is not my strong point. Thanks for that advice. by the way I have a 3 wire O2 sensor. Its a 1985. I'll keep digging, like you said. Drop everything and start over from scratch. Thats great advice. I think thats about where i am and what i am about to do.
 

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Based on my problems, which are pretty similar, I'd check all of your grounds and connectors. Clean everything you can with Deoxit (cleans and lubricates electrical connectors - found it at Guitar Center in the Pro Audio section). If a connector looks suspect, snip it and fix it. I have stiff and cracked wires, loose connectors, coolant drenched connectors, you name it. Bit by bit I'm clipping, stripping, cleaning, soldering and heat shrinking every nasty looking connection I can find.
 

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Check resistance of coolant temp sensor cold and hot (0ne at a 45 in mid thermostat housing facing left headlight). Cold about 3000 ohms (3kohm) and 300 ohms hot. If high reading hot engine is going to run rich.
 

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Just for reference, i believe BOSCH set the AFM idle mixture screw from the factory three (3) turns OUT from fully clockwise seated position. It was common for mechanics doing tune-ups or emissions etc to adjust it using a gas analyzer forward the catalytic converter. So after EVERYTHING else has been exhausted try resetting the AFM to factory three turns out. Also on MY GTV6 2.5 AFM it was 22 notches from a full loose position when i unwound it - i would not maybe go that far unless you have a spare :D and of course everything else above has been exhausted to no means!
 

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while you're checking things out, you might want to take a look at the accordian fold air induction tube for cracks in the folds and/or loose connections. if you want to replace the AFM get a hold of a used 5 series BMW AFM (it is larger so it flows considerably more air) and get one of Greg Gordon's silicon air induction tubes (no folds so much less turbulence)

I just looked at mine - Bosche, part no. 0 280 203002.

and while your at it - an air fuel ratio sensor/read-out (either guage or colored LEDs) but make sure you get the one for your O2 sensor.

and if you get Greg's silicon tube - top it off with a K&N filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I've just done some reading on the bmw afm. sounds like quite an improvement. I'll have to check into that more. Sounds like a fairly simple upgrade as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have a boneyard up here litter'd with Bmr's. I'll have to give them a try when its warmer. Like at least 25 degrees.
 

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I have an AFM off a running Milano 2.5 that I would be willing to sell. Let me know if you are interested. I have a Milano 2.5 ECU as well.

Edit: Can't find my spare 2.5 AFM, though I did find my spare 3.0 AFM...

Jes
 

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Discussion Starter #18
AR4me I will keep this in mind. Its a tad cold to be working on a dead car here in MN. I will let you know later. Can you PM me with a price anyways. thanks.
 

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Let me first see if I can find the spare 2.5 AFM I should have, somewhere...
Jes
 

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Jes, if you can't find yours I have two out in the garage. One from a Milano 2.5 and one from a GTV-6

Paul
 
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