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is it for trackday or racing? ans if you go racing, where and which class? if you figure that out, you can ask for the rules applied to your car and class of choice. FIA only permits cars build conform App. K (see website FIA) and that means that most of the time your car has to conform to the homologation. For a 1969 stepfront junior that means the right engine (so no 2000), and no Sloding Block or Watts.
As far as I know the Sliding Block is only homologated for GTA and GTAM.

Why Sliding Block? I think they wanted something nobody else had...

If I could choose: Watts... Cheaper, and on the road (for rally) I think better, though I understand it is possible to make slight changes to a SB so it behaves well on the road too.
Use the search option.

Alfaholics has a plug and play Watts for 105. Another supplier in the USA too (Performatek). Sliding Block: I think Heinbrand is the one to go to, € 2500,=, without cost for changing the diff. See also Romeo Racing - historischer Motorsport Markus Niestrath, builds GTAM`s in serie it seems.
 

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Saterday I was a passenger at the Alfaholics Trackday at Castle Combe in 2 cars with Watts. The grip the rear end gets seems endless! With the right setup almost unbeatable. i say Almost becaus Max ran his GTA replica with a new engine in, that car has no watts, but was the quickest. Now he nows the track with his eyes closed, and he has 20+ hp more...ok, but still..

For the best setup you really need in my opinion after driving several cars wit or without also the geometry kit from AH, and with the watts you will need to have the rear stabilizer too, so around 2000,- pounds parts,
but you get something back for it. Panhard : I have no experience, not really done in europe I think. Why should you with watts on hand...
 

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Panhard : I have no experience, not really done in europe I think. Why should you with watts on hand...
The reason to consider a panhard rod is simplicity. Theoretically, a watts is better, but practically I can't tell a difference. And yes, I have owned and raced cars with both!
 

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The reason to consider a panhard rod is simplicity. Theoretically, a watts is better, but practically I can't tell a difference. And yes, I have owned and raced cars with both!
After reading quite a few posts on this, would I be correct in thinking the following?

* The lowered roll center that a watts linkage or panhard rod offers can give a signifigant improvement to grip and handling if engineered and set up correctly.

* The watts link does have superior geometry, but the much simpler panhard rod will give 90-95% of the performance.

* A well set up standard rear end will be better than a poorly done watts/panhard.

I do have one question, does it make a noticeable improvement on a road car being driven on the road, or is it at the very bottom of the hierarchy of improvements one can make in terms of bang for buck?
 

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on a racer it brings, I have been told, around 2 sec (depending on the track). cheapest seconds you can probably get. For the road its a waste of money imho.fresh rubber all around and you are there, cmaber at the front, maybe powerflex in some places, not anymore needed.
 

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Richard Jemison
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Rear diff location

If the choice can be made, choose Watts linkage. It keeps the diff centered and roll center can be made adjustable.

Panhard location works fine if rod is LONG ands used on straight axle cars with parallel locating arms only.

I had a inquiry about cams from an individual who had bought a track-day Alfetta/GTV6 (deDion rear suspension) which had been modified by the previous owner to a panhard bar. I explained that that was both an UNSATISFACTORY and Dangerous mod, as the deDion triangle is mounted with a central pivot less than 3 feet in front of the rear tube and any movement up or down of the Panhard bar would dramatically change the thrust angle(straight ahead) of the rear axle. deDion assemblies as built by Alfa must have Watts linkage to work. Even my deDion on the GTR that has parallel upper & lower arms (no triangle) uses watts to prevent any side movement.
 

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If the choice can be made, choose Watts linkage. It keeps the diff centered and roll center can be made adjustable.

Panhard location works fine if rod is LONG ands used on straight axle cars with parallel locating arms only.

I had a inquiry about cams from an individual who had bought a track-day Alfetta/GTV6 (deDion rear suspension) which had been modified by the previous owner to a panhard bar. I explained that that was both an UNSATISFACTORY and Dangerous mod, as the deDion triangle is mounted with a central pivot less than 3 feet in front of the rear tube and any movement up or down of the Panhard bar would dramatically change the thrust angle(straight ahead) of the rear axle. deDion assemblies as built by Alfa must have Watts linkage to work. Even my deDion on the GTR that has parallel upper & lower arms (no triangle) uses watts to prevent any side movement.
why on earth would one change an alfetta to a panhard when there is a nice watts on the car already?
 

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Watts linkage is probably a good ultimate solution, but first up it's probably worth making sure that the rear end of the car is aligned properly and that all the bushes etc are in good shape before you go any further than that. Some people prefer to keep rubber bushes in the trailing arms, others go for the 'powerflex/superflex' style bushes but it seems to be horses for courses - depends a lot on the general road conditions you encounter I guess. Classic Alfa in the UK will shortly have a special locating arm available - watch the website for more news - which will be simpler and cheaper than a Watts linkage and easily reversible if you wish to remove it too.
 
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