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I restored mine completely ....disassembled, powder-coated the end brackets, zinc plated the gears and mechanism & machined new rivets in stainless steel....I detailed the work in this thread....starting on p.61 post#1212 through 1228....

 

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Discussion Starter #3
I read your post, very helpful!
I successfully removed chrome rivet On inner hinge.

couple questions
1: how is the smaller knob adjustment hinge Rivet (?) removed to disassemble springs , etc?
Doesn’t appear riveted but unsure.

2: what is the best estimate of what the original color was for these babies?
Were they always the same color?
Greeenish silver hammer finish on mine but decayed so difficult to be sure.

Tbone
 

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.....how is the smaller knob adjustment hinge Rivet (?) removed to disassemble springs , etc?
Doesn’t appear riveted but unsure.
I posted this step in the link provided....as well but worth repeating. The knob element attached to the rotating arm is secured with a csk head rivet & peened over a retaining washer inside the bore indicated in the photo below.You need to very carefully & accurately drill out the whole rivet (diameter of rivet is 11/64 or .171") on center with the existing rivet so as to minimize having to install a larger replacement rivet.

Inkedhiinge 035_LI.jpg hiinge 044.jpg hiinge 042.jpg

...what is the best estimate of what the original color was for these babies? Were they always the same color? Greenish silver hammer finish on mine but decayed so difficult to be sure.
The green tinge might be due to oxidation of copper elements in the original paint? I picked the closest powder coat hammertone finish that I could find...but it could have been a shade darker. Once you remove the lower fixed gear assembly by drilling out the 3 rivets, you should see the original unfaded paint color under that flange. If not powder coating......you should be able to get a close match silver hammertone rattle can paint at the big box store.


hiinge 012.jpg hiinge 013.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Resto update
Was able to remove chrome rivet for rechrome and potential re-rivet.
Also successfully drilled out spring and pivot retainer...I see a countersunk steel rivet is recommended, what’s the correct size. 1/4”?

I see custom rivets were fabricated for the gear plate, How did you buck the rivet?
Thinking quality blind rivet would work here too?

sending bits to Zinc plating Thursday (I’m a lousy plater! :))

found a nice Hammertone dark silver at the powder coasters shop. (I’m a lousy powder coated! :))

Installing windscreens while waiting, new Mygrant front green glass looks pretty descent.

cheers
Tbone
 

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.....I see a countersunk steel rivet is recommended, what’s the correct size. 1/4”?
see third photo I provided in post #4....rivet diameter is 11/64" ...an odd ball size hence the reason I machined a new one to the original spec.
..I see custom rivets were fabricated for the gear plate, How did you buck the rivet?
Not that difficult actually....the gear has convenient holes machined into it to allow a punch access...as does the main bracket itself...

1657659


..then it is easily peened ....

1657660


..Thinking quality blind rivet would work here too?
I don't recall the size now but if available....for sure.....a steel blind rivet (or monel would be OK).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
that would be a 4mm rivet by my calcs
I posted this step in the link provided....as well but worth repeating. The knob element attached to the rotating arm is secured with a csk head rivet & peened over a retaining washer inside the bore indicated in the photo below.You need to very carefully & accurately drill out the whole rivet (diameter of rivet is 11/64 or .171") on center with the existing rivet so as to minimize having to install a larger replacement rivet.

View attachment 1656830 View attachment 1656833 View attachment 1656831



The green tinge might be due to oxidation of copper elements in the original paint? I picked the closest powder coat hammertone finish that I could find...but it could have been a shade darker. Once you remove the lower fixed gear assembly by drilling out the 3 rivets, you should see the original unfaded paint color under that flange. If not powder coating......you should be able to get a close match silver hammertone rattle can paint at the big box store.


View attachment 1656828 View attachment 1656829
I have finally got the bits back and reassembled
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Could not have done it without Rosanno‘s 1750GT French Blue Restoration thread.

Is there a thread on reupholstering?
I see threads with pics but no details on the actual (and difficult) reupholstering of these Flying Butteress seats. I’m told there’s blind stitching involved!
Tbone
 

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OK...I recently went through this process.....using an upholstery kit that I believe I bought from CA (they buy from Italian supplier....possibly Esposito). Overall the kit is very good except that there will be areas where the vinyl will just not fit as nicely as it should and this is most likely due to the combination of foam deterioration/shrinkage and what the upholstery kit was based on itself. I can honestly say that this is one job to avoid for the DIY'er....see if you cand find a capable upholsterer and either have them make the upholstery from scratch....or bring them the kit. The work required just for making the upholstery might turn them off ....or if they're young they might like the challenge. Personally I will never...ever do a set of these myself again....it's a very challenging job, takes a lot time and extremely frustrating to try and get right....I actually had to redo mine a second time cause I didn't like the result the first time.

BTW......nice job on the hinges!
 
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