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I know this is a subject that probably has been beaten to death, but I just replaced the door gaskets/seals, and now I can't open the passenger door from the inside. It opens from the outside, but can't get it to budge from the inside. The door is a tad bit out of alignment, but if I adjust that, it would only compress the seal more. Any quick tips?

Thanks
 

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If you are done with the paint work silicone 3M 8897 or 8877. I left the outer strip off , never could get it to work.
 

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Other then using a used old gasket, the way I got them to work is to slice them with a razor blade so they compress. As far as I can tell, NO ONE makes proper GTV door gaskets.
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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I got mine from Max and they fit just right and were far eaiser to install than I thought they'd be.
 

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The door hinges and door latches are actually intended to be adjusted: they have considerable movement built into them for just that purpose. They can be adjusted (relatively) easily if you're careful. John/Laxman's Super had door closing problems which were solved by adjusting the hinges. The difference was (no pun intended :)) striking. Although they don't open and close quite as easily as my Super's doors with original gaskets, they work quite well, much better than before.
 

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I think the issue we are discussing is GTV door gaskets not supers. It's well known and often mentioned on this BB that the GTV always has a problem with new door gaskets.
 

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The problem most likely comes from not adjusting the hinges/latches. 105 cars have the same door hardware.
 

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Same door hardware... completely different gaskets.
Just do a search here for GTV door closing issues and you'll see many comments.
 

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I've read the threads. Adjust the doors. :)
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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just about any older car would need some adjustment with new door gaskets,
Adjust the doors.:)
 

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I've been playing around with this and looked at many posts, but most of them digressed into blaming the seal quality etc etc... I'd bought mine offshore, so good or bad (depending on forum opinion) they were what I had to use. So after cursing and shoving (just to get the doors to line up) I went scientific (or is it practical?) Here's my solution;
CHECK&ADJUST the ease of closure without any gaskets in place. Get this right first of all along with the panel matching. I had to file away some of the receiving plate where the striker plate had been rubbing for years. This had caused a lip that caught the striker plate and increased closing pressure. (I think I wore out my new hinges opening and closing the door)

Drill or nip a small hole in underside of the back of the seals - 1 for each edge (top bot sides). This will help release the air pressure inside the gasket when it compresses on door closure. (I think there was a factory bulletin on this)

Install the seals then shut the door. Any problems/stiffness/failure means then you have to find the tight spots on the seal.
Do this with a ribbon/strip of inner tube 25mm x 200mm long. (experiment with the ribbon material as the tube might be too 'grippy' on new seals). Fix a spring scale to the end of the tube, jam it between the door and seal at 200mm intervals then pull out slowly checking the amount of 'weight' (pull) required to remove it.
Mark these locations on the door frame and the removal 'weight' (masking tape strips)

Remove the seal bracket(s) (start with the 'heaviest' ones) and 'slot' the mounting holes to allow a bit of lateral movement. Do as many as you see fit. Replace them on the soft sealant bed ('Plumbers putty' but not a hardening compound or silicon type) and snug the screws up so they're just firm.
Repeat the pullout test around the door again and note the weights.

Now progressively tap the 'heavy' brackets inwards to achieve a uniform 'weight' around the door. Test the closure and keep adjusting
Tighten the bracket screws once happy.

I expect after awhile the gaskets will 'give' a bit so the door will be loose, so simply loosen the screws and tap the brackets out until a uniform weight is achieved again. (this is why the soft sealant is used)

That all said and done, I had to take everything off as other resto items needed to be done first.....GRrrrrr


Best of luck with the (sofar) most frustrating part of a resto
 

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I know I'm resurrecting an old post but this is the first where it makes absolute sense to me. Jonessjons idea is one I really like as I had thought of redrilling the mounting rail holes.
However, the bright trim around the door aperture stops it. A PO had them off and I'd like to put the seal mount right up against the body and then bright trim positioned afterwards but has anyone done this I wonder?
Also I loathe glues and sealers. Did Alfa use these on the seal mounting strip from the factory?

Now to ho out and try and bend my door into the right height before all that!
 

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Also I loathe glues and sealers. Did Alfa use these on the seal mounting strip from the factory?
The factory used strip caulking between the seal mounting channel and body to seal / fill in gaps and minimize metal-metal contact that could wear through the protective paint coating. If you plan to drive in wet weather, you will need to use use a product similar to this to prevent water intrusion into the interior:
 

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The factory used strip caulking between the seal mounting channel and body to seal / fill in gaps and minimize metal-metal contact
Well, if it was good for the factory its good for me. My strips have a hard rubber adhesive in spots about 250mm apart with a big gap under the channel. That eastwood strip looks good. I searched in Ireland for something similar for my door membranes without success. Thanks Ken for the link and clarification.
 
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