GTV-6 power window cable, replacement
As an update for other GTV-6 owners who have to go thru this arduous task, the window cable has been replaced, now, and it works very well, thank you, and I modified it for future longevity and, hopefully, trouble-free operation. Here are the specs, steps, and my obeservations on the install, after about 8 install-remove, change, alter, cycles.
1. Get a 2mm cable, galvanized steel, not stainless. I bought mine from a company, on the Net, called "----- Rigging.com", in the Chicago area. I bought 40 feet of cable, half is 2mm, non plastic coated, galvbanized steel, and 20 feet is 1.5mm, plastic coated, galvanized, (as an alternated back up). I used the non-coated for this job.
2. Though someone suggested the length to be 88.9", I found that to be too long for the GTV-6, (may be right for the Alfetta), and wound up at 86.5".
3. I found that the upper cable goes to the pully side that faces the inside of the car and the lower, (downward-pull) cable goes to the outside of the pulley.
4. The window heighth is 13.2", which is 3.03 turns on the spool, (1.5" x PI)= 4.7".
5. Wrap, counterclockwise, the cable onto the pulley, (inside edge), 3 turns, and put the end thru the hole, through the center, and secure with a stop. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the spool to hold the cable in place. Now, take the other end and, beginning 6 inches from the end, wrap, clockwise, starting at the pulley bottom, 1.5 turns, and thru the pulley, through the center, and secure with a stop. Now, wrap a piece of masking tape over that cable.
6. Take the lower pulley off of the door, (it makes it much easier); put the motor assembly back in place, with the gear and spool, and insert back into the door panel. Run the top cable over the top pulley and down through the clamp on the window. Put the lower pulley back in, guiding the cable onto it, and secure the clamp. removbe the tape. Now hand crank the window up and down a few times, to make sure that everything goes where it is supposed to go. The pulley/motor assembly can take out slack, or allow it, up to about 3/8". If you run into a continuing situation, like I did, where you either have too little slack, or too much, (due to where the pulley position is when you start), and don't want to do this again, you can create a a tensioner device, which I have now done, so that the slack is not as crucial, and I have about 3/4" of movement in the device, which just screws to the inner bottom panel of the door, ensuring that there is always tension on the cable. Good luck and write if I can be of help. Happy New Year! alfaron1,
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