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Discussion Starter #1
I had a plenty problems with my GTV 6.Gone so far that on the end I change ECU and got my car working normally.All sensors and vaacums were checked by Greg Gordons manual for L-Jetronic and everything was fine for some short period when another problem appeared.

After the rainy night I got up in the morning and sat in my GTV and turn the ignition and next thing happened.She started to idle un evenly working on 4,5 cilinders,than 5,6 cilinders and when I started to drive she start to spit black smoke from exhaust and not working on all 6 cilinders,and no power.Like she is gulping a noodle.I came back to a parking lot and started quick check.Start changing one by one.Another AFM nothing,pull out a cold start injector,not leaking,changing rotor and cap,measuring fuel pressure which was fine.All that couldn't help,and everything stayed as it was like I didn't touch anything at all.

Next day I was driving it to my frend mechanic and while I was driving it and while she got warmer and warmer she allowed me to drive her from 3000 rpm's on beggining to 5000 rpm's when she did get warm.The feeling is like you hit a rev limiter.With other words as she is getting more warmer she allows you more rpm's.

After a week or so she stayed in garage of my frend mechanic I decided to start her and she did start at a glance of a key.As she was working I would be pressing a gas pedal few times to see how she works and she did well until she reached 80 deegre of celzius and than problem.As you press the gas pedal feeling is like you pressing it into nothing because there is suddenly no reaction but if you keep presing the gas pedal than she starts to gulp a noodle and starts not to work on all 6 cilinders,no more normal idle running.She drops to 500 rpm's and when I start pressing pedal again she is gulping noodle again and when I remove my foot from a pedal she dies slowly to a stall.I didn't try to start the engine again because I was so sad and dissapointed so I just locked her up and sad goodbye.

Anybody had a scenario like this???
 

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that car is know for having rust and sandy debri in the fuel tank. Maybe your filter is getting plugged a bit and/or its affecting your fuel pressure regulator. You might want to consider maybe your fuel pump. when they get old, they sometimes work irregular. As your describing.
Here is how I check my fuel pressure. I remove the hose from the cold start valve. I unscrew my air compressor pressure gauge from the air compressor. It seems to fit in the fuel line very well. I clamp it and now i can watch my fuel pressure for testing purposes. Its very helpful to know that the problem is or isn't your pressure.
 

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I know when I start to gulp noodles too fast I start to stall! :D

I agree, I'd first verify your pressure regulator, fuel pump, and also your O2 sensor. Also, an injector air leak might cause it to run rich overall.

Was it black smoke or black spit, or both?

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #4
She is 1982. euro model without O2 sensor.
It was constant black smoke on pressing a gas pedal.Like a diesel car.Definitly running rich.
Fuel pressure is o.k.
This is situation when you hit a wall and have no ideas left.
Hopefully someone will enlight me :D.
If I don't smile I would definetly cry.
 

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If the fuel pressure is ok, then I'd verify the ECU's coolant temp sensor which may be giving a false low reading.
 

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If coolant sensor bad then probably won't run at all.

This sounds like an ecu problem. When you swapped ecu did you fond out why old ecu failed? Try swapping with known good ecu first before delving into more.
 

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If coolant sensor bad then probably won't run at all.
They can degrade such that they still are giving valid but inaccurate inputs to the ECU. Easy to verify in any case.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My opinion is that she is not temperature sensitive but weather sensitive meaning humidity on or after the rainy day or no humidity on sunny day.I'm betting on a spark plug cables but I will check the cables this week once my mechanic finds a little time for my cursed GTV 6.
Only thing which is much confusing is that from a beggining of my story that before she was working better after engine gets warm and now she is working worse after engine gets warm in a manner that she was not working on all six cilinders on beggining of my story and now.
 

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Since it seems to be related to humidity levels checking the plug and coil wires is a good idea. Also check the distributor cap carefully. With the age of these cars it is not a bad idea to just replace the cap and wires with new.
 

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Heat related faults can be due to bad solder joints. I had all sorts of strange problems that were the result of bad joints in the Bosch "Ignition Amplifier". It is the small sealed metal box located near the coil - a green wire goes from the distributor to it. Redoing the joints fixed a raft of intermittent problems.
 

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My GTV6 was pumping out smoke, running choppy just like yours. I spent 3 months trying to figure it out. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, wasn't it. I replaced the fuel pump, wasn't it. I adjusted everything I could, wasn't it. I replaced the combi relay, wasn't it. Rebuilt all the grounds too, wasn't it. I finally replaced the ecu, that was most of it. now i had power going to the combi relay which i didn't have before. I replaced the afm. didn't help alot but helped. Swapped out the injectors, wasn't it. The engine smoothed out after you reached 3000 rpms. but it would choke you to death idling. I never fixed it. But I did pull out the engine and put the engine in a Milano and it ran perfect. So in my opinion, there is something wrong with the electrical system, including ecu, afm, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My GTV6 was pumping out smoke, running choppy just like yours. I spent 3 months trying to figure it out. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, wasn't it. I replaced the fuel pump, wasn't it. I adjusted everything I could, wasn't it. I replaced the combi relay, wasn't it. Rebuilt all the grounds too, wasn't it. I finally replaced the ecu, that was most of it. now i had power going to the combi relay which i didn't have before. I replaced the afm. didn't help alot but helped. Swapped out the injectors, wasn't it. The engine smoothed out after you reached 3000 rpms. but it would choke you to death idling. I never fixed it. But I did pull out the engine and put the engine in a Milano and it ran perfect. So in my opinion, there is something wrong with the electrical system, including ecu, afm, etc.
krazymaan did you had a situation like this?
Today is a nice sunny day and she worked fine.I think there is some loose contacts or humidity in some electric circuits.I think there is going to be a long search for this Gremlin.Arghhhhh.I will keep you guys posted.
 

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If I might offer, the easiest and first thing one should do when these sorts of problems arise is to rigorously and thoroughly clean (with electronics spray cleaner), and lube (with dielectric grease) EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay.

These engine bays are very dirty areas, and the connections, as they come from the factory, have nothing to protect them from heat, dirt, water, and tarnishing except maybe for cheesy rubber boots which split or leak after a few years. This is known to be a problem with Alfas. May not cure the problem, but does give one a satisfying sense of having eliminated one source of electrical failure.

It can also help to have a copy of the workshop manual available, in order to study and follow the fault tree listings in the troubleshooting sections. Alfa has put a reasonable amount of study into these logical diagnosis charts, and I've found it can help to understand just how the engine reacts to different systems failures. For every Alfa I have ever owned, I have managed to own both the parts book and workshop manual. They have proven themselves to be invaluable through the years in understanding just what we have.
 

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...on the end I change ECU and got my car working normally.All sensors and vaacums were checked by Greg Gordons manual for L-Jetronic and everything was fine for some short period when another problem appeared.
OK. Now the most sensible reply>
Since it seems to be related to humidity levels checking the plug and coil wires is a good idea. Also check the distributor cap carefully. With the age of these cars it is not a bad idea to just replace the cap and wires with new.
Something I want to add. The GTV6's leak like sieves compared to Milano. This is due to the body being designed in the 70's and the problem seems to be primarily with the sunroof and front cowl drains. I would check to see if you're getting water leaking down the injector harness to the ECU. You say you replaced the ECU before. I hope you didn't destroy the boot that covers it. If so. buy or make another one. Hell, saran-wrap it if you have to, but trust me, the ECU in these cars needs an umbrella.
 

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I hope you didn't destroy the boot that covers it. If so. buy or make another one. Hell, saran-wrap it if you have to, but trust me, the ECU in these cars needs an umbrella.
I recently fixed *everything* on my gtv6. Someone had used electrical tape on the vinyl boot (umbrella) which protects the ECU in an attempt to seal it. This had caused it to become a trap for condensation. Moisture had built up under the boot and corroded the connector. Its good if the boot protects the ECU from falling moisture, not so good if it becomes a trap for condensation. Like with anything on cars, allowing things to breath a bit so they can dry out isn't such a bad idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Today I started her again.But today in the morning was a heavy rain and after the rain stopped I started her and let her to get warmed.No problems at all.Unbelievable :confused::confused::confused:.
I hope this saturday my mechanic and me are going to spare few hours time for her and to check few items.Hopefully.
 

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No, but like i said. I gave up after months. Pulled the engine and put it into my Milano. Had my fingers crossed. Fired up and ran perfect. Thats where I figure it has to be electrical. As in electrical from the car and not a problem with the actual engine.
 
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