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Discussion Starter #1
Here is couple of photos of my life time project.

























Is this correct forum for replica?:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Next project is to install sliding block assembly.
I have missing a couple parts.
Have anybody available parts 1 and 2 in photo?

 

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Very nicely done! How long did your project take from start to the point you are at now? And what's up with the hood propped so far open? Is it a cooling issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It is originally GTj1300. I have had it about 20 years now.
The first piture is from 2007. So the GTAm project has been running now four years.
The first step was body work, then TS engine, then GTA gearbox, then knuckle ricer, big front brakes, then GTA air intake box and lot of small steps.
Now I'm planing new suspension and sliding block assembly.

Hood is 'slightly' open because it looks nice and like a race car.
I hope, it helps cooling and reduces air under car.
 

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FIN- GTJ1300 -

I suppose this is a lifetime passtime trying to source all the parts etc.

Where did the bodywork come from and is it still available?

I have asked around in South Africa to no avail, have a similar plan so would appreciate any assistance,

Vaughan
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Which parts are you in need of exactly?
I forgotten the photo.:confused:
So parts 1 and 2 in photo is missing, rest parts I have.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
FIN- GTJ1300 -

I suppose this is a lifetime passtime trying to source all the parts etc.

Where did the bodywork come from and is it still available?

I have asked around in South Africa to no avail, have a similar plan so would appreciate any assistance,

Vaughan

I bought then from www.classicalfa.com and alfa-service.com have them to. Material is classfibre.
I have found some other source from internet too, but I don't remember places.
 

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Here they are!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here they are!
It seems that this is the original set, WAU. Unfortenately I have bought already replica set to my replica GTAm. My budjet is not made for original parts.
I thinks also that original set is better to save for original GTAm or GTA.
Is it possible buy only my missing parts? Or do you have more than only one set?

We can continue our discussion in PM side.

I have been thinking also Watt suport for rear axle, but your comment in some thread SB is the BEST support assembly and it is also the piece of art which has to have every GTA, GTAm or those replicas. You used different words, but idea was same. :)
 

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TAm fenders

Hallo Vaughan,
fenders are advertised in Italy for about 300 Euro and also GFK-hoods , pm if interested.

Uli
 

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One of the difficulties we had racing with sliding blocks was the insatable need for grease in the slider. The results when the slider locks up in the middle of a turn are waaaay past exciting. Today some of the racers have milled a cavity on each side of the bronze block, and inserted UHMW* plates of 5+ mm or so thickness in the recesses. You can make the block fit firmly in the slot by choosing the right thickness, and still get easy sliding. Make the recess deep enough to hold the plate in 'cause it won't stick to nutt'n.

Robert

* Ultra High Molecular Weight plastic - a super teflon-like material.
 

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It seems that this is the original set, WAU. Unfortenately I have bought already replica set to my replica GTAm. My budjet is not made for original parts.
I thinks also that original set is better to save for original GTAm or GTA.
Is it possible buy only my missing parts? Or do you have more than only one set?

We can continue our discussion in PM side.

I have been thinking also Watt suport for rear axle, but your comment in some thread SB is the BEST support assembly and it is also the piece of art which has to have every GTA, GTAm or those replicas. You used different words, but idea was same. :)
if building a time-correct replica please please take out the modern TS with ecu for the ignition.... since that engine is in, a watts won`t matter and is way cheaper ....imho...A watts is better engineered than the SB, its only for historic rules and in historic view on the real original cars that they are still there I think. If a watts would be legal for FIA, I think most drivers will change their cars to a watts. original cars not maybe, but most of the replica`s yes..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
if building a time-correct replica please please take out the modern TS with ecu for the ignition.... since that engine is in, a watts won`t matter and is way cheaper ....imho...A watts is better engineered than the SB, its only for historic rules and in historic view on the real original cars that they are still there I think. If a watts would be legal for FIA, I think most drivers will change their cars to a watts. original cars not maybe, but most of the replica`s yes..
You might be right of watt and SB, I don't know. I drive only for fun, not for world champion or not even local ones. I have most of SB parts, so I will install it some day, but when I don't know.:D
Yes, it is replica like it is mentioned in title, it will not be close of original and it will not be FIA legal.
Yes, engine is TS with carburetors, not mechanical Spica or Lucas. :(
Direct spark system without distributor and without 75 ecu. Where you get the idea, that there is 75 ecu or why should be because there is carburetors? :confused:
Time-correct engine for GTAm is has to find, if liked to made real replica of GTAm. Or has to have a little bit different budget than I have. My opion is that normal Nord engine is as far as TS engine from original GTAm engine.:rolleyes:
My GTAm replica body is also far from orginal GTAm, it is europe version not US version, which has to have if like to get real replica of GTAm.:rolleyes:

This is made for fun not, for Alfa purists.;):eek:
 

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sorry for the misunderstandings, but: I never said that there is a ecu from a 75 in your car... But even the direct spark has to be controled somehow, so how is it done then?
A TS will never be FIA legal, a 2 liter Nord engine however is.
And at present for replica GTAM`s it doesn`t matter which type is the basecar, only thing that matters is that it is build conform homologation form.
So you don`t have to use a 1750 anymore. In the time that you had to use a 1750, both the eu and the usa cars were OK.

But never mind all this, just have fun with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
My miss undestanding, Sorry.
There is direct spark system because GTAm mechanical distributors are expesive and ecu is more easier to adjust for my motor set up. Or at least thought when I choose that system. One idea was also to use face GTAm distributor and use modern capless ignition system with adjustable ecu. But anyhow it should be more fake-fake than my real-fake replica GTAm is.:)


I have use replica word becase it gives lot of excuse different sollutions than original or FIA legal or historic car gives.

May be I have choose wrong suport for read axle, but it is not big deal for my racing if it is good or not it wil be different that rest have. In my series has lot of moderns cars like for exhample 75 1.8 Tbo, Alfetta GTV, 155 2.0 Q4 Tbo, GT 3.2 V6, they are faster too.
75, 155, Alfetta sorry not so modern cars:ponly better drivers.:eek:
 
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