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Discussion Starter #501
My top two can be removed as they are located by a clip, see photo, but yes the bottom seem to be permanent and my (bottom) ones appear to be some sort of alloy (?). And no I have not removed the bottom ones. My top 2 are plastic

Pete
Thanks
I will investigate
 

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Discussion Starter #502
Pulley spigots removed.
Top two were released by drilling though inner door skin and into rivet head.
Bottom two were removed by filling off the rivet head. See pics.
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Spigots below - ready to be drilled/tapped. I will bolt them back in when the pulleys arrive next week.
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Clever solution, and yes your top two are different to mine.

I bet that last photo gives you the warm fuzzies. Beaut position to be in and **** good work. Next week I believe I will be able to purchase more MIG gas so hope to be at that stage soon, with my passenger door.

What are your seal channels like condition wise?
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #504
Thanks.
As soon as those pulleys come then I will be bonding the new skins on. Really happy with my progress last 10 days! ?
The upside of lockdown!
 

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Discussion Starter #506
Yeeha - got drivers side door skin on.
Really pleased with results. All the door on/off and hinge tweaking paid off as the skin went on nicely and fits really nice. Gaps all good.

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Discussion Starter #508 (Edited)
Passenger door awaiting seam folding. Held in location by some self-tappers along the top - to keep alignment good when folding seams with the hammer/dolly
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Discussion Starter #510
A point to note - where the door handle is pressed out in the replacement doorskin, the metal does bend in quite a bit around the hole. I’m guessing where it is punched and profiled it pushes the steel in.

So I spent about 10mins (before I fitted the doorskin to the door) with a hammer and Dollie bringing the metal back up level whilst I had access to it from both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter #511
Just a thought....I think I will cut a piece out of the upper part of the old doorskins and bond it inside the new skin - around the door handle a opening - to act as reinforcement and prevent any future stress crack issues.
It’s 20minutes to do now so why not?
 

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Not a silly idea. They are weak around the door handle opening.

Pete
 

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Just a thought....I think I will cut a piece out of the upper part of the old doorskins and bond it inside the new skin - around the door handle a opening - to act as reinforcement and prevent any future stress crack issues.
It’s 20minutes to do now so why not?
Great work as usual ?

Be careful when reinforcing the door handle area as it impedes with the installation and fitment of the handle itself. Make sure you have the handles on hand when modifying.
 

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Discussion Starter #514
Great work as usual ?

Be careful when reinforcing the door handle area as it impedes with the installation and fitment of the handle itself. Make sure you have the handles on hand when modifying.
Good thinking batman!
 

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Discussion Starter #515
Ok we are moving backwards now to the rear wheel wells.
Pretty rotten and badly batched. D9348037-7853-4C1E-815A-5C98F483CEAA.jpeg
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Discussion Starter #516
First step was to cut out rusted/patched panel under the rear seat. Made a new panel using an air planishing hammer (cost about £50) and happy how it came out. Took an hour or so but managed to get the curve really close. A bit of hammer and dolly got it pretty much accurate for welding in.
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Yes, good investment that tool!
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #520
Now to the under wheel arch area.
It was bad patch over rusty steel, that was in turn covering a rusty piece of steel.......kind of like peeling a rusty onion!

The area around spring seat done.
The strap mount area has all been cut out ready for another day.
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