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I've got a clicking noise from the glove box area on my black 1991 164S with the key on and the head lights on. No noise when the head light switch is off. Also, recently the chime continues when the key is removed and continues until the drivers door is shut. I swapped out N22, no change, but it felt like the clicking was coming from N44, so I swapped that out this morning again no change. With the head light switch off, the turn signals work normally. However, with the headlights on, the right turn clicks much faster than the left.
 

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1.Sounds you got cross-talk in one of the 1157 dual a bulb sockets in R/F light or R/R taillight.

N22 circuit still suspect for clicking noise under glove box

As for door chime possibly the 60534044 N57 key buzzer diode in radio and antenna system is bad or missing. If car is a 91 it should have diode. Factory bulletin 40.92.03 pertains to 92 models only but I have had two 93 models missing diode and door chime dinged whenever key out and door open.

Another idea is door closed icon on dash out/on when door shut?

Door buzzer circuit ground wire from N22 pin 12 connector A goes from radio relay pin 85 and then through key buzzer micro-switch in ignition switch to chassis GROUND. Does radio stay on with key on/off but key still in switch? Does buzzer stop if you disconnect the 2-wire buzzer wire going to ignition switch?

See buzzer pg 110 and radio pg 639 in wiring diagrams.
 

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1.Sounds you got cross-talk in one of the 1157 dual a bulb sockets in R/F light or R/R taillight.

N22 circuit still suspect for clicking noise under glove box

As for door chime possibly the 60534044 N57 key buzzer diode in radio and antenna system is bad or missing. If car is a 91 it should have diode. Factory bulletin 40.92.03 pertains to 92 models only but I have had two 93 models missing diode and door chime dinged whenever key out and door open.

Another idea is door closed icon on dash out/on when door shut?

Door buzzer circuit ground wire from N22 pin 12 connector A goes from radio relay pin 85 and then through key buzzer micro-switch in ignition switch to chassis GROUND. Does radio stay on with key on/off but key still in switch? Does buzzer stop if you disconnect the 2-wire buzzer wire going to ignition switch?

See buzzer pg 110 and radio pg 639 in wiring diagrams.
Good Evening Steve,

Slowly getting my '91 164 up to speed. I too have the Clickity Click coming from under the glove box when I turn on the headlights. I also have a left blinker that is going quicker than the right.

I am looking to replace N22 and make sure that 1157 bulbs are in all sockets.. correct?
Any help would me most appreciated.

Than you

John
 

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Good Evening Steve,

Slowly getting my '91 164 up to speed. I too have the Clickity Click coming from under the glove box when I turn on the headlights. I also have a left blinker that is going quicker than the right.

I am looking to replace N22 and make sure that 1157 bulbs are in all sockets.. correct?
Any help would me most appreciated.

Than you

John
Probably, Try unplugging and reconnecting connectors to N22 and rear lamp control unit located left of N22.

Check that all four 1157 bulbs in rear tail lights work if both front turn signal bulbs working.
 

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Probably, Try unplugging and reconnecting connectors to N22 and rear lamp control unit located left of N22.

Check that all four 1157 bulbs in rear tail lights work if both front turn signal bulbs working.
Thank you so much!!! Will be warming up the garage here in N. Michigan and do as instructed.
 

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Thank you so much!!! Will be warming up the garage here in N. Michigan and do as instructed.
so, I checked the tail lights all bulbs are 1157 and when I switched them from the driver side tail tail light to the passenger side tail light the bulb worked. So the problem lies with the second bulb on the driver side left to right.
I also looked under the glove box and the buzzing, clicking sound is coming not from the ARCU, but just to the left of it, under the courtesy light.
Any thoughts?
 

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so, I checked the tail lights all bulbs are 1157 and when I switched them from the driver side tail tail light to the passenger side tail light the bulb worked. So the problem lies with the second bulb on the driver side left to right.
I also looked under the glove box and the buzzing, clicking sound is coming not from the ARCU, but just to the left of it, under the courtesy light.
Any thoughts?
That is N44 rear light control unit (RLCU). Try to fix bad rear tail light bulb/wiring/socket issue and see if clicking goes away. Wiring on driver's side LHD is light blue-red to both bulbs. If one of the two left bulbs work and you have good bulbs check both light blue-red and black wire terminals in connector to that tail light assembly.
 

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That is N44 rear light control unit (RLCU). Try to fix bad rear tail light bulb/wiring/socket issue and see if clicking goes away. Wiring on driver's side LHD is light blue-red to both bulbs. If one of the two left bulbs work and you have good bulbs check both light blue-red and black wire terminals in connector to that tail light assembly.
Thank you!!! Yellow wire was corroded...Both bulbs in the LHD Tail Light assembly are now working. Still flashing double time compared to the RHD. I noticed the Front Left Turn signal has moisture inside the glass and the bulb is not as bright. In order to get to that bulb, do I need to take out the Headlight assembly?

I cannot thank you enough
 

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Thank you!!! Yellow wire was corroded...Both bulbs in the LHD Tail Light assembly are now working. Still flashing double time compared to the RHD. I noticed the Front Left Turn signal has moisture inside the glass and the bulb is not as bright. In order to get to that bulb, do I need to take out the Headlight assembly?

I cannot thank you enough
Thank you!!! Yellow wire was corroded...Both bulbs in the LHD Tail Light assembly are now working. Still flashing double time compared to the RHD. I noticed the Front Left Turn signal has moisture inside the glass and the bulb is not as bright. In order to get to that bulb, do I need to take out the Headlight assembly?

I cannot thank you enough
Do you have USA spec Carello head lights? If so you should be able to move back rubber flap over headlight and access area behind parking/turn light assembly and squeeze plastic latching levers above and below bulb socket hole and push P/T light assembly forward and out of fender to access bulb holder. You might be able to twist and remove bulb holder from the back with P/T light assembly left in headlight and fender.
 

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Do you have USA spec Carello head lights? If so you should be able to move back rubber flap over headlight and access area behind parking/turn light assembly and squeeze plastic latching levers above and below bulb socket hole and push P/T light assembly forward and out of fender to access bulb holder. You might be able to twist and remove bulb holder from the back with P/T light assembly left in headlight and fender.
Alfisto Steve!!!!
Again, thank you. Removed the LH turn signal assembly...bulb wasn't sitting in well. Replaced it with an 1157 and it is blinking at a normal rate and above all, the clicking sound under the glove box is GONE!!!!!
YOU DA MAN!!!!
 

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Alfisto Steve!!!!
Again, thank you. Removed the LH turn signal assembly...bulb wasn't sitting in well. Replaced it with an 1157 and it is blinking at a normal rate and above all, the clicking sound under the glove box is GONE!!!!!
YOU DA MAN!!!!
You are welcome. Glad you were able to solve the problems.
 

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Steve had it correct, as with turn signals flashing at basically double rate, the problem is one bulb in that two bulb circuit not connected. Since the flashing rate seems to be based on total circuit resistance, and with one of two bulbs not connected and offering a certain level of filament resistance, the flashing rate will become something like ~double.
 
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