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Discussion Starter #1
My shaft is toast, the spline section is worn silly.

I want a good one - somebody already sold me another trashed unit, which cost me dearly to rebuild - and it still didn't work out!

Please send me an email or PM via the Alfa BB site.

Thanks much!

Dennis
San Diego, CA
 

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I don't have one, but are wanting the front section or the rear?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Since my spline section is worn, I don't know which half is at fault...is probably both. I'd like to get a COMPLETE shaft, with both sections that can be mated and verified to not have spline slop.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I understand that 1750 and 2000 Berlina has the same length driveshaft as the Giulia Super, if anybody can please verify that for me...
 

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Actually they are different. Berlina is longer but the rear half of the shaft might be the same I think.
 

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You need to combine the front of a GTV shaft with a rear shaft from a Berlina and you got yourself a Giulia Super driveshaft other than the need for 9mm bolts for the differential - need to drill out holes on the diff. Or I guess you could change the yoke but be carful early and late ones have different u-joints.

New replacement shafts are available from suppliers in Europe.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Allegrita: Thanks for that information! I am aware of the 8 vs 9 mm bolt issue back at the diff, but didn't know how the lengths of the Super shafts compared to Berlinas, GTVs etc. You finally cleared that up for me.

Unfortunately, new shafts are not available from US suppliers. Shipping from EU would be very, very expensive due to weight. I'm left with sorting through bits and pieces available here, and hoping for a good one. I've already had a bad experience after somebody sold me a shaft that was not original, but had been modified and wasn't timed and balanced correctly. It had to be totally rebuilt, and even then, it is not running very well. The splines are worn and I've got vibrations between 65 - 75 mph.
 

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Try to find the best spline possible and the best driveshaft rebuilder possible and get it balanced.

Re: replacement shaft - so you don't feel too bad about your experience. I got a new one out of Europe. The shipping was actually not so bad. However, the new replacement shaft I got, had really bad runout, so it had to be rebuilt and balanced ... it's butter smooth now after throwing a s___load of $$$ at it.

Allegrita: Thanks for that information! I am aware of the 8 vs 9 mm bolt issue back at the diff, but didn't know how the lengths of the Super shafts compared to Berlinas, GTVs etc. You finally cleared that up for me.

Unfortunately, new shafts are not available from US suppliers. Shipping from EU would be very, very expensive due to weight. I'm left with sorting through bits and pieces available here, and hoping for a good one. I've already had a bad experience after somebody sold me a shaft that was not original, but had been modified and wasn't timed and balanced correctly. It had to be totally rebuilt, and even then, it is not running very well. The splines are worn and I've got vibrations between 65 - 75 mph.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Allegrita: I have two questions for you: 1) At the very rear of the shaft, the yoke mates with a flange on the differential input shaft. Alfa shop manual says when the shaft comes out, you are supposed to mark orientation for how these two items mate. Is this interface keyed so it can mate every 180 degrees, or every 90 since there are 4 bolts? Since my shaft is not the original one, how do I know if this is mated properly, and should it make a difference anyway?

2) The center carrier bearing is surrounded by a rubber support. There are two studs that project down from the chassis and a strap goes over those studs to hold the rubber support up in place. According to drive shaft geometry, the height of that carrier bearing is rather critical, just 5 degrees out and the shaft will vibrate. I noticed on my car that when the strap is bolted on as far up as it will go, I can still lift the center carrier bearing up towards the chassis about 10-15 mm. In other words, the strap bracket is not holding the surround tightly in place as high as it will go. Gravity is what positions the center carrier bearing and surround.

My car came to me as a basket case...lots of stuff disassembled, many parts missing, etc., so I'm never quite sure if it has been reassembled properly. Does your center carrier rubber get held firmly in place, or can you push it up into the top of its "saddle" as I can do? I'm begining to think that my strap bracket is not the proper one, or that there was an additional rubber block sandwiched between the bracket and the center carrier rubber, forcing the entire thing up as high up into the "saddle" as it will go.

Perhaps these issues mentioned are the source of my driveshaft vibrations?
 

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If I remember correctly the 4 bolts on the diff and output yoke are in a rectangular rather than square pattern. So, I believe it goes in 180 degrees - but I have to make sure and look.

Re: the rubber support I have to look. I have the old style on one car and the newer style on another car.

Anyway, if you have vibrations, also check the bronze bushing in the nose of the driveshaft, as well as for wear on the transmission output shaft.

Allegrita: I have two questions for you: 1) At the very rear of the shaft, the yoke mates with a flange on the differential input shaft. Alfa shop manual says when the shaft comes out, you are supposed to mark orientation for how these two items mate. Is this interface keyed so it can mate every 180 degrees, or every 90 since there are 4 bolts? Since my shaft is not the original one, how do I know if this is mated properly, and should it make a difference anyway?

2) The center carrier bearing is surrounded by a rubber support. There are two studs that project down from the chassis and a strap goes over those studs to hold the rubber support up in place. According to drive shaft geometry, the height of that carrier bearing is rather critical, just 5 degrees out and the shaft will vibrate. I noticed on my car that when the strap is bolted on as far up as it will go, I can still lift the center carrier bearing up towards the chassis about 10-15 mm. In other words, the strap bracket is not holding the surround tightly in place as high as it will go. Gravity is what positions the center carrier bearing and surround.

My car came to me as a basket case...lots of stuff disassembled, many parts missing, etc., so I'm never quite sure if it has been reassembled properly. Does your center carrier rubber get held firmly in place, or can you push it up into the top of its "saddle" as I can do? I'm begining to think that my strap bracket is not the proper one, or that there was an additional rubber block sandwiched between the bracket and the center carrier rubber, forcing the entire thing up as high up into the "saddle" as it will go.

Perhaps these issues mentioned are the source of my driveshaft vibrations?
 
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