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Erm, I won't point out all the gear teeth whirling away in there then.
You cannot do anything about the frothing from the gear teeth but you can avoid making it worse by drilling holes in the gears. You did the right thing.
 

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RJ, I have a question. Have you ever done anything to lighten the gears of the counter shaft? I know the gear clusters on each end are removable, but it isn't obvious there is enough access to work on them.

Robert
 

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aren't those holes blocked by the dog ring hardware, other gears in stack and all the other bs on the shafts? can not imagine them getting much direct exposure to the oil.
 

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RJ, I have a question. Have you ever done anything to lighten the gears of the counter shaft? I know the gear clusters on each end are removable, but it isn't obvious there is enough access to work on them.

Robert
I had intentions to remove mass from the shaft and both sides of both gears but no longer have access to the machines I was using. It's simple with the right tooling.
 

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General Rebuild

Since this thread has been going on for more than a decade, some of the information is now out of date. Reading from the beginning, years ago there was a recommendation that Merrit Carden in Newark, CA (Bay Area) was the man to go to. Called him last week, only to learn that he doesn't do that kind of work any longer.

Any - more current - recommendations on where I can get a gearbox rebuild in California, not entirely stock, but who is willing to incorporate some more durable components?

Thanks much.
 

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Richard Jemison
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Lightening countershaft

If you remove the cluster gear tou can lighten the 2nd gear and reduce the diameter of the layshaft between 1st & 2nd. (? why? to small a radius to have any effect. Same with the old gun-drilled shafts)

With the 3/4 cluster gear off you can lighten both sides of those gears.

Keep in mind that all lightening has really little effect and any real shifting improvement is due to changed syncros.

The real improvement in shifting comes from using a light clutch disk with no torque spring or marcel spring under the friction material. The clutch disk is the syncro killer. Pucks are heavy, best torque handling is with a common organic lining bonded and riveted to the light plate. Releases cleanly unlike those with marcel springs under the friction material.
Easy to drive with no grabbing.
 

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The real improvement in shifting comes from using a light no torque spring or marcel spring under the friction material. The clutch disk is the syncro killer. Pucks are heavy, best torque handling is with a common organic lining bonded and riveted to the light plate. Releases cleanly unlike those with marcel springs under the friction material.
Easy to drive with no grabbing.
That is also my experience of driving that type of clutch on my Spider since 2008 and on my GTV6 since 2014.
 

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The trick now is FINDING such a clutch disk.
I followed links to a company that ALMOST makes them.
Except that their disc plate is steel and they do use the marcel springs.
Richard no longer makes them either.
So the only out may be to take the center drive spline from a conventional disc, make the aluminum plate, and have a local shop fit the lining.
On my to-do list, a LONG list.
A drawing of the disc would be helpful if anyone has one, I do have a CNC mill to cut and drill them with.

Even if this comes to pass I still want to lighten my gears as I believe that less mass can only help so long as the part is not overly weakened.
 

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IMHO

I believe the gear lighting etc, was to keep power to weight ratios for FIA sanctioned GTA'S..having skimmed through this thread the most bang for the buck is a lightened flywheel , run synthetic , my preference is Redline 75/90
 

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Richard Jemison
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Oil for trans

Redline 75/90
That`s a bad choice. Redline 75-90 NS is the only one to use! I`ve posted pic of the label where it shows it`s appropriate for Alfa, Porsche etc applications with the Porsche design balk-ring syncro design.
 

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Richard,

Is the Redline 70/90 NS appropriate for a limited slip differential also, or is the standard 70/90 the right choice?

Thanks

Robert
 
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