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Below is link to a ram clutch project I did for my milano. Note how the clutch disc is only 17.8 oz. I had more details here on alfabb but I dont see that thread any longer. I will add caution about solid discs. I shattered the spider gears once when my foot slipped off a wet clutch pedal! Lightened gears held up well contrary to what I would have expected. ALFAGTV6.COM ~ View topic - Clutches
 

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Richard Jemison
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Solid clutch

Well, I don`t think the solid clutch should be blamed on your driver error. After all there was a rubber guibo after the transmission. The rear assembly would not survive this brutal engagement even with a sprung disk.

Looked at your site. If you havent resolved your clutch issues I will give you a bit of advice. First the Milano/GTV6 clutch cover is not designed to take pressure applied from the rear. The bearing retainer is modified for the pull clutch. The pressure from the rear is contained only by the front snap ring in a very thin magnesium housing. The solution is the late Alfetta one.
Luckily the Quartermaster has release fingers with tips that turn out unlike AP or Tilton. This allows "SOME" use of improper fit release bearing surfaces.
For all my 5.5 inch (Tilton, Quartermaster, AP etc) race clutches for the transaxle cars, my flywheels were made to different thickness specifications depending on the number of plates which determined the height of the pressure plate cover. I did this to allow use of the Alfetta stock cover, slave cylinder, release arm (and its pivot ball) along with a modified Alfetta release bearing, with reduced dia. contact diameter. (still have a few)
I was concerned with your bolted on centers. These should be press riveted so that they expand into full contact with the components. Bolts willloosen up.

Your conversion was a good idea, but could be much lighter, and the syncros are still dealing with more mass than they need with the springs. Use of the spring hubs limit you to a single disk design with the racing clutches. For 4 cyl. RACE application 5.5 inch single plates are good for 350 lb ft torque which is a bit past adequate. They will not take the slipping of street use, and neither will the 7.25 units.
I would never see the need for sprung disk, in the transaxle cars even with my one piece driveshafts. I guess that the 3 rubber giubos are not enough your driving style??;)

The simple converston to a light Aluminum standard disk with a lightened flywheel is a very economical trip to great shifting & better engine response.
(depending on area about $350.00 for all machine work, balancing & disk)

Bet your setup cost a bit more! So did my 5.5 units. But for the average Alfa driver this is the logical modification....:p What did you do with the front flywheel?
 

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Actually there are two different solutions on that link. Mine is the second solid 4 puck solution with riveted hub and red Ram cover. At 17.8 oz the 4 puck disk is pretty light. The glued on friction material also reduced rotational inertia. Its held up well so far.

Your right about the push issue. I had to make a longer spacer between inner races to be sure push force was transmitted to the outer bearing. I really your floater plate unit wich eliminates the need for steel insert in my design. The clutch parts were about $500 then add in a heck of a lot of time and some metal.

I agree about the rubber squishys providing shock protection. I was really surprised the spider gears cracked especially since the v6 diff has 4! Dont do burnouts or other silly stuff either. That one slip was pretty intense though.

About the engine flywheel Ive done nothing yet! I wanted to build a motor and do it at the same time but its taking too long. Ive seen some interesting solutions, like grafting on a flexplate. I do have some concerns about v6 flywheel balancing which is one reason I havent yet tackled it. What did you do about the engine flywheel?

-TomP.
 

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Richard Jemison
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Gear Lightening - Continue the Thread

I've been considering doing a gear weight reduction since I drove Murray's Black Spider at the Detroit National Convention. His Transmission "Shifts like Butter".

I've been doing a bit of work to prepare a few gear sets for the work and hope you guys can give me any guidance on the size, spacing, amount of removal I should under take. I like your ideas.

Take a look.....

Bud Feigel
Lexington, Ky.
 

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Here's a little bit better pic of the gears. If I can get these right, I should be able to take a box of gears and my drawings to a machine shop and get it done. I've already mastered the art of removing the dog rings.
 

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Any thoughts out there about a light weight close ratio set like the one alfaholics sells.

Mucho denero but is it worth it for a fast street/track day car? I have never driven an alfa with close ratios before so immagine the combo of light weight set and close ratios would be an impressive difference
 

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Richard Jemison
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Light close ratio gearbox available

I have one close rario gearbox with lightened gears, all syncros replaced, bearings replaced, assembled. 3.0/1.85/1.25/1.00/.92
Email for pics. $2,500.00
 

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this is why i went to useing a wc t5 transmission, in my 84 spider.. carbon syncos' no grinding. and a 'modern' gearbox.it's from a 1999 mustang v6.ratios 3.35 / 1.93 / 1.29 / 1.00/ .72 , can handle up to 265 ft/lbs torque.. overkill for a spider.. but it will cost 100-150 more for a new driveshaft, and 50.00 for the maching to get the t5 input shaft down to alfa size, still useing the alfa pressure plate and t/o bearing, but a ford friction disk..and jsut a little work to the adapter from the alfa bellhousing to the t5 box... and oh yes the t5 box is easy to take apart, just snap ring plyers..and cheap parts for it..not like the alfa prices for gears. sycno's.. bearing..take a look at t5 part prices..nice :):)
 

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a v8 t5 mustang box carries 2.95 / 1.94 / 1.34 / 1.00 / .83, if you want or .63 or .68... i just got lucky and bought my t5 from a local u-pull-it/ that took ove american river auto wreckers here in sacramento,, so the box was pulled allready, cost my 150.00 for the wc t5..
 

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Here's a little bit better pic of the gears. If I can get these right, I should be able to take a box of gears and my drawings to a machine shop and get it done. I've already mastered the art of removing the dog rings.
Sorry for wakening this old thread - but is there anyone who has these CAD-files of the gears and their cross drilled holes and undercutting?
 

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a v8 t5 mustang box carries 2.95 / 1.94 / 1.34 / 1.00 / .83, if you want or .63 or .68... i just got lucky and bought my t5 from a local u-pull-it/ that took ove american river auto wreckers here in sacramento,, so the box was pulled allready, cost my 150.00 for the wc t5..
How much does the T5 box weigh?

Paul
 
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