Remove the three bolts holding the intermediate shaft at the bearing and motor mount bracket, then slide it out of the way. You don't want to have to align more than one set of splines at a time.
I swear we must have 164 ESP sometimes. I just wrote Rob the same thing in a PM. Rob adding to my PM the following now: Removing the three 10mm hex head bolts from rear engine mount that hold the IM shaft bearing retainer will allow IM shaft to be moved.Remove the three bolts holding the intermediate shaft at the bearing and motor mount bracket, then slide it out of the way. You don't want to have to align more than one set of splines at a time.
I'm hoping the chattering will go away with driving. The oils/crud that may have seeped in there should burn off (correct me if I'm wrong).Rob,
The stock mounts work real well when in good shape. If you decide the fix the clutch, you don't have to remove the transaxle all the way. Good luck
I'd be worried about washing the grease off the bearing retainer. At this point, it sounds like it may be "burning off" enough to be acceptable for regular use. All things considered, I think I'd be inclined to leave it alone - it seems unlikely to me that it would now reverse course and get worse.Any problems with using brakleen or similar through the access hole at the top of the trans?
and it generally costs only about $100. You might find one for less somewhere. Or a good shop can replace the friction material from your last one if you didn't trash it yet. I used to have friction material replaced on the clutches of a small crawler tractor at a shop in Oakland, CA.The clutch has less than 10K miles on it - it would be extremely disheartening to have to replace such a new clutch (and I'm talking entire assembly).
I did use some brakleen while the car was running (with my sister engaging/disengaging the clutch) to wash some of the grease off.I'd be worried about washing the grease off the bearing retainer. At this point, it sounds like it may be "burning off" enough to be acceptable for regular use. All things considered, I think I'd be inclined to leave it alone - it seems unlikely to me that it would now reverse course and get worse.
I have since done what you've described here (I had run out of cleaner previously).Think about it this way and see if it makes sense: what will happen if you saturate the disc with brakleen/etc? It gets wet and the oil dissolves into the liquid. Then start the car and let the liquid 'spin out' like in a washing machine spin cycle. The oil goes to the inside of the bell housing with the liquid. The brake cleaner evaporates. If you dribble brake cleaner onto a running clutch, you won't get much (if any) down beyond the outermost edge of the disc. You want to cover the full pad, so you'd best dribble cleaner onto the disc while it's static but not clamped by the pressure plate. Then after putting enough solvent onto the friction material and before it evaporates, start spinning the clutch assembly. There are wear indicator channels on it, so it probably doesn't really matter whether you engage/disengage the clutch while trying to spin the solvent out of the clutch. Just my take on things from the little I know.
I mentioned the wear channels (wear indicator grooves, or whatever) only as places for the liquid to exit the core area of the clutch disc. You want to cover the friction disc with liquid. The liquid penetrates the porous material and dissolves oils from it. Maybe not completely, but this is what it does in general. The friction disc is attached to the transmission input shaft, so it rotates with the transmission.
If you want to lock the clutch pedal in place with a broomstick or use a tool to move the clutch fork actuator and hold it open (with the engine off) then you could put the transmission in gear and have a buddy rotate the clutch plate by rotating a road wheel while you dribble solvent on the disc. You won't be able to spin it fast enough by hand to prevent the liquid penetrating across the whole friction material surface. Then when you're done drooling solvent on it, back off and one of you then turns on the engine to spin the remaining solvent out to the bell housing. If you let it evaporate on the disc, then the oil stays there. If you sling it off, then the dissolved oil goes with it. If you take the bottom cover (flywheel cover) off the bell housing, you might be able to spritz solvent into the appropriate area better. I don't know just now. I do know that this cover if missing allows dirt and grit into the area between flywheel and disc. You don't want to leave it off as happened on our family's '93L. The gritty paste formed by a low level oil leak wore the flywheel side of the disc materlal in short order, leaving the other side little worn. New disc required, discovered when R&Ring tranny input bearing a year ago.
Just suggestions for a marginal treatment of a difficult situation. The Proper Thing To Do is to replace the disc. But, it just might not be absolutely necessary. And, by the way, this won't remove "grit," but only soluble oils on the disc material. Grit is another issue entirely. When slinging the solvent off the disc, you want it to be rotating. Because of the wear channels, the solvent should still be able to migrate out with the clutch engaged. It shouldn't be necessary to disengage the clutch. Neutral should work just fine, as the disc will be spinning.