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My two cents worth: Be sure if you go UPS it is packed in a sturdy box with solid bottom such as a piece of 1/4" plywood with tranny cushioned good on plywood and strapped to wood with fiber glass tape. Be sure there is an over weight STICKER on BOX. Over 80 lb. is considered overweight as I remember.

I went through a 6 month claim adjustment with auto recycler over a tranny in a plain cardboard box that somebody dropped before I got it (maybe UPS) as differential case was hanging out of box and it was cracked and two teeth were busted off 1-2-reverse slider and 1 tooth off reverse idler.

I finally got another tranny which I also had to rebuild for other problems and even though I got to keep original busted up I had to end up welding differential case, replacing 1-2-R slider and reverse idler gear. Cost of parts and welding was almost as much as I paid for first tranny so I didn't really get two for the price of one.
 

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FWIW, about 2 years ago I shipped a ~150 lb Verde Transaxle via Fedex Freight, and had no issues at all. Just strapped it down to a pallet and they were happy to pick it up and be on their way. No fuss, no muss. Cost was about $150 IIRC.
 

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I would only Use UPS.
I double all my boxes usually have at least 4-5 layers of cardboard on the bottom 2 layers on the side is fine. You can use wood but I have shipped a few transmissions without damage this way. Wood or tons of hard cardboard will do the trick, of course a pallet is the best but you have to drop off and most of the time these days they want it boxed up anyway, probably why Lenard has not sent it.
Some may not go through the trouble for a $250 and I think this way works well.
No need for straps if you use good tape and strong boxes. Also a "DO NOT DROP" and "DOLLY ONLY" markings helps.

I always use a ton of cardboard, Styrofoam or whatever on hand to keep the transmission from moving.

There are many ways to skin a cat.

Just thought this was an easy route for Lenard to get it out. As long as it is packed well it will make it fine. The weight alone will call for a dolly. He can have it picked up at his shop or house. Most of the time you need to be creative with it.


Jason
 

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2015 Chevy (Holden) SS, 1989 Milano (Shankle Sport), 1991 164S
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Be sure to check other carriers such as DHL, Greyhound, etc before shipping on "Oops". I've never had a lot of luck with them myself. Once took 4 days to get an overnight high priority shipment. No apologies, no nothing
 

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Greyhound has a 100 lb limit.
Charles
 

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Yep, works real well for a large item that doesn't weight too much, cheap too. But for super heavy, or trannies, not so well, or they wont do it at all, as in this case.
Charles
 

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I'd second DPDISXR4Ti's (Brad) opinion on such things. FedEx Ground has worked great for me for heavier things than UPS wants to carry. I've never had goods arrive damaged. Greyhound does have a weight limit, as their drivers and other staff are the ones handling the stuff and they don't always have lift assistance. Back before UPS and FedEx, my Dad used to get lots of stuff quickly from Memphis, TN, to eastern Arkansas via Greyhound, too.

I sympathize with your plight. It's not great having delays on getting your ride back up while being a student. I was a grad student with one car (plus a wife, in bicycleable Berkeley, CA) and having the car down was even then an inconvenience.

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the suggestions - I checked a UPS store and they wanted $177! That sounds WAY too expensive - even if it's just "an estimate."
FedEx wanted a similar amount. This is frustrating because Jason shared that he's shipped units like this (boxed, taped, etc. already) for around $80 (correct me if I'm wrong Jason) through UPS.
Any other numbers people want to share for shipping? Both weight and price would be great.
 

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Thanks for all the suggestions - I checked a UPS store and they wanted $177! That sounds WAY too expensive - even if it's just "an estimate."
FedEx wanted a similar amount. This is frustrating because Jason shared that he's shipped units like this (boxed, taped, etc. already) for around $80 (correct me if I'm wrong Jason) through UPS.
Any other numbers people want to share for shipping? Both weight and price would be great.
Nope that is wrong, I get 112.30 for shipping from Sacramento (94203) to You (48198).
24X24X35 box @100lbs in a 24X24X24 box it = $67.03
@125lbs = $124.30 24X24X24 box = $83.20
All calculated on Worldship software


UPS. I had way way too many problems with FEDEX. I have had over 10 claims with them in the past for damaged product. I have never had a single issue with UPS. They really have this game down.
DHL is not very good IMO either.

Like I have mentioned a doubled box with a sufficient bottom to protect the transmission will be fine. I have done it this way for years and not a single issue.

Better, cheaper and easier than a pallet.
Just helping. I do this all day. ;)

BTW I know he will send it
Jason
 

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Thanks for all the suggestions - I checked a UPS store and they wanted $177! That sounds WAY too expensive - even if it's just "an estimate."
FedEx wanted a similar amount. This is frustrating because Jason shared that he's shipped units like this (boxed, taped, etc. already) for around $80 (correct me if I'm wrong Jason) through UPS.
Any other numbers people want to share for shipping? Both weight and price would be great.
Me thinks you doth protest too much. If I bought a good transaxle for $200. I wouldn't be worrying so much about the shipping cost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
Me thinks you doth protest too much. If I bought a good transaxle for $200. I wouldn't be worrying so much about the shipping cost.
Thanks.
It was $250 actually, and the reason I asked others for shipping ballpark numbers (as well as carriers) is because I don't want to make the same mistake someone else makes. That's wisdom, right? Learning from your (or others') mistakes, and applying it to your actions?
Additionally, the cost wasn't the top concern for shipping - it was actually getting the thing headed towards me and with a carrier that wouldn't break it. If this car isn't back together before I leave for school, it goes to the junkyard. Not my decision, but the person who allows the car to sit behind the garage and take up space...It's the last thing I want to have happen, but I won't have control of it.
Who wants a transaxle to show up without a car to put it in?
 

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Thanks.
It was $250 actually, and the reason I asked others for shipping ballpark numbers (as well as carriers) is because I don't want to make the same mistake someone else makes. That's wisdom, right? Learning from your (or others') mistakes, and applying it to your actions?
Additionally, the cost wasn't the top concern for shipping - it was actually getting the thing headed towards me and with a carrier that wouldn't break it. If this car isn't back together before I leave for school, it goes to the junkyard. Not my decision, but the person who allows the car to sit behind the garage and take up space...It's the last thing I want to have happen, but I won't have control of it.
Who wants a transaxle to show up without a car to put it in?
Surely in SE MI you are close to Dean Russell at Trail Alfa Trail Auto So ask him for help so you don't lose your car.

I am sure Lenard can get tranny shipped to him if all else fails and you have to get back to school. Dean has helped me out many times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
Surely in SE MI you are close to Dean Russell at Trail Alfa Trail Auto So ask him for help so you don't lose your car.

I am sure Lenard can get tranny shipped to him if all else fails and you have to get back to school. Dean has helped me out many times.
I have worked with Dean before, and he has dealt with my family and extended family both for many many years. He helped me with this car just last summer.
Lenard assured me last night over the phone that he would ship today (Friday), so it looks like this is going to work out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
Got a gearbox from Dean yesterday.
The box is in the car (resting on the subframe) but will NOT line up on the motor.

Any tricks? an alignment tool of some sort would be nice but not sure what to do.
 

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Got a gearbox from Dean yesterday.
The box is in the car (resting on the subframe) but will NOT line up on the motor.

Any tricks? an alignment tool of some sort would be nice but not sure what to do.
I had a heckuva time with this as well, so don't feel like you did something wrong. Also, avoid any temptation to pull it into place with the bolts - that's always a bad idea.

The key thing for me was getting lots of hands involved - six, if you're counting. One person under the gearbox to "bench press" up the weight; one in the wheel well to push and guide the gearbox into place; and a third reaching over the fender to keep things square and guide things in from that perspective. After struggling for a couple days by byself, I had it done in 2 minutes this way. My two helpers wondered when we were getting to the hard part and were shocked when I said, "we're done!"
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
I had a heckuva time with this as well, so don't feel like you did something wrong. Also, avoid any temptation to pull it into place with the bolts - that's always a bad idea.

The key thing for me was getting lots of hands involved - six, if you're counting. One person under the gearbox to "bench press" up the weight; one in the wheel well to push and guide the gearbox into place; and a third reaching over the fender to keep things square and guide things in from that perspective. After struggling for a couple days by byself, I had it done in 2 minutes this way. My two helpers wondered when we were getting to the hard part and were shocked when I said, "we're done!"
I think the trick will be the extra hands - I also think that the intermediate shaft may have been keeping the 'box from moving further to the motor. Also - another problem was getting the gearbox actually square (i.e. correct bolt holes lined up). It seems to be stuck, and needs to be rotated about five degrees clockwise (facing the motor) to be lined up.

Best way to slide intermediate shaft out of the way? halfshaft is disconnected on that side, shouldn't it just slide back?
 
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