I noticed, a leak on the driveway, in the middle of the car. I was able to crawl under there, and saw gear oil slowly leaking out of the seal at the rear of the transmission. It's before the rubber guibo. What needs to come out in order to replace the seal?
gear box tailshaft seal
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Front half of the driveshaft, donut, output flange, which is held in by a big nut (1 1/8" I think is the SAE equivalent) and torqued, or should be. Access is easier if you remove the trans mount, with some other temp trans support.
Prying the seal out is possible, go gently so as not to put any divots in the surrounding metal.
Andrew
Prying the seal out is possible, go gently so as not to put any divots in the surrounding metal.
Andrew
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Trans rear mount
I just did this with the transmission out of the car and it was very easy. Lying on your back will certainly make this more difficult but in addition to what Andrew said...
I bought a deep 32mm socket for my impact driver at Harbor Freight for just a few bucks. The workshop manual shows how after taking off the giubo you take on the the 3 remaining bolts and slide it forward (toward the front of the car) to wedge it against the transmission to keep the 3 pronged thing from spinning while you take the big center nut off. Note that there should be a largish rubber washer/bushing thing on the end of the transmission output shaft that will need to come off. Also note that there is a locking washer holding the big bolt on that you need to flatten first. Take off the bolt and washer then the 3 pronged thing should come off. Mine came off easy but if it doesn't you will need a small puller. A few taps with a hammper on the ends of the prongs might help.
When you get the pronged thing off you will notice it has the speedo drive gear attached and it has a surface that meets up with the seal that you are trying to replace. I polished this for good measure with a strip of 400 grit emory paper.
I used a large screw driver and a hammer to carefully pry out the seal (how's that: hammer and careful in the same sentence!).
I was able to tap the greased seal back into place with a large flat faced drift by going around in circles a tiny bit at a time.
I just did this with the transmission out of the car and it was very easy. Lying on your back will certainly make this more difficult but in addition to what Andrew said...
I bought a deep 32mm socket for my impact driver at Harbor Freight for just a few bucks. The workshop manual shows how after taking off the giubo you take on the the 3 remaining bolts and slide it forward (toward the front of the car) to wedge it against the transmission to keep the 3 pronged thing from spinning while you take the big center nut off. Note that there should be a largish rubber washer/bushing thing on the end of the transmission output shaft that will need to come off. Also note that there is a locking washer holding the big bolt on that you need to flatten first. Take off the bolt and washer then the 3 pronged thing should come off. Mine came off easy but if it doesn't you will need a small puller. A few taps with a hammper on the ends of the prongs might help.
When you get the pronged thing off you will notice it has the speedo drive gear attached and it has a surface that meets up with the seal that you are trying to replace. I polished this for good measure with a strip of 400 grit emory paper.
I used a large screw driver and a hammer to carefully pry out the seal (how's that: hammer and careful in the same sentence!).
I was able to tap the greased seal back into place with a large flat faced drift by going around in circles a tiny bit at a time.
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A normal lip-seal removal tool (a hooked thing, looks like it came off a pirate ship) will do the trick, but be careful; it's easy to scrape the surface the seal drives in on, and it's possible to ding/mar the corner/edge from prying. I always use the tool against a couple rags or small piece of wood.
Mark all your hardware and shaft pieces to go back the same way it comes apart. If you take the whole driveshaft out, mark the two halves to go back the same. A big hose clamp around the donut will help compress it to remove it.
Andrew
Mark all your hardware and shaft pieces to go back the same way it comes apart. If you take the whole driveshaft out, mark the two halves to go back the same. A big hose clamp around the donut will help compress it to remove it.
Andrew
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