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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all

In need of a good no rust fuel tank or new old stock
Or if one can be made

Thank you
Al
 

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My Montreal's fuel tank has been at the repair shop for over three weeks. It wasn't very rusty inside but it had been repaired before I got it. If the tank was filled up at the gas station and the car driven straight home, fumes would fill the garage and house. For a year or two I avoided filling this small tank up near the top -or driving straight home if I accidentally did fill it up. It is funny how it takes 20 minutes or more to fill this small tank. Maybe it is just being in the Atlanta suburbs where a bunch of gear heads are drawn to this car and I am easily distracted.
Well about a month ago my home and garage smelled like a gasoline refinery, after a fill up. I had previously replaced the fuel tank's sending unit gasket (standard 105, available from CA, CI, etc.). The boss on the bottom of the tank was actually leaking too, this time. Initially I was optimistic about the shop (Marietta Radiator) but I am loosing confidence in them. Right now, I'd trade the complete Montreal tachometer cluster (plus boot) that I have listed on eBay for a n.o.s. tank, if you turn up a couple of them.

Perhaps the right shop could fix your tank. Perhaps I should have shopped around a bit more but I have used Marietta Radiator for 35 years and they came highly recommended.

Mark
 

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I got my 'repaired' tank back from the shop. Honestly I am not impressed with their work. It looks like the fuel tank has been coated with thick 'bed liner' using a paint brush. I just hope that it doesn't leak when it is filled with fuel.

The tank was difficult to remove from the car. I unscrewed the bolts at the front of the straps near the differential. Then let the tank pirouette around so the fuel filler neck cleared the gasket as it dropped out of the cradle. Going the other way seems almost impossible. I checked Montreal the Essential Companion before starting this project but unfortunately could not find any mention of gas tank removal and installation. If anyone with Montreal fuel tank experience has suggestions, I am interested. I've spent a few hours under the car and the fuel tank is still laying on the ground!

tank.jpg


Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mark

What the hell did they do to the outside of your tank 🥺
I would ask them and then if it has nothing to do with the sealing of the tank which I can believe it does
I would remove it.
I would as I sure you know it will be a messy job
A nice coat of primer and semi gloss black paint to finish

We took our tank on a lift and that made it a lot easier

Our Montreal will not be out of paint till first week of January 2021 if you don't get any help on getting it back in sooner than that I can send you pictures and video

Best
Al
 

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I would highly recommend Metalworks in Eugene Oregon, I thought my fuel tank was a total loss due to the rust and crud inside the tank. Metalworks acid dipped it and then did a rust inhibitor treatment to it, I was absolutely sold on the process after that. Metal Dipping | Classic Car Acid Dipping to remove paint &rust

They do drill a hole into the fuel tank to remove a air pocket during the dip process that you will need to welded up

I powder coated the tank when finished.

1664126

1664127
 

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Mark, I’m sorry to say, that looks horrible. Looks like is was used for a brush on Flex Seal commercial, probably would look better if they used Flex Seal! I wonder if these tanks can be reproduced, hmm, probably not worth the effort with the so few that would be sold. If I ever decide to sell my NOS tank, I’ll list it here on the bb first.
 

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At one time, when I needed a new petrol tank, Tom Bouet at Classic Alfa said they were going to make a run of 6 new ones. But that project fell over, probably due to lack of demand. I feel that they would press ahead if there was enough demand.

The only issue is that sometimes CA's actions don't match their promises.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
At one time, when I needed a new petrol tank, Tom Bouet at Classic Alfa said they were going to make a run of 6 new ones. But that project fell over, probably due to lack of demand. I feel that they would press ahead if there was enough demand.

The only issue is that sometimes CA's actions don't match their promises.
Well I would think that demand for Six tanks is real and we can only hope CA or OKP will look to have some made
Maybe we should start a list of all Montreal owners that would purchase one with a deposit to ensure the sale
 

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The fuel tank is back on the car. It is not an easy job. It helped to jack the rear end way up, using the jacking points, while letting the rear end hang by the axle straps. The fuel tank straps, electric fuel pump and part of the parking brake assembly had to be removed. If I had to do it again (something I never hope to do) I would leave the tank straps attached loosely at their rear attachment point, if possible. I did refinish the tank prior to installing it but it really is not easily seen under the car.

Fuel tank reinstalled.jpg


Mark
 

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Unfortunately when the fuel tank was removed, the tank banjo fitting (from the casting on the bottom of the tank, that the fuel filter is attached to) was also removed. This was done so that the repair shop wouldn't lose the fitting and because it seemed like a good time to change the in-tank filter. The gaskets for the filter casting appear to have cement on both sides, making removal very difficult. Rather then risk destroying the casting, it and what appears to be a clean filter were left in place.

With everything reinstalled, about 4 gallons of fuel were added to the tank -because that's all I had and I hoped it would be enough to make it to the 'ethanol free' station about 10 miles away. Despite using new copper crush washers on both sides of the banjo fitting, there is still a very slight but persistent leak, argh! I don't know the torque spec. for the banjo fitting but feel certain it has been exceeded.

Mainly for Al or others who may go there; don't remove the banjo fitting unless you absolutely have to. My plan is to re-anneal the original copper sealing washers by heating them red hot with a torch and allowing them to slowly cool. My hope is that they will fit better then the replacement washers. Then drain the tank and allow it dry out, install the banjo fitting with 'thread sealant' on the banjo bolt threads, using the re-annealed original copper gaskets. The thread sealant I plan to use is like white caulk but made by Loctite (#565). Does anyone know the torque spec for the banjo bolt? It seems that I have consistently had issues with this style banjo bolt in the past. Both on Weber carburetors and the Montreal engine compartment fuel filter. Usually by increasing torque on the fitting the previous leaks were stopped. Would anyone have suggestions about dealing with these banjo bolts, other then leaving them alone, which I plan to do in the future.

Mark
 

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Perhaps Al (MI Alfa) could still use a fuel tank. My tank and fittings are finally full and holding fuel without issues. I am super envious of mtbjeff's fuel tank, well the entire car is really stupendous!

Mark
 

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After looking at my re-installed fuel tank, I noticed that there appeared to be a missing fuel tank gator or seal plate and gasket around the filler neck. I know that the tank had been removed and reconditioned in the past because it was painted silver and had some sort of sealer inside. Would someone please post pictures of the pieces that I suspect are missing?

Fuel tank gator.jpg


Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #15
After looking at my re-installed fuel tank, I noticed that there appeared to be a missing fuel tank gator or seal plate and gasket around the filler neck. I know that the tank had been removed and reconditioned in the past because it was painted silver and had some sort of sealer inside. Would someone please post pictures of the pieces that I suspect are missing?

View attachment 1670741

Mark
 

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Thanks Al and Jeff, yes there are two parts missing from my fuel tank gator. I suspect that when Paul, the previous long term owner had the tank repaired, he forgot and/or decided not to install the tank gator and plate. I wonder if they can be installed without removing the tank (I'd like to avoid that flogging exercise). It looks like the rubber splash guard and drain tube would have to be removed from the tank neck first. That part needs replacement as well, since it is torn at the filler neck.


Jeff, that car is sick!

Mark
 

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Jeff...I agree totally with Mark....very sick! I have been looking for the green hoses to the vapor canister for a while now.....where did you get them from?
 
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