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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Like the title says... I have my fuel tank fully unscrewed / disconnected and its ready to come out - but I'm a bit confused as to what happens @ the filler neck to rubber shroud junction. If I'm reading the parts manual correctly, for the GTV (as opposed to the Spider) the filler neck is welded to the tank and has no removable parts besides the filler cap. Then do I simply wrangle the tank until I can get the neck down and out of the rubber filler funnel around the filling area? Or should I remove the dreaded rubber funnel? If so, how and are they available new?
 

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The rubber piece fits over a flange around the opening, and will come out with the neck (which is a part of the tank-all one piece). I had to wrangle it off the flange and do some yanking...
I know Classic Alfa has new ones. They aren't cheap, but I've been told that the old ones are impossible to reinstall as they've lost their flex, become brittle, etc.
 

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Remove rubber funnel , done this a few times it should come out easy with just a little this way that way !
 

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I agree with what the previous posts have said:

- Have to remove the boot from the body in order to get out the tank with its attached filler neck. But, that's the easy part:
- Reinstalling the tank and then snapping the boot back into the body is next to impossible.

You might want to read this thread:
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/gt-1965-1974/176140-shortening-fuel-filler-neck.html as well as other threads on the BB regarding cutting the neck off the tank, shortening it, and re-attaching using a section of hose + 2 clamps. This accomplishes two things:

- Makes it possible to reinstall the tank, boot, filler (do 'em in that order).
- Lowers the filler inlet so that modern fuel nozzles will fit
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks all

Managed to get the tank out with the rubber boot in place...

I sprayed some silicone lube over the entire rubber boot to make it more workable, then manhandled the boot off the filler neck... in other words I pushed the boot from the trunk until the neck was free. Then I pushed the boot OUT the filler door to get it out of the way. With some 3D wrangling I got the tank out in about an hour. Not so bad!

Thanks for the tips on the reinstall and neck mod.

How bad is it to refill a GTV without the mod? I've never driven my car (or any GTV, which is kind of crazy given the amount of time I spend working on this car/talking about it) but anyway... is it a nightmare of spilled fuel or just that a little extra care is needed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alfajay - in the cut filler neck scenario, what locates the top portion of the filler? Just the friction from the rubber boot and the fact that its attached (via 1" hose) to the tank?

Has anyone done this on a late model gtv2000 neck ?
 

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My '73 is no problem to fill, but I don't live where they have those accordian filler nozzles you have to push on to get the fuel to flow...
 

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Alfajay - in the cut filler neck scenario, what locates the top portion of the filler? Just the friction from the rubber boot and the fact that its attached (via 1" hose) to the tank ?
Keep in mind that the two ends of the pipe up from the tank and down from the filler are in contact. The hose is tightly clamped to both hoses, so it holds them against each other. You are not depending on the stiffness of the hose to hold the filler. And that hose is way bigger than 1" - as I recall, the id is about 2", and the wall is quite thick.

The boot doesn't provide any support.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Keep in mind that the two ends of the pipe up from the tank and down from the filler are in contact. The hose is tightly clamped to both hoses, so it holds them against each other. So you are not depending on the stiffness of the hose to hold the filler (though that approx 2" id hose is pretty stiff).

The boot doesn't provide any support.
Oh yeah i get it now. Cause otherwise the filler would be at the same height and whats the point of that. Cool. So the 2" ID fuel hose wasn't hard to find? Remember someone saying they had to go to a truck store or something...
 

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So the 2" ID fuel hose wasn't hard to find? Remember someone saying they had to go to a truck store or something...
Don't quote me on the 2" id - measure your's to be sure. I just went to my local NAPA store (Orange Engine in Dana Point), brought my filler neck, and asked for 4" of fuel resistant hose that would fit the neck. The guy carried it into the back, and returned with what I needed. The cost was 6 or 8 bucks.
 

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r-mm note that the filler neck has a long skinny tappering drain pipe which is pushed into a hole in the boot below fuel door. Pull this out first. I was yanking at my tank for ages and I couldn't work out why it was stuck. After having done this remove the fuel filler neck rubber from around the outer ridges of the fuel filler door and then wriggle it down the fuel tank's neck pipe a couple of inches. Now the rubber neck is nolonger attached to the car. It is however attached to the fuel tank neck and so it should then be reasonably straight forward to wriggle the tank out of the boot with the neck still attached to it.

Hope that helps...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Now that I have the tank out, POR-15 rehab kit on order, I'm thinking about reinstall - expecially how to re-seal the tank to body joint and what to use to replace the screws / tabs. I've read mention of closed cell truck cab sealing tape. How about this stuff: McMaster-Carr

Are you all using tape that is wide enough to wrap around the perimeter of the tab on the gas tank (3/4" x 2 = approx 1.5"), or something U shaped?

What about the little tabs/screws - mine were pretty much dust. Any tips? I don't even know what to call those little u shaped tabs that the screws bit into...?
 

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Those little tabs are spring nuts. I bought them and new screws from a local hardware store. I think there are only 6 or 8.
My old tank seal was in really nice shape so I reused it (contact cemented to the tank), but I know a couple of guys who just used a bead of good quality silicone type sealant.
 

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Tank Gasket Material

I've just gone through this exercise on my all-original '65 GT and I must say, it'll be easier the next time! Isn't that always the case...

My car had the foam-type tank flange gasket as well as a putty tape sealant/caulk beneath. There was no evidence that the tank had ever been out and no records or recollections from the first owner. So I'm confident that what I found was what Alfa originally installed back in August 1965.

I was determined to find the same stuff, in the same colors, even, and think I did! Here's what I used:

For the original foam gasket, which is sold by the English and German suppliers, I bought this from McMaster Carr:

McMaster-Carr

It is the same width, thickness and color as the OEM and appears to be of the proper firmness. It installed very nicely.

To duplicate the original putty sealant/ caulk, I finally found and used this:

https://www.makariosrv.com/products/Butyl-Putty-Tape.html

It's a butyl rubber tape caulk in the proper off-white/ light gray color and in the matching 3/4" width and 1/8" thickness. It's available from most RV Camper suppliers for about $5 a roll.

To duplicate what I had origianally, I put the putty tape down first so that it slightly overhung the flange. (It's sticky so stays in place) Then I laid the foam tape on top of the butyl putty tape so that the foam tape was tight against the vertical wall next to the flange. The foam tape has an adhesive on one side, so that side went down, making it a stay in place as I applied it and as I then maneuvered the tank into place.

Use a small Phillips screw driver or punch to poke a guide hole in the foam for your screws and snug them down. I suspect that the seals will compress a bit initially after the car bounces around with a full tank of gas, so I'll recheck the screws later.

Hope this helps.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Super helpful, thanks!
 

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Now that I have the tank out, POR-15 rehab kit on order, I'm thinking about reinstall - expecially how to re-seal the tank to body joint and what to use to replace the screws / tabs. I've read mention of closed cell truck cab sealing tape. How about this stuff: McMaster-Carr

Are you all using tape that is wide enough to wrap around the perimeter of the tab on the gas tank (3/4" x 2 = approx 1.5"), or something U shaped?

What about the little tabs/screws - mine were pretty much dust. Any tips? I don't even know what to call those little u shaped tabs that the screws bit into...?
I just installed the tank in my 72 GTV this weekend. I used Camper seal foam tape that was 3/16" thick x 1.25" wide made by M-D. I cut the tape down to 3/4" wide and then stuck it down to the tank flange and then went around the screw holes with an exacto knife to open them up. After getting the tank in place some of the screws went into the spring nuts easily but on a couple of them I had to get under the car and shift the spring nuts slightly with a screw driver to get the holes to line up and the screws in.

My only concern is that the camper tape that I used is only 3/16" thick which is much thiner than the origional foam gasket that I removed which was deteriorated. We'll see how it does.

I got the camper foam tape, spring nuts and hardware all in one stop at my local Osh hardware store.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Does anyone know if the two rubber embedded studs in the foreground of this pic of the fuel pump bracket are available? Again I don't have the right word for what this thing is, but to me it looks like it decouples vibration by having two separate studs embedded in rubber with no metal to metal contact. if that is right, mine are looking pretty tired and ready to crack
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Like every single other job, if its worth doing its worth doing right I suppose.

So one more for you all... where did you source replacements for the grommets / insulation around the hard fuel lines and does anyone have the diameters for the hard lines? Any reason to buy a fancier tubing bender/flaring tool than HF? Tube Bending Pliers
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Maybe this will work for ya'.
sweet! did you use them on your bertone gtv? they sure look like the same size part but since it says GTV6 itd be good to get confirmation from someone on the BB that they're right...
 
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