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While I haven't checked Vintre's calculations I wouldn't hesitate to say they probably aren't that far off. We get raped in Canada. Everything costs more and when we have to buy outside of the country everybody takes advantage of us. Suppliers charge more for shipping, couriers charge fees like brokerage fees, handling fees, collect sales tax and import duties for the government. It's a $hit show. Oh... then there is exchange which is almost 30%. I remember my first purchase years ago from IAP. The parts were like $150 and by the time they landed at my door with all scam charges and exchanges, the end cost was almost $300. Doesn't seem possible but it unfortunately is the case. Anyways... this isnt really what this thread is really about, right?

Wow! So something can leap from $102 to $257 just with tax!?!? I thought we had it bad over here. And I thought Canada had a free trade deal with Europe.
 

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So I finally got the passenger-side inner wheel bearing race off...what a bear! Had to remove the splash guard, and cut the inner seal casing to remove the seal. Only then did I haver enough room to get my 2-jaw gear puller on the bearing race and pull it off.

Now a question: I saw earlier on in this post about how the hub (with a new inner bearing installed) can be pushed onto the spindle...it doesn't need to be pressed in place. And that torquing the hub nut will seat the inner bearing race on the spindle.
I'm concerned that the spindle OD is 30mm, and the bearing inner race is 29.90mm. And given how hard the old one was to remove, it seems like it needs to be seated with some great deal of force. Any advice?
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Now a question: I saw earlier on in this post about how the hub (with a new inner bearing installed) can be pushed onto the spindle...it doesn't need to be pressed in place. And that torquing the hub nut will seat the inner bearing race on the spindle.
I'm concerned that the spindle OD is 30mm, and the bearing inner race is 29.90mm. And given how hard the old one was to remove, it seems like it needs to be seated with some great deal of force. Any advice?
As long as the spindle is clean and undamaged, you should be able to seat the bearing with the hub nut.

Where did you get the bearings and what maker?

Vin
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I got the bearings at RockAuto. The inner is #410.90006 (NSK #HR 30206J)
Spec says 30mm ID. I would try them.

Good luck,

Vin
 

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Place car on jack stands. Ensure that the car is stable.
View attachment 1592068

Remove the tire.
View attachment 1592070

At this point, with some forward thinking, I sprayed the flat head screws that hold the hub/rotor assembly together with some liquid wrench. We will come back to these screws later.
View attachment 1592072

Place a catch pan under the brake caliper to collect any brake fluid that might/will be spilled while removing the brake caliper.
View attachment 1592074
Replace the flat ( standard) screws with Allen bolts, and anti seize all the bolts and nuts that you removed
 

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Got the wheel bearings and rotors on. A little tap on the hub washer with a big socket, then tightening hub nut did the rest, as it should. Preloaded as prescribed and It spins and sounds right.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Got the wheel bearings and rotors on. A little tap on the hub washer with a big socket, then tightening hub nut did the rest, as it should. Preloaded as prescribed and It spins and sounds right.
Great news! Thanks for letting us know.

Vin
 
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