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Discussion Starter #162
Vivace,

Congrats on a job well done!

Thanks for documenting all the differences with your 1600 as well I have no doubt it will be of use in the future.

Vin
 

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Vivace...re bump stops.
One of these (the square one, if I recall correctly) is tough to refit. You’ve got to pull a rubber cone through the mount hole until it it seats In a ‘neck’. Really tough, I found. I was worried about breaking the cone through using the wrong tools or excessive force.
Since there’s no pulling forces on these after installation, I carved a spiral groove in the rubber down the cone (a bit like a thread, using a blade) so I could screw/wind the bump stop into place. Look at your bonnet/hood bump stops to get the picture, tho my spiral wasn’t as ‘tight’ as those.
Worked like a charm.
 

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Some have their own tricks, but it needs to be pulled through, elongating
/stretching/narrowing the cone sufficiently to slide through the mount hole As far as the neck.
That was the bit that looked too risky for me. I think that making it slippery with Vaseline etc would likely make it harder to grip and pull. Perhaps just a little at the mount hole might help.
 

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Hi Vin, I just finished rebuilding the front and rear suspension on my 1991 Spider using your photos and write up.
Rebuilding the suspension is a little scary when you think about the complexity of that rebuild. The shop manual did not ease my concern either. I'm not a mechanic and I was afraid I would get in over my head.
Your step by step pictures and write up gave me the confidence to tackle that job and I'm happy to say my Spider is on the road again as good as new.
Thank you!
Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #168
Hi Vin, I just finished rebuilding the front and rear suspension on my 1991 Spider using your photos and write up.
Rebuilding the suspension is a little scary when you think about the complexity of that rebuild. The shop manual did not ease my concern either. I'm not a mechanic and I was afraid I would get in over my head.
Your step by step pictures and write up gave me the confidence to tackle that job and I'm happy to say my Spider is on the road again as good as new.
Thank you!
Jack
Hi Jack,

Glad to hear that the thread helped you and you are back on the road!

I couldn't do most things on the ALFA without the support of this unbelievable community so I am only too happy to be able to pay back.

Have fun driving and stay safe.

Vin
 

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Some assembly last night, and questions.........

This is the control arm to wishbone joint on the rear / tie rod end. This is exactly how mine came, with no foam washer or dust cap. Should there be a foam washer in that tiny gap there?
IMG_5555 copy.JPG
IMG_5556 copy.JPG


All torqued up, but the tabbed washers aren't bent up yet. Interesting to see how the cork washers on the inside have formed to the arms. The rear arm moves easily, the front one is quite tight and needs a big screwdriver in my other hand through the bolt hole to rotate. Will this loosen up? Would it be enough to change the spring rate? I wouldn't think so.
IMG_5557 copy.JPG

^^^ Should there be a lock nut on the shock mount stud?

First of those rubber bump stops pulled out. The tab Ranz mentioned tore right off - they're dry and old. The third one, the "hockey puck," has a stud and a square nut on it, so I'll soak that in some PB.
IMG_5559 copy.JPG



Wire brushing the crud off the cross member, then degrease / prime / paint (if any of my new chassis black cans weren't clogged!!) Question - the single-bolt dog bone has much larger bolt size than the 4-bolt. Does anyone know the torque spec on these nuts? Is it in the manual?

Interesting that there's some grey-green primer showing under some of the original black paint.
IMG_5561 copy.JPG
 

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After some brushing and scraping, I think this is actually the inner sleeve of the sway bar bushing. There's gummy rubber on the outside. I may have to cut and spit this to get it off. You can see the washer there as well.

IMG_5567.JPG
IMG_5569.JPG
 

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So yes, that is the inner sleeve of the bushing, seized on the sway bar end.
Dremel, score, chisel, PB soak, peel, split, spin, wrestle off with a big pliers.
IMG_5584.JPG

IMG_5585.JPG

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The shaft got a bit scored. I cleaned it up with a small file. Not sure yet how tight the new bushing will be to push on - just now ordering them!
IMG_5588.JPG

Then the other half in the drop link......
Hacksaw blade, score it in two places, PB soak, chisel, split, push it out.
IMG_5591.JPG

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Win!
IMG_5593.JPG

And here's an interesting discovery - someone way back before me....35 years ago??...put in poly bushings at the drop link. Hard and brittle, they crumbled.
IMG_5590.JPG
 

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This bumps stop threads in to a welded square nut hidden in a recess. I was trying to PB soak and get it off with an 18mm wrench! The stop just breaks free with a large channel lock pliers.

The new one looks twice the height...? Has mine just been smashed down and flattened that much? It still has nice crisp edges and isn't bulged out any.

hockey puck 1.JPG

hockey puck 2.JPG

frontlowerbumpstop.jpg
 
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