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ready for blasting and painting

That's it all the bushes have been removed and i'm off to the blasters tomorrow for a clean and paint.. bit of luck I may have them back before xmas..... then I can make a start on the rebuild..
 

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Discussion Starter #144
rooony,

Those parts look soooooooo good!

One of my favourite moments of every project is that sound when you flip the ratchet over to "tighten"

Good luck,

Vin
 

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Vintre, Thanks for the post!
 

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I dont think anyone here doesnt feel a pang of jealousy when you see a redone, cleaned up n freshly painted suspension setup.
Ive rebuild my cars for street, then to racing, n now back again and never done this. Even now im thinking of ways to avoid this on my berlina by bead blasting the suspension on the car and repainting with chassis paint. But to do this right, it probably has to all come apart as shown. Is impressive and hats off to all tackling this the right way...
 

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finally getting mine back together after a full strip down and refresh... unfortunately I ended up do lots more jobs with the suspension out the way.. ie clutch slave/flexi/master etc.. stripped inner wings/cross member and bare metal painted etc... Then the nuts and bolts to replace/zinc plate... the list was endless.... The finishing line is in sight!
 

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Discussion Starter #150
finally getting mine back together after a full strip down and refresh... unfortunately I ended up do lots more jobs with the suspension out the way.. ie clutch slave/flexi/master etc.. stripped inner wings/cross member and bare metal painted etc... Then the nuts and bolts to replace/zinc plate... the list was endless.... The finishing line is in sight!

Looking good!

Vin
 

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Hi Vin, I just started to rebuild my front suspension and your post is fantastic, but I do need some advise.
I am having trouble getting the drivers side spring pan off. I can't get the sway bar drop link adapter out. As you can see in the picture here the 3 bolts are out and the nut on the drop link adapter is loose, but that adapter won't budge. I put the nut back on and hit it with a hammer but it is stuck tight. I tried with the 3 threaded rods tight and again with them loose. It is soaking in Kroil right now and I'll try again tomorrow.
Do you have any advise on how to get that out?
1613993
 

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Discussion Starter #152
It is soaking in Kroil right now and I'll try again tomorrow.
Do you have any advise on how to get that out?
Hmmmm...... that end link should come out with a little encouragement that you gave,

I would do the same. Spray it on top and the bottom. Give it some more penetrating oil before you go to bed again.

Should do the same to the other side just in case.

Good luck,

Vin
 

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Hi Vin, I finally got it out by heating the casting with a torch and knocking the adapter out with an air hammer. I tried to pry and hammer it out before using the torch but it just would not budge. Not very elegant but it got the job done.
Thanks
Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #154
Hi Vin, I finally got it out by heating the casting with a torch and knocking the adapter out with an air hammer. I tried to pry and hammer it out before using the torch but it just would not budge. Not very elegant but it got the job done.
Thanks
Jack
Good news.

Heat was going to be my next suggestion.

Good luck,

Vin
 

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OK!...I finally started reassembly of this car. Thanks to Mentor Vitre and this bookmarked thread!

My car is a 1600 Spider and there are a few differences. I'm also changing the car to 2-liter front spindles, newer LS rear axle, and Ate brake calipers from Dunlop. The suspension on this car has never been off. I took off only the right front so I can check the LF assembly mirrored if I need a reference.

Here are my disassembly notes for the record:

(3/8" threaded rods and long coupler nuts technique)

Spring pan bolts were moderately tight. two hands on a 3/8 ratchet.
Had to remove tie rod end to get inside rear bolt out of arm.
As I loosened each pan bolt, a small gap opened up right away - there is a lot of pressure on the spring.
I put the threaded rod in right away and snugged the arm back up before moving on to the next corner.
Removing the shock first may give you some more room to work.
Pried the sway bar end link off the bar - bushings are shot!
Lowered gradually, slow & safe, equally on all four bolts.
Maintain roughly the same exposed thread on each.
Some will go slack as you loosen - didn't go past slack - if you leave much gap, there will be a sudden clunk at that bolt as you loosen another corner, which can be a bit disconcerting.
A ratcheting box-end wrench is invaluable! - bought a Sears 9/16" for $13 (EDIT - we no longer have a Sears here)
About halfway down the rods, all nuts will go slack. At that point you can just spin them off with your fingers and the pan and spring drop out.
Don't lose the steel spacers at each bolt hole. (EDIT - I need to find these!)
Wire the spring and spacers together to remind yourself of orientation.

Degrease / clean / prime / paint (I'm just using "chassis black," no powder coating)
 

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Pics from this weekend - Feels so great to be working on this again. Work / family / budget / kids / kid's project cars / keeping the daily drivers running / all the excuses.....

Cleared out the garage of cars, lawn mower, shop vac, my son's old BMW transmission, and started reconstructing the crime scene.
IMG_5509 copy.JPG

I was pleased to remember I had cleaned and painted a lot of parts already.
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One re-furbed, one not.
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Spherical bearing pressed into the lower control arms. These are the ones the guy changed me an arm & a leg to do. The other side I'll do myself.
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Adjustable upper arms I've had forever. From Centerline long ago, probably over 20 years ago, just planning ahead.
IMG_5521 copy.JPG

Newer 2-liter upright, cleaned and painted. I installed a "Speedi-sleeve" over a groove in the old seal surface.
IMG_5524 copy.JPG
 

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Here's where the real stuff starts.....

I carefully put all washers and nuts in order on a zip tie, so they are how the car was built.
IMG_5528 copy.JPG


Made notes....
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That big washer on the inside stayed on the dogbone (NOTE one-hole dogbone mounts on a 1600 1967).
It has the chamfered hole and fits the bevel on the bolt shaft per Vintre's notes.
The green retainer spring is on the inside of the arm, and the cork washer on top of that. I used just a schmear of anti-seize on the shaft and washers after brass brushing them.
IMG_5530 copy.JPG

First is the thin cupped washer (this one is pretty flattened, not much "cup." I pressed it down into the recess and over the bolt shoulder. I placed it per my zip-tie order with the bevel at the outer edge facing down (?)
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Then the thick washer with the tab...
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Then the thin tabbed washer that gets bent up to lock the nut...
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Nut. As Vintre instructed, once this is snugged, I worked it around a while to distribute the grease. It was TIGHT! Did I do the washers wrong and bind it up?! Nope, it let go pretty suddenly and rotated smoothly. Then it pivoted / angled on the bolt shaft! OH NO, what have I done wrong?! It's just the spherical bearing rotating on it's axis I believe. When the arms are bolted up to the ball joint, it will all be square. Is this correct?
IMG_5536 copy.JPG

There are no dust caps on the 1600.
 

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Some questions for you -

The 1600 has different details than Vintre's car. Should I replace all these rubber bump stops? There's the upper square "pillow" stop, the hockey puck stop, and the upside down cone with a hole in it at the bottom. They're surprisingly soft still. On the left side, however, steering box oil has sprayed around there and they look way worse.
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My sway bar end links are totally different, and completely shot. I'll have to locate the correct ones - maybe the UK suppliers? Centerline? And sway bar bushings while I'm at it.
IMG_5518 copy.JPG

Should I not even think about using these brand new but very-old-new-stock brake hoses? In a bag, stored in the dark for years. If they're not that expensive, is it worth the risk, or are they fine?
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These are rebuilt Ate calipers from Centerline long ago, still in plastic, stored in a box. New underfloor master cylinder as well.
 

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Thanks to all for documenting this procedure. I will be jumping in soon, our '85 Graduate drives like a '50's vintage Buick
 
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