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Discussion Starter #1
I am seeking advice on repair of my GTV6 front spoiler. It as a couple of long cracks due to contact with a high curb. I have tried several adhesives and solvents and none of them have worked.

Thanks.
 

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Ed
This might respond to Plastic Welding. Lots of info on YouTube and you start at the back so if it's not the right technique you are no worse off
 

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When I had mine off for paint I noticed several cracks that had been repaired from the backside with what looked like slightly melted plastic knives and JB Weld. The front was filled with JB Weld and maybe some Bondo, then painted.
I don't think plastic welding would work with this material.
 

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Ed, I successfully fixed a crack in the bottom of Mike's air dam by gluing it with 3M plastic emblem adhesive, and using a flat steel strap across the crack affixed by 4 small bolts/nuts. It was on the bottom surface, so it's not even visible, normally.
 

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I believe the plastic resin used in the front spoiler may be a Polyolefin (polypropylene or high-density polyester). Too slippery to accept glues. But as Dermot mentioned, could possibly be plastic welded if you can find a local source to do that. Also, as Dave had suggested, you may have to consider adding some bracing from behind... like flush rivets on a thin aluminum plate, and doing some filler on the appearance side. If your cracks are in the area of the grid sections, that makes things too tricky. As this material is too slick for an adhesive bond, Bondo and surface putty may not have a great grip either. Any layers of paint applied over Bondo touch-ups may be as effective in keeping the filler in place as the putty-to-plastic bond itself.

Since this panel has to deal with curb impacts, ALFAs choosing a resin like HDPE or PP would make sense in its being the opposite of brittle. Pretty resilient, if not taken past it's limits. If you look at something like the plastic lid on a cottage cheese container, you can twist it into a pretzel and it will just bounce back. A bit too floppy to be used as a structural option, tho.

Peter
 

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Oooo... Pretty deluxe !! Finally, someone has created a solution to an impossible problem.

If it gloops over, can you file and sand it for priming and paint?
 

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The hot melt type can be softened with a heat gun and sculpted with a putty knife. And it can be sanded but usually not with a power sander - the resultant heat just smears around and fills in the grit of the sandpaper. For reinforcement I've laid in a layer or two of woven fiberglass.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
"plastic surgery" adhesive works on most plastics but not GTV6 air dams. Also Loctite 404.
I am pop riveting metal plates behind the cracks and filling with Bondo bumper filler. Some of the rivets are out of site but six are visible. I use thermal glue but it as little strength.
 
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