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Discussion Starter #1
If I removed and replaced the front pulley on an 8V TS, should the front engine seal be replaced as well? If so, is the seal the same part as the Nord? And finally, is it straight forward to do, or is a special tool or applicator needed. Sorry for the ignorance, I am just not at all familiar with the goings on at this part of the car.

Thanks
 

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The seal should be the same as the standard Nord engine. If you've got the crank pulley off, it probably makes sense to replace the seal. You should be able to replace it with the engine in the car, though it may help to remove the radiator.

When I've installed these, I've used a large socket to provide even pressure all the way around the seal.

Regards,
Lawrence
 

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The socket method does work . That is the way I have done it in the past .
But now I have a seal installer and it make the job a fair bit easer .
KD-41630_LG.jpg
You can find it here K-D Tools 41630 Bearing Race and Seal Driver Kit

Or here 18 Piece Seal Driver Kit

The kit I got is the same but no box . I think it was $25.00
The disks come in handy for lots of jobs .

I also have a seal puller like this one you get it hooked on the seal and pull or hit it with a hammer works like a charm .

image_5698.jpg

It can be found here Carbon Steel Seal Puller w/Side Handle
 

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Stefano, if you have a definite wear groove where the edge of the seal rides on the pulley you might want to consider getting a stainless Speedi-Sleeve to slip over the wear surface. SKF part number 99139 - 1.375 - 1.381.

I order mine from a nearby bearing, etc. place.

Biba
 

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Unless you're going to cut the end of the crankshaft off, you'll have to get a short but large enough tube/pipe to slip over the end of the crank to tap the seal in. It is a bear to try tapping all around the seal to get it in. I've never had any luck doing it that way. I suggest if the seal wasn't leaking a lot of oil, don't change the seal and get the Speedi-Sleeve.

And if you haven't yet, do take the radiator and grill out. If you have air and an impact wrench (or can borrow one), once the tab is bent flat, you can chatter the nut off and later back on - but making sure it is torqued to 137 to 145 ft. pds. is another matter. I gather you gave up trying to install the water pump with the pulley still on.

Biba
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Actually my water pump issue on the Alfa Digest last week was on my GTV. I did the double nut thing and removed the lower studs and was able to get it off. The tach gear was tricky to overcome but with some rotating it came off.

The problem here is that the TS pulley has three groves. I did not realize that after I installed the engine, the pulley is only about 1/4" from the lower radiator/crossmember. As it is now, I would never be able to get a fan belt off the car or a new one replaced. So I sourced a spare TS pulley and had one grove machined off.

The pulley won't even come off without tipping the engine back, and since my trans is out and I'm replacing all the donuts, the rear of the engine will be clear of attachments soon. I should be able to remove the two rear nuts and tip the engine back. I should get this done now while I am in this state.

I don't want to put it back together and have the thing leak, though. Since I won't be doing a professional job of the thing, the odds that it will leak after I'm done are higher that if a professional did it. I picked up a seal from Jon Norman for $15, so it would be a shame to do all that work and have it leak for a $15 part.

Also, I don't think there is a lock tab on the TS pulley. It's very deep and narrow inside the pulley and there is little room outside the nut. I could not see a lock tab when I had the engine out.

Oh, and in case someone is wondering why I did not machine two groves off, I'm leaving one for the CA smog pump. I found a Porsche 924 or 944 pump that is identical to the Alfetta pump and has a groved pulley instead of the toothed pulley. With the proper spacer machined, the pump with be operational, and with my Spica air box on Jim Stecks Spica throttle bodies, the engine compartment will look stock to the untrained eye.
 

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You are correct sir ! There is no lock tab on the TS pulley nut.
It is held in place with thread locker . RED :eek: Thread locker and 150lb ish .
It is a real pain to get off when the motor is in the car .
If you have the motor out an air gun will take it right off with no drama .

Hold the motor from turning . I use a chain wrench on the pulley . Just be careful not to damage the surface that the belt rides on .

Then heat the nut till it smokes with a propane torch and heave on wrench.
 
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