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Discussion Starter #1
It's getting to the stage where I need to give some attention to some rust on the Alfetta GT. I have a collapsible left front jacking point due to some Wally removing a splash guard. I have tackled that repair in my 105 before, so that doesn't worry me too much, but the area which looks more problematic is the double-skinned inner fenders - I.e. between the strengthening plates in the wheel well and the larger wheel arch, which is also 'conveniently' sandwiched under the shock tower.

A few searches hasn't turned up much info. I see a few sellers offering both a repair section and the strengthening plate.

Can anybody point me to some info, offer their experiences or advise on tips or traps?
 

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Ranz: Send me a PM with your email and I'll send you some photos showing this job on my GTV6. It's not a trivial mission - if you've identified valance panel (inner wing/fender) rust and discovered it due to omission of splash guards (like mine) , then you likely have issues at the base of the A pillars down to and maybe including the jacking points. Remedy needs serious body repair skills. The repair panels are available from UK vendors Highwood and EB spares also from German and French outlets. I've been told that the repair panels are made in Turkey but have no verification.
 

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Hi Kondor,

Why not just post the pics to the thread? Many people are faced with this situation.
 

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repair

I've done this job on my Alfetta ChumpCar. It was not hard, but was very time consuming. It involves cutting a lot of spot welds, bending of components for clearance, welding, welding upside down, welding upside down in close quarters, more bending, more welding, cursing, muttering, and alcohol. Lots of alcohol.
For full disclosure: I am not a body man, I have no formal training in sheetmetal work or welding and being a race car, I did not care what the results looked like.

Not the best picture, but if you look closely you'll see it. The repair has held up very well, even withstanding a 50MPH impact with a Toyota (I tried to push our nose through the driver's door bars on the other car).
To sum up, it can be done by an amateur but you may want to consider having a pro look at it.
 

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I've done this job on my Alfetta ChumpCar. It was not hard, but was very time consuming. It involves cutting a lot of spot welds, bending of components for clearance, welding, welding upside down, welding upside down in close quarters, more bending, more welding, cursing, muttering, and alcohol. Lots of alcohol.
Thanks for the pic. Yes, that's what I expect, and why I haven't started the job yet though I've had the patch panels for a year now. My car is a daily beater, so perfection is not a requirement for me either, just closing the holes and restoring the structural integrity.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you Kondor, PM sent.

Eman911 - I expect the same level of angst. Tell me though:

- in what sequence did you tackle things?

- would you do it differently next time?

- Did you use repair panels, or fabricate your own bits?

- puddle weld the old spots, or stitch/seam.

It looks like I will need to replace just about all the fender metal that the strengthening panel covers, plus a bit more 'creep', I am sure.
 

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I'd be interested to hear how you got on with this Ranz, as i have the same issue with my Alfetta GT. I have tackled the rusty bottom corners of the car but still to start into the inner guards nearest to the fire wall.
Sounds like Kondor knows what he's doing, Hey Kondor PLEASE share.
 

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I panel beat repair patches for top inner fenders and bought replacement structural reinforcement U-channel for the outside inner fender well. Tedious, but cut out all rot back to good steel then butt welded in all the new metal. Ground smooth so it looked invisible. Was tough to get the MIG welding nozzle up under the fender seam but did it by laying down across the engine bay and half blindingly running a bead up there since I had rust all the way up under there that I cut out. So I did all this work without removing fenders. To prevent mud and moisture from sitting and collecting on top of that reinforcement U-channel I first cleaned and then packed the seam tight with seam sealer. Then undercoated the whole area. Seam sealer and undercoat works great ONLY if the the area is first cleaned for a good bond otherwise it can backfire and trap moisture that gets by it. This trick works well in the slash area to prevent mud and dirt getting beyond and rusting your lower fenders and footwells. Just be sure that your sunroof drain line drains properly. I extended mine with some new hose to hang an inch below the car. Simple get a hose with slightly larger diameter and sleeve it around the old hose. Sorry I did not photo document the process.
 

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Oh, and the rusted areas I cut out I used for templates for the patches which, if you look under the hood is not flat - the area has multiple curves up and down and depending how much rust you cut out can be quite complex. With some patience I was able to beat the patch into a shape that matched very nicely and one welded in and ground smooth was invisible.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you Santa...

Any smarter (or more importantly...wrong) sequence to tackle it, would you say?
 

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More thorough method might be to pull the fenders for better access to inner fenders. I like to maintain as much original steel however and it's tough to replicate teh original factory seams at the A-pilar and nose of the car when putting back to gather. I have also seen NOS inner fenders pop up on Ebay but naturally that would be much more involved - perhaps more than necessary since the rust is usually limited to the tops of the inner fenders.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ditto for me re original steel. I will probably sneak up on the problem for starters in order to try to achieve that.

Thanks muchly for input.
 
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