[Biba69]

ToonRBoy, I pretty much explained what I'll be doing/have done on my second from the top post. The 'lip' on the spacer will be machined to the outer edge (58.6 mm) of the outer wheel (see pre sandblasted photo below).

I'm not at all big on using drilled in studs (as opposed to splined wheel studs) since I feel that over the course of a number of years the studs might begin to pull out. Since the hubs will of course be off the car, and after four of the holes on it are welded up, machined and three additional holes drilled, it won't be any problem to simply tap in these studs before installing. The rears will take removing the wheel hubs to remove and replace the studs, but not remotely the hassle as there is on Spider's rear hubs.

 

[ToonRboy]

'Threw me a curveball! & I just caught up (due to wheel pic)!! "Evelyn Woodhead sped reddin' course. My compresion haz improvd one-hunnerd percent!"

 

[Alfaguy35]

We just redrilled the rotors to 4 x 98 using one of the existing holes as the first hole and then drilled three more. We did it on a CNC mill so we knew the holes were in the right location. Don't worry about welding the original 5 X 98 holes as the rotor is cast iron and would probably warp the center where the studs go from all the heat from welding. We have three races on this set up and haven't had any issuses with the rotors.

We did not weld up the four holes from the 5x98 pattern that we didn't use.When the rotor is finnished being machined it has 8 holes in it. We have not had any problems or cracking of the rotors.

 

[Aggie57]

The spigot on the hub does NOT take load. Of course the hub does take load but it's through the face when clamped to the wheel by the nuts/bolts. Essentially the wheel and hub become one unit. All the centre spigot does is centre the wheel.

Lots of stuff on the Interweb about this.

 

[iachella]

The spigot on the hub does NOT take load. Of course the hub does take load but it's through the face when clamped to the wheel by the nuts/bolts

That is how I have always understood it.

 

[ToonRboy]

We did not weld up the four holes from the 5x98 pattern that we didn't use.When the rotor is finnished being machined it has 8 holes in it. We have not had any problems or cracking of the rotors.

I'm glad to hear that! Hope you never do.

I would be more worried about installing new studs in a different pattern on the rotors more than the rear hubs due to how thin they are. I think welding a wire 'round the studs on the backside helps. I suppose the hat/hub being clamped down with the axle nut braces that up pretty good.

Aggie57, I would argue that when you're hub-centric is when "Essentially the wheel and hub become one unit". If you're riding on studs or bolts alone, this is not really achieved. I have a personal experience to prove it. You may too should you come across a nice pothole, railroad tie, or 2" step in the road at speed.

 

[Biba69]

If it hadn't been done so frequently and often considerably more radically before I'd be somewhat leery of having the face (obviously the heaviest part) 20mm (3/4") farther out and centering on the ridge of an aluminum spacer.

As it is, the face of the wheels should be very close to where the face of the Cromodora 5-Stars are and the rear will extend 1/2" (13 mm) farther back since the wheels are 6.5" x 15".

 

[alfettaparts]

Once again I had trouble on the weekend with damaged tires on the front due to my wheels not locating correctly onto the hub. I currently have an inquiery pending at serpent autosport on some custom spacers.

 

[iachella]

Are you saying that when you put your wheels on your hub, they do not center correctly, or do you mean that they move off center after you have been driving or hit a bump?

 

[Biba69]

alfettaparts, it appears as if your front wheel is centered on the hub, or is that not what I'm seeing? Sorry to hear you're having problems. Those are some very wide tires, so I'm sure that everything must be done by the book to insure that they're secure.

 

[Biba69]

Slight update in that I picked up the wheels from the sandblaster, stopped by Discount Tire and ordered the 205/60R15 Michelin Primacy MXV4's. I asked if they could come up with a Summer tire that is quiet and handles well in that size. He came up empty so now it's a done deal except for having them installed/balanced.

When I was there it hit me that I'm somewhat screwed if I get a flat, but remembered alfettaparts open nuts on his car. To explain, to get the spare inside the fender I'll have to pull off the 20 mm spacer which is going to make for very long studs sticking out. Meaning I'll just get a set of wheel nuts like alfettaparts has. I've had one flat in the last 20 or so years...but...

Tonight (after my day job) I JB-Welded all of the curb rash on the wheels - which also included the edges of the center holes - since the center of the wheels aren't at all set back and partially stick out beyond the edge of the wheel rims, which I think is cool, but others might not agree.

The brakes/hubs are sort of on their way.

 

[Aggie57]

I'm glad to hear that! Hope you never do.

I would be more worried about installing new studs in a different pattern on the rotors more than the rear hubs due to how thin they are. I think welding a wire 'round the studs on the backside helps. I suppose the hat/hub being clamped down with the axle nut braces that up pretty good.

Aggie57, I would argue that when you're hub-centric is when "Essentially the wheel and hub become one unit". If you're riding on studs or bolts alone, this is not really achieved. I have a personal experience to prove it. You may too should you come across a nice pothole, railroad tie, or 2" step in the road at speed.

Yeah, I've broken studs and lost wheels as well both on the road and on the track. It's not pleasant but doesn't mean the vertical load is carried by the studs or bolts.

 

[alfettaparts]

My wheels are not seating onto the hub. I am relying on the wheel centering on the studs.
I am in contact with serpent autosport and will have the correct spacers made.

 

[Biba69]

The Milano front brake assemblies were hand delivered today by Larry Jr. They appear to be in great shape, about 3/4 left on the pads and the rotors, while worn, appear to have a lot left on them.

However, thinking it over, since my rotors will need to be drilled for 4x98 I might as well start with new ones...and new Performatek's Carbotech pads.

Out of curiosity, anyone know what the minimum, and stock thicknesses for the Milano brake discs are?

Sigh, in for a penny, in for a pound. I used this version of the saying since my Alfa Teledial's came from the UK and are what started the $nowball rolling, and rolling and...

alfettaparts, I hope Serpent can help you out, though I'm sure they can.

 

[86spider]

Milano / 75 front rotor thickness

ventilated front rotors

new = 22mm
(see pdf)

minimum thickness after grinding = 21mm

max wear thickness = 20mm

 

[Biba69]

Boy are those aluminum Brembo caliper's light. Boy are those ventilated rotors heavy.

I was wondering what the 'extra' bracket with a hole in it on the back of the dust/rain shields. Then I looked closer and saw the serrations inside the shield, figured that it is for the ABS system. Once I get a larger snap ring tool I can pull it, never to go back on.

I was surfing 4 x 98 mm rotors and found some for '80 - '89 Peugeots. Unfortunately they'e only 12.8 mm thick but are 10 5/8" diameter. Why are the Alfa one's so thick? So as to eliminate warping? Bet the Peugeot ones are a lot lighter. If I had tons of spare time and didn't hate bleeding brakes so much, I'd be tempted to get a pair of these rotors assuming I could get thinner caliper spacers, and see how well they held up. I'd also have to have the rotors trimmed down a bit. Though it would be a shame since there is lots of room inside the 15" wheels.

 

[86spider]

Why are the Alfa one's so thick?

More mass, better heat dissipation, and all that goes with it - maybe

 

[Biba69]

That's reassuring. While motorcycles don't weigh as much as cars, but go danm fast, their rotors are almost razor thin. How come?

 

[Biba69]

Separating the front hubs from the discs/rotors: What is the trick, really heat it up? If so I'm sort of screwed since I'm using two wood 4 x 4's to hold the discs up on the press. Meaning I can see the possibility of a bonfire in my shop.

At the same time it sure doesn't appear as if the disc and hub were ever meant to be separated. Everything else on the 'unit' has disassembled fairly easily.

 

[Alfaguy35]

Hub removal

Take the two screws out and the hub should LIFT right off the rotor with the studs facing you.