'This is exactly what we run on the front of our Lemons car. The nice thing about this setup is it uses a common Alfa pad. We do have to run a 10mm spacer to clear the inside of a Momo Vega wheel.
Front brake calipers for an Alfetta GT
I'm being somewhat research lazy here, but would like to know if anyone has installed 'aftermarket' front calipers on their Alfetta GT - and it was not only plug and play, but had considerably better clamping power?
For those not in the US, to us, all Alfetta GT's have 2000 four cylinders. This means that it does not have a ventilated rotor, so the caliper needs to have an appropriate sized opening for the disc.
I don't want to make brackets nor have custom made spacers for the caliper. I'm not saying cost is no object, but if there is enough of an improvement in stopping power so that the caliper is well worth the cost, I'm fine with that.
I'll add that they have to fit inside 14" 5-star wheels.
For those not in the US, to us, all Alfetta GT's have 2000 four cylinders. This means that it does not have a ventilated rotor, so the caliper needs to have an appropriate sized opening for the disc.
I don't want to make brackets nor have custom made spacers for the caliper. I'm not saying cost is no object, but if there is enough of an improvement in stopping power so that the caliper is well worth the cost, I'm fine with that.
I'll add that they have to fit inside 14" 5-star wheels.
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Biba69;1097718. Two things concern me regarding redrilling the Milano hubs: If the holes aren't absolutely precisely drilled said:We ran Milano/GTV6 vented front rotors on our Lemons Alfetta. We just redrilled the rotors to 4 x 98 using one of the existing holes as the first hole and then drilled three more. We did it on a CNC mill so we knew the holes were in the right location. Don't worry about welding the original 5 X 98 holes as the rotor is cast iron and would probably warp the center where the studs go from all the heat from welding. We have three races on this set up and haven't had any issuses with the rotors.
I wouldn't go to a slotted and drilled rotor. Think of the holes in the rotor as a cheese grater and the brake pads as the cheese. We had slotted and drilled rotors on the Lemons car and we couldn't get a day out of a set of pads, it would just tear them up. Went to a Milano/GTV6 rotor with air cooling it and now we're on the third race on the same set of pads and they still have better then 60% pad left and one of those races was the full 24 hour at Reno.
We did not weld up the four holes from the 5x98 pattern that we didn't use.When the rotor is finnished being machined it has 8 holes in it. We have not had any problems or cracking of the rotors.We just redrilled the rotors to 4 x 98 using one of the existing holes as the first hole and then drilled three more. We did it on a CNC mill so we knew the holes were in the right location. Don't worry about welding the original 5 X 98 holes as the rotor is cast iron and would probably warp the center where the studs go from all the heat from welding. We have three races on this set up and haven't had any issuses with the rotors.
Hub removal
Take the two screws out and the hub should LIFT right off the rotor with the studs facing you.
Take the two screws out and the hub should LIFT right off the rotor with the studs facing you.
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