[ToonRboy]

I have high tensile bolts held on with a aluminum plate at the front.

One problem I'm having is my wheels no longer locate on the centre of the hub.

That's because your adapter isn't hub-centric. I suspect that those wheels Iachella has aren't either. Biba, I don't know how you can expect to have good braking when your Master Cylinder is leaking. I don't care if you put M3 brakes on there, it won't stop fer shiite w/leaking M/C.

If you're buying 15" 4x98 wheels, stick with the Alfetta hubs. Wait until the wheels show-up and see how things go. Most likely the centerbore of the wheels will be too small for your hubs, but you can fit them loosely and take some measurements. Order some QUALITY wheel adapters (spacers w/integral studs) in the thickness you want to get the look you're after with PROPER bore size on the back and a PROPER hub lip on the front - in 4x98mm.

That way you don't have to go drilling your hubs or boring-out the wheels. Too much to go wrong. Unless you just wanna look at the car while it's parked. In that case, do what these fellers did.

 

[ToonRboy]

Hey Alfettaparts, you have a georgeous car there (and good looking choice of wrong sized rims), you really should call Charlie and order the right adapters for it - so you can drive real fast without needing a liver transplant!
Hub Adapters and Spacers - Home
I only mention Serpent Autosport because they are the only shop that makes quality adapters and spacers in NA that I know of. Yes, they're not cheap, but you chose the wheels after all...

 

[ToonRboy]

Biba, the wheels don't know whether you use bolts or studs. It's the hub/rotor design. The stock GTV6 has the studs incorporated into the rotor.

Obviously, if you want to use a spacer of 20mm or so, you can run out of stud length for your lug nuts to grab on to. Hubs/Rotors that use lug bolts, have threaded holes in them (instead of studs). This makes fitting custom wheels (which come in varying thicknesses) and adding spacers an easy proposition - just buy longer bolts. No removing hubs, bearings, and pressing out/in studs (e.g. labor co$ts - and once you've got longer studs on there, reverting to the stock wheels makes you car a chariot or a James Bond can opener). However, last winter I saw a guy in a VW (that used wheel bolts) trying to change-out a flat tire and it was not pretty. I had to give him a hand to get the first bolt started. Apparently, one needs a mighty left arm to hold the spare in place while blindly seeking the bolt hole with the right - I suggested to him "try closing your eyes"...

 

[ToonRboy]

Dropped off the wheels today for sandblasting. Yes, they will require a fair amount of fettling + painting.

Where's the pics? Don't tell me you're not going to do a "before and after" Mr. restoration?!

 

[ToonRboy]

Two things concern me regarding redrilling the Milano hubs: If the holes aren't absolutely precisely drilled, the wheels will be out of round. Secondly, since the 5 x 98/4 x 98 openings holes will be so close one another, it seems to me that the four holes should be welded up, then machined down.

I reckon it's time to harp on the wheel stuff again. Biba, you being a fella who drives Alfetta GT as a daily driver, I just have to tip my hat. Since you're going with the Milano set-up in front I can only assume where talking about the rear here. Whether you drill or not, the wheel studs should not be what center the wheel (though we talked about this already w/Alfettaparts) The HUB is what centers the wheel AND takes the loads. Case in point. This 16"x7", 5x100 rim has a 73mm bore.

Aftermarket wheels usually have bigger-than-necessary bore so that they'll fit many different cars. however, they require the use of Hub Centric Centering Rings to be safe.

If you look back at the first pic (white arrow), you'll see that the machinist started to drill these 5x100 rims to 5x98. He stopped. The wall between the bore and the stud holes became too thin and most likely would crack. Put enough load on it and you'll be likely to ruin yours or someone elses day.

The solution in this case? Use the proper hub-centric rings, and wobble bolts. Works like a charm. Her'es a pic with the centering ring dropped-in so you get the picture. If it weren't there, then the studs would bear the load and you would most likely be off-center so that high speed would be dangerous (and like driving a chuck-wagon across the Chisum trail!).

Rather than having to pull your hubs, remove existing studs (so you can use your 20mm spacer), press-in longer ones, then drill-out the wheels to fit 4x98, Why didn't you just order 20 or 25mm Wheel Adapters?

In 20mm the existing studs and nuts would protrude from the adapter, so you would have to make sure the wheel has cavities in the back to accomodate. Most do.

Note that the wheel adapter also has a protruding lip (hub) to fit the wheel bore that you plan to fit. The lugs job is to clamp it on.

 

[ToonRboy]

'Threw me a curveball! & I just caught up (due to wheel pic)!! "Evelyn Woodhead sped reddin' course. My compresion haz improvd one-hunnerd percent!"

 

[ToonRboy]

We did not weld up the four holes from the 5x98 pattern that we didn't use.When the rotor is finnished being machined it has 8 holes in it. We have not had any problems or cracking of the rotors.

I'm glad to hear that! Hope you never do.

I would be more worried about installing new studs in a different pattern on the rotors more than the rear hubs due to how thin they are. I think welding a wire 'round the studs on the backside helps. I suppose the hat/hub being clamped down with the axle nut braces that up pretty good.

Aggie57, I would argue that when you're hub-centric is when "Essentially the wheel and hub become one unit". If you're riding on studs or bolts alone, this is not really achieved. I have a personal experience to prove it. You may too should you come across a nice pothole, railroad tie, or 2" step in the road at speed.

 

[ToonRboy]

Looks like you figured-out how to get the 4x98 studs into the 5x98 Milano rotors! Those wheels actually look pretty good too - nice job!