The 'foot push button' has two functions. A light depression of the button activates a switch to operate the wipers (one sweep); depressing the button all the way draws fluid from the reservoir to spray on the screen. That's how mine works, anyway.
I have the earlier single-speed wiper motor in my car, and have no experience of the 2-speed type. 'Lazy' wipers are a common problem, though; the suspects are a worn-out motor, ancient grease in the gearbox or stiffness in the linkage joints. It's been a long time since these were new!
I think that GTV's have longer wipers than Spiders and the weak motor moves them slowly. There have been plenty of posts on slow wipers that you can read. My experience is that the grease in the wiper motor/ gearbox gets stiff as it ages and slows the wipers. The solution is to remove the wiper motor, open up the gear cover, flush out the old grease and replace it with new grease.
There are two switches in the washer switch. The NO switch closes and powers the fast winding of the motor when the button is pushed. The NC switch opens and disables the (slow) parking circuit while the button is pushed so that you are not energizing the slow and fast circuits at the same time.
All you do is pull the wiper arms then the cowling panel over the top and everything is right there. do you really have to pull the window out to get to it? I don't think so. But I have been wrong before. Just ask my wife.
Also, as someone posted elsewhere, there is a large number of electrical connections (loom, main switch, foot-switch) between motor and battery, each potentially introducing resistance. Cleaning all these can help.
When I press my foot switch both low and high must be engaged because the wipers really take off. That would be one way to get high speed after new grease and maintenance lf it doesn't harm the windings etc.
I rebuilt my motor but have been wondering what to do about the linkage pivot points. If anyone has an idea for how to improve them I would like to see it. I think I saw a post some time ago that looked pretty involved.
It was a bit involved: You need to remove rivets and pull apart the middle crank where the motor is. I made the 4 new sperical bushes (self aligning) on my lathe from oil impregnated synthetic material and reamed to size on the male pins. The posts where the wipers mount also had the same oil impregnated bushing used to reco. It took me about 2.5 - 3 hours, but was cheaper for my client/friend than the new Classic Alfa one.
Are the CA ones no good? Some of the repro parts available are a bit dodgey....
This is Rus on the CT Shoreline. I've been on this forum since January 2010 when I bought a basketcase-with-lipstick 1973 GTV. I had always tuned and worked on my own cars, motorcycles but had never touched a welder, opened a motor past valve adjustments or done much wiring or...
Hey all. I've removed the AC unit from my '74 and am looking to replace with a standard heater. A fellow member offered to sell me a complete box assembly, but it is from a '69 GTV. Can anyone please confirm that it will fit in a 74? I never had the original to compare it to.
I was contemplating purchasing a carpet set in grey for my ‘71 Gtv from classicalfa, they don’t have any carpet samples. Presently I have the original type salt and pepper grey but it has faded in areas. Has anyone purchased a set from them, if so can you post a photo, describe quality, fit and...