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Discussion Starter #1
I can't get the bolts off the flywheel... the front crank pulley I got off while the engine was still in the car. Now it's sitting on an engine stand in the garage. I've tried using a screwdriver in the ring gear to stop it from spinning, and upgraded to wood thru a cylinder hole against the crank.

I'm using a proper breaker bar, and even hitting the breaker bar with a single hand sledge and it won't budge! I just tried a little "Liquid Wrench"... we'll see if that works...

I'm not opposed to using heat, I'm just nervous about doing so on the flywheel and crank...

Any ideas? :confused:
 

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The flywheel bolts have some kind of blue Loctite on them to keep them tight as you are finding out. Best get your self a air gun and have a go at them. They will come right out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Maybe I'll run to sears and get that electric impact wrench... I don't have an air compressor, and I'm not ready to drop the 5-800 required to get one and a decent impact.

You think 250ft-lbs will be enough to break them?
 

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A good way to lock...or at least works for me.....is to take a screw driver and slide it through one of the holes on the side of the flywheel. Then let the shank of the screw driver...or the handle...rest against one of the four studs on the back of the block. Should be 85 ft lbs or so with blue locktite. For what its worth...I couldn't get mine to budge with air impact. So if you are going to sears.....just pick up a good torque wrench and a breaker bar for your regular wrench/socket set.

Best Regards,
John M
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just bought the breaker bar, and bought a good torque wrench before I started this project...

I'll try the screwdriver thing and hope for the best... the problem is the **** engine stand keeps trying to fall over! I'm putting serious torque on it!

:confused:
 

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Putting a bit of heat to the bolts will help free up the loctite, just don't get all goofy and try to heat the things cherry red.

Keep it at a dull roar and make sure you let the heat actually soak in a bit before trying to turn them. (just because the bolt head is too hot to touch doesn't mean the threaded portion is even warm)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I ended up getting them loose by doing the screwdriver in the hole trick.... it took basically all my weight on the end of the breaker bar to *barely* break it loose (after much penetrant). Trouble is, the bottom passenger-side stud bent in the process...

Where should I get another? APE? Or should I just try to replace it with a new one from an industrial fastener shop?
 

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They are easy to get out and reinstall with the proper flywheel holding tool. Available from DRDON here on the BB.
Gordon Raymond
 

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Just straighten it back Mike.

Best Regards,
John M
 

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I'm sure I have one somewhere. Pull the stud, measure, LOA, + threaded sections, + unthreaded section, and I'll dig around. Send me a PM.
Best, Gordon Raymond
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just straighten it back Mike.
I got it pretty close using a block of wood and my trusty mini-sledge. I'm just worried about it lining up properly when I go to reinstall the motor, since I left the transmission installed. Fixing this while the engine is hanging from the lift would suck. :)

Gordon, I'll see if I can get it straight enough. If not, I'll send you the info.
 

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I think straight ones must be very rare. The short block I bought had several bent studs. I got replacements from a couple of sources and all are bent to varying degrees. I chose the straightest ones :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sweet! So basically I took some rare parts and effectively destroyed their rareness... awesome! :D
 

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Mike...Mike....Mike.

Young grasshopper. Fear not. Just get it as straight as you can for now. It will not, shall not be a big deal to align one or all for that matter. You have not destroyed anything. How can I say this....you are making a mountain out of a grain of sand.:D Leave the stud alone and get the motor apart. Absolute waste of time to replace it unless its snapped off.:D

Best Regards,
John M
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah... i'll just keep that mini-sledge handy while reinstalling the motor to "straighten" it further. :)

Block is at the shop now! yay!

You should have seen the look on the machine shop guy's face when he came with me to get the block... out of the rear trunk of my Boxster. :eek:

I can't believe it only weighs like 40-50lbs! It's amazingly light!
 
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