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Discussion Starter #101 (Edited)
EPI-AIR DUCT again

I have to say a few more words about this, because it is so thrilling to see the results. Temp measuring showed very promising values, but as done with the contactless laser gauge I was not quite satisfied. These results vary a lot depending on where exactly you point at.

I wanted to know more about the air flow, so I made a short scientific experiment. The measuring points were chosen in "X" form, center and four corners.The lower corners were at the hight of the lowest shutter flap not at the bottom of the radiator.

Set up was static of course. Engine revs 1000, 1500 and with airduct 2000. Before the experiment I thought the flow rate would go up all over the radiator section, but it went up in the upper corners mainly. The center did not change much, which appears logical after finding out. Right in front of the fan, there is no false air coming from the sides, the easiest way for the air is through the radiator. The more you move out, the higher the content of false air is.

Also interesting, although understandable , the poor results in the lower area of the radiator, I presume that the lower 5-10 cms of the radiator are completely out of operation, when the car is standing.

As Mark said, if the gain of efficiency still is too small, one could build an air duct covering the full surface of the radiator.

Simplified calculation: the air flow jumps from 2 m/sec to 3,7 m/sec at idling, based on fan diameter the volume increases from 13.400 liters/min to 23.800 liters/min (80%) this explains, why the radiator output is so much better when the car is standing.


By the way, the device now is approved up to 190 km/h on the Autobahn.

Hubert
 

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Discussion Starter #103 (Edited)
It is growing. Did some welding and fitting, welds have to be planished and cleaned yet.

The lip is due to fine adjustment as well, but this has to wait until the other rear wing is done and the boot lid fixed.

Next step will be to get the hinges of the boot lid in the right position.

Hubert
 

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I'm a little surprised after going through this amazing thread showing such a exhaustive restoration that you are leaving that pitting on the left rear guard. What is the plan there? Lead?

You are very skilled and I am in envy of the tools you have access to!
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #105 (Edited)
I'm a little surprised after going through this amazing thread showing such a exhaustive restoration that you are leaving that pitting on the left rear guard. What is the plan there? Lead?

You are very skilled and I am in envy of the tools you have access to!
Pete
Pete,
I had been thinking about the pitting for quite a while. The pits do not go through and although it may look different, I try to keep as much of the original substance as possible. If I would replace that area, I would have to rebuild the complete fin. I should have better made a complete wing then (or use the spare one). To answer your question, my plan is to fill them with solder, but I will consult the paint shop before.

The pitting on the other side is worse, I think I will have to replace some areas there. You will see photos.

I have a little "tool addiction". My strategy for the last 30 years (especially during my student years) was, if something had to be repaired (on my every day driver), don´t have it made in a shop, save that money and spend it for the tools and do the job yourself. Many things gathered in my shop in this time.

Regarding the heavy tools I am lucky having a milling machine and a lathe in the company. Currently I am thinking of buying a 3D-printer, for company purposes of course. But it would make reproduction of door handles or mirror parts much easier. I could make the moulds and patterns for casting on my own then. Problem is to find an application in the company that justifies the investment.

To use the spot welder in the wheel housing I had to make special arms for it. I could have bought some more or less suitable ones for 250 Euro, instead I paid 40 Euro for the copper rod and made perfect ones for this task.

Hubert
 

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I understand and agree with you regarding tools. I've found that making little tools or jigs can make a job considerably easier and actually save time. Now my little tools or jigs are not necessarily pretty but they do the job and often are cut up later and turned into something else.

I look forward to being able to one day purchase a small lathe for my now bigger shed. I used to have access to one but no more and I really miss it :(.

I will continue to watch your progress with interest and admiration.
Pete
 

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Hi Hubert,

I've been enjoying your thread for some time now having recently completed the restoration of my Flaminia GT i can really appreciate what you are doing. Your skill and attention to detail is amazing. Well done.

I see you are now selling your radiator cowling via a trader in the Netherlands (they are even using your pictures in this thread to market them). Is it possible to get one from you?

Regards
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #108 (Edited)
Project on hold

Please allow a couple of pics only indirectly related to the Bugatti-Wagen. I will move the shop to a new location. Car projects have to wait until the renovation works are completed. The shop will be located in the hall, the barn will be the parking lot.

Promise to turn back to car related topics next time;)
 

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What a beautiful workshop! And location. I love those windows.

I am moving mine too, but the buliding is tin, not brick.
 

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Fantastic ! This will be like a more intimate version of La Cavalleria of Mario Bernardi in Hann. Münden.

In the workshop I strongly recommend that you consider adding hydronic radiant heating tubes in the floor, within a thin leveling pour of new concrete. I have this in my new garage/workshop, and the added comfort in winter is unbelievable. For fast recovery when a door is opened, I also added an air heater with fan running off the same boiler. The heated slab must be carefully insulated, however, or heat loss to the surrounding structure can get expensive.

Also, polyaspartic floor finish is vastly better than epoxy.

Best wishes,
Don
 

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I need to move back to Germany with the cars and get something like this. What am I doing in LA anyway?

Great property!

Mike
 

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As an Architects what sould I say ...
Brilliant Tedesco!
Perhaps I will make you once a visit ,its not so far from Nürnberg.
 

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Hubert,

That is fantastic. The installation appears to be very professional. The loops are closer together than typical here in the US, so it uses more tubing but you will have more consistent warmth.

If you will have a two-post lift it would be wise to install the anchor bolts before your pour. Drilling into a hydronic floor is excitement better avoided, although it can be done with the help of a thermal imager.

May I ask what type of sheet material was used underneath ? Does it insulate ?

For my garage in a cold place (Vermont) I also installed a hot air blower using the same Viessmann boiler as for the floor tubing, thinking that it would be necessary for quick recovery after I opened a door. It has proven to be completely unnecessary, a wasted investment. The warm floor heats everything in the room, so the introduction of a bit of cold air from opening a door has surprisingly little effect within my well-insulated structure.

Another suggestion that I think would make you happy is to utilize T5HO fluorescent lighting, as used in many car assembly plants. In a garage of 117 square meters I have ten fixtures, each with four 54w T5HO tubes under a clear polycarbonate cover. The illumination is spectacular - it is often much brighter inside my garage than outside ! It is best to have multiple switches to be able to utilize only the fixtures needed, as the power consumption can be formidable even though the tubes are extremely efficient.

Best wishes,
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #115 (Edited)
Don, thanks for the comments.

In pic 4 you see a square in front of the wooden posts. That is a base plate made of 40 cms of reinforced concrete without disturbing tubes or any other installation. I chose a base-frame-free two post lift with lifting motor at each of the posts. These are electronically synchronized. I will post pictures of it.

The layout of the heating provides the maximum possible warmth from the technical side. Due to the age of the building I want to have as much power reserve as possible. I am quite sure that the system is oversized. Meanwhile I found out that the walls are "double shell" type with an air space in between. Serves as insulation. The ceiling has an insulation (old) as well. But it is ugly, I will replace that in a later step.

The ground is covered by insulation panels. http://www2.basf.de/en/produkte/plastics/schaum/styrodur_startpage.htm
The gate will be replaced by an insulated one, so that only the windows will remain as warmth leaks. I will keep the old windows, because they are responsible for the character of the building, but if really necessary there is space to have better ones installed from inside additionally.

There are five light circuits.

1+2: 2 times 4 tubes above the work benches

3+4: There will be one technical workplace (the lift) and one panel beating workplace. Each of them is illuminated with four 50W LED-lights, one switch per workplace. There is "warm white" and "cold white" available. Warm white is comfortable for the eye and cold white is extremely bright. I equipped each workplace with 2 of each, so it is bright and cosy at the same time. (That´s contradictory, but you know what I mean)

5: The other areas are lighted by another 4 50W warm white LED-lights.

Hufo, Technoclassica in Essen always is an opportunity, I am about 40 kms away from there, and there will be a stand of Lancia Club Deutschland.

Best reagrds
Hubert
 

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Hubert,

Many thanks for your interesting reply. I had been wondering about that "island" among the tubes. The same type of XPS insulation panels are used in the US, under my garage floor 4 inches thick.

The old windows really are beautiful, and I imagine that they will be OK if air infiltration can be controlled, especially if they face south. Perhaps there is some way to use insulated shutters or shades to limit heat loss at night.

I hope that you will be happy with the LED lights. Throughout my house I used different types, all 2700K (warm). They give a good effect, but some experimentation is necessary to find the right dimmer. In the garage I wanted more even lighting throughout the space, which the long tube fixtures provide, as compared with the concentrated points of light typical of LEDs.

Before you pour the slab you might want to consider installing some lights in the floor, shining upward under the lift.

This will be really a beautiful place.

Best regards,
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #117 (Edited)
Don,

you are right, the tubes give the best light for workplaces, especially regarding your own shadow when you are leaning over your work. That is why I have them above the work benches. I had some talk with my electrician about the light emission of the different types of lights. He told me that a 54W tube would emit 4700 lumen whereas the 50 W LED would bring 4300 lumen. Considering the directed emission of the LED and the "all around" emission of the tube, the LED provides higher light concentration in the lighted area, even if you use reflectors on the tubes as well.

But the aspect which led to my decision is far away from light emission figures and shadows. I wanted to have as small units as possible, best would have been invisible ones.

What I will do, is place a bench and a garden table in front of the shed, and do the work outside in the sunlight.

If the LED lights will not do well, I will replace them by tubes and use them as illumination of the barn instead.

And the floor lights? They died before they were born. I was a bit careless and told my wife about this gorgeous idea, in a kind of subordinate clause(?). Her peek was beyond words, when she said something not so pleasant meaning "enough is enough". So I decided to keep the floor as a floor and not more. Harmony among the family is so important:smile2::smile2::smile2:, especially knowing that my wife could have asked me to have a sweet little holiday cottage at the shore of Lago di Como instead of this weird "Farm".

Best regards

Hubert
 

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Hubert,

Ah yes, with the raised eyebrow we perceive our limits. But in my experience, six months later she will ask 'where are those lights you were going to install, they would have been a good idea ?'

On the shores of Como there are many fine hotels, but where else can a man work in a shop like this ?

Best regards,
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #119
The Bugatti-Wagen has arrived at its new home

No welding, milling, drilling yet, but at least my cars have arrived at "The Farm".

Restoring an old building needs different skills than doing the same with a car, but on an abstract level you are running the same curve.

Have to show the Flavia, too!

Tomorrow the lift will be installed. I wonder if I will be able to do all the gearbox changes etc. without lying on a cold dirty floor holding it on my belly, adjusting it with the knees, the wrench between my teeth.

Will keep you informed. :thumbup:
 

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Hubert, you are getting soft. There is nothing like balancing a gearbox, or even better a transaxle on your chest whilst lying on a dusty garage floor and feeling for that spanner you knew you put down just beside you.
I am extremely jealous, that workshop looks superb.
 
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