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`61 Giulietta Spider, `65 Giulia Ti 1750, `69 GT junior 1600, `73 Spider 2000, `74 GTV 2000, `98 156
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Just as well you are welding and hammering Hubert - keeps you warm and you Germans are tough, aren`t you? I thought you chaps that live where it gets really cold in winter would have some form of heating in workshops? How do panel beating or car workshops get on in winter when the temps really drop?
I presume you are going to let extra metal in to make up those gaps after correction of the wing rear? How is that going to affect the fitment of the boot panel? I`ve been there before and you end up correcting one thing after another because of each panels relationship to the next - a bit like chasing your tail.
The car is looking great though. I sometimes reignite my enthusiasm by looking at the photos as it was and the bits I have already done because you do forget and sometimes it seems as though you are getting nowhere. Keep up the fantastic work.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
When enthusiasm is running through your veins, you do not notice the temperature. My rooms are part of a hundred year old factory, which is out of operation for forty years now. The old heating has been removed some day in the past. I only rent the rooms and therefore am hesitating to have a new heating installed. Today temp was 6°C, enough to start sweating:).

Where possible I chisel the panels out and hope to be able to weld them with very little filling material. In other places I use an angle grinder with 1 mm discs. I will have to use filling rod there. Will report when coming to that point.

I don´t want to fix the wing before having solved the lower rear panel connection issue. The boot lid has to be fitted too, but one of the hinges is broken, so the panel holding the hinges has to be made first . . .

See pics how I approached this chapter.

Hubert
 

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Hubert the more I see of your restoration the more admiration I have for you. I have gone over this thread time and time again because of my admiration for the Flaminias and the work you have performed -That is a monumental restoration which really is the kind only tackled by professionals and your end product appears to be as good. Essentially a tens of thousands of Euros job if you didn`t do it yourself. Absolutely fantastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
Thanks for the friendly words. Right now the parts have been removed only. Let us see how rebuilding will turn out. But you are right Richard, having that job done would cost much more than the commercial value of the car will be afterwards

A friend of mine came over from Vienna this week. We wanted to do some weighing and balancing on the pistons and conrods for his Flaminia Convertibile.http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/other-italian-cars/270217-flaminia-touring.html

We ended up with a weight difference of 0,1 g for the pistons, the pins(Bolzen) were ok (difference 0,2 g ). The conrods (Pleuel) needed some attention. Started with a max difference of 4 g and a center of gravity difference of almost 1 mm. Ended up with a difference of 1g and +-0,25 mm of balance point difference.

Went out for the first open ride this year.

Hubert
 

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Discussion Starter #66
The upper traverse and the top panel are ready. Pictures show parts before final trimming. The top panel of the traverse is convex from front of car to rear and concave from left to right.

I used the English wheel for the convex curve, resulting also in a convex shape from left to right. That was not what I intended. I folded the edges to 90° and used the shrinker to turn back the cross directional convex to concave. Do you know a frog in a panel? (a buckle jumping back and forth). It drives you crazy!!!

Now the spare wheel recess is in progress. Originally made of only two panels, I have to make each half out of two pieces.

Hubert
 

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Wow, panels like this are very difficult to make in one piece - it`s not until you try to replicate that you find out how difficult. I`m impressed - I`d have made it in three parts probably- using my gas welder to connect each to the other and just filed and planished to get right.You`re professional standard undoubtedly. Car should be fantastic when finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
The spare wheel pocket is almost finished. Gas welded the two parts of each shell, and planished them with the pneumatic hammer. Also fitted some couplings to the air hoses of the hammer, so I can use it at the steel table or at the car.

Copied the reinforcement embossing of one shell free hand. That has to do for the moment.

Hubert
 

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Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
No new panels this week, but I am making some moulds for the reinforcing seams of the trunk floor. Of course none of them is like the other. When I counted correctly, there are 11 different shapes to be found (including the seats for the two covers and the groove for the fuel pipe) and I want them all as close to the original as possible.

Hubert
 

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Hubert, have you got your own milling machine as well? What material is the mould? Some kind of hard plastic, or aluminium ( I see no cutting lubricant required)? Great idea though for something like that surface. Is the mill CAD, or have you just transferred the measurements onto the cut piece manually and used manual control to follow your pattern drawn on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Richard, the milling machine belongs to my company. It is CAD and I wrote the programs myself. In the first machining picture I was only scratching the surface at very low speed in order to see if the program is correct, so no lubricant was needed. In the second picture you see that there is plenty of lubricant/coolant.

The straight lines could have been made by manual control, but the radiuses can not be made manually with that machine.

The raw material is the most simple mild steel, sheet thickness 10 mms, so I can use both sides.

On Monday I hope to finish one or two of the bigger moulds. I am really excited how it will turn out. You will see photos.

Hubert
 

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Discussion Starter #74 (Edited)
Most of the moulds are ready, so I started embossing. It works very well, I like the precision of the embossings. An additional advantage is that there is very few distortion in the panel.

Made some mistakes in the programs leading to some off way milling, but I am improving, only crashed two milling cutters so far;). The machine only has a working range of 40 cms. I had to shift the bigger plates and program in two steps.

I started stamping with a wooden hammer, then refined the shape by means of a wooden "chisel", which I made out of a hammer shaft. Then i used special "chisels" I made out of aluminium. They do not leave sharp markings on the surface of the panel, but have to be reshaped every five minutes.

Found a five digit number on the old floor panel. It is not the spare part number. Does anyone have an idea?

Hubert
 

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Hello Hubert,

This is fantastic work. It is a joy for me to see this and know that I will not need to pay for the privilege.

I suspect that your five digit number is a Pininfarina body assembly number, which is different from the chassis number. This is common on coachbuilt Italian cars. If you can find the same number on other parts, for example doors, splash panels, the back of trim, in chalk on interior panels, that is the reason.

Don
 

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Hubert, I just noticed that spare wheel well you made doesn`t appear to have any drain holes at the bottom. Did Lancia/Pininfarina not have this? It would seem desirable even if it is a departure from absolute originality to have some kind of drain in the bottom of that flange. Easy to do if you haven`t joined those two halves yet, and not too hard if already joined by spot welding by using a rounded nose rod to force between the flange halves and then hammer formed around.
 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
Richard, thanks for the hint.

Did some fine tuning on the spare wheel well, (applied the drain hole and trimmed the edges) and continued embossing. Now only two pictures and the fuel pipe grove are missing. Milled the grove mould with a hemispherical cutter, cute!

Removed the panel behind the back seats and discovered that the frame of the rear window also is bad. I will have to cut it out, too. If cutting off continues, the roof will be gone soon. I should put the whole thing together as a "one off" Flaminia barchetta then, shouldn´t I? (Well, it would be more of a barca, than a barchetta). The only thing needed in this case would be a reliable story of e.g. Brigitte Bardot had it made for her Cote d´Azure travels, or so.

Hubert
 

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