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"My interest was for the wagon, which only reaches 320km/h (198,8 mph). See pics."



If you fold in the mirrors it's good for another 1-2 mph at those speeds...don't ask how I know....
 

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Discussion Starter #322
Engine rebuild

A club mate asked about an engine rebuild for his early Coupé. It is a 1959 showing some interesting details like brake booster only for front wheels.

A good opportunity to take the "Bugatti-Wagen" engine from the shelf and do a twin rebuid, supplemented by a Flavia engine rebuild for my first Flavia, which now belongs to a good friend.

The engine is blocked, outside full of oil and dirt. When removing the drain hose leading from block to radiator, the banjo bolt broke. The opening of the heater control valve is full of yellow/white solid. Most likely the complete water chambers will be full as well. This is typical for the Flaminia engine, but I do not really know, what it is. Result of a long term chemical reaction of the cooling liquid or result of some chemical reaction with the aluminum of the block.

Does anyone know?

Hubert
 

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Discussion Starter #323 (Edited)
EPI Hexadecimal Extractor

There are stories all around the world telling what an effort it was getting the heads off a Flaminia or Aurelia engine. I have seen cracked heads, heads cut into pieces, cut off studs, battered head and block surfaces. The methods chosen to get the job done sometimes are beyond description.

And now the fabulous EPI hexadecimal extractor enters the stage. But before the head is removed, the flywheel and the vibration damper/pulley have to be disassembled. To fix the crank, a handmade tooth bracket was used. After that the small studs holding the valve cover were unscrewed with a special tool. You may do this with two countered nuts but sometimes you will spoil the stud doing so.



Hubert
 

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Discussion Starter #324 (Edited)
EPI Hexadecimal Extractor II

The EPI hexadecimal extractor had been made a couple of years ago.

The idea behind it is, spread the force applied to as many spots as possible and avoid tilting of the head while going up. I designed the item so that it could utilize the lower parts of the rocker arm supports and their fixing studs. After turning the bolts down hand tight, they are further turned down by a half turn one after the other. The head will come up slowly but gently.

You have to act carefully and ensure that the head is not tilting, but very quickly the dust will start gushing out of the holes and the head will come up. This time all sixteen studs were blocked, highscore!!!

Hubert
 

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A club mate asked about an engine rebuild for his early Coupé. It is a 1959 showing some interesting details like brake booster only for front wheels.

A good opportunity to take the "Bugatti-Wagen" engine from the shelf and do a twin rebuid, supplemented by a Flavia engine rebuild for my first Flavia, which now belongs to a good friend.

The engine is blocked, outside full of oil and dirt. When removing the drain hose leading from block to radiator, the banjo bolt broke. The opening of the heater control valve is full of yellow/white solid. Most likely the complete water chambers will be full as well. This is typical for the Flaminia engine, but I do not really know, what it is. Result of a long term chemical reaction of the cooling liquid or result of some chemical reaction with the aluminum of the block.

Does anyone know?

Hubert
It seems that the Flaminia engine is very sensitive to coolant chemistry. When Omicron restored my 2.8 convertible in 2012, they used 4-Life (a/k/a Forlife), purportedly a 10-year coolant made in the UK. Within five years, this product had eaten through an alloy lower hose connector and left hard crystalline deposits that were fortunately fresh enough to flush (photos). Where the product leaked into the engine compartment it corroded electrical connections.

We have refilled with Fuchs Maintain Fricofin and all is well again.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #327 (Edited)
It seems that the Flaminia engine is very sensitive to coolant chemistry. When Omicron restored my 2.8 convertible in 2012, they used 4-Life (a/k/a Forlife), purportedly a 10-year coolant made in the UK. Within five years, this product had eaten through an alloy lower hose connector and left hard crystalline deposits that were fortunately fresh enough to flush (photos). Where the product leaked into the engine compartment it corroded electrical connections.

We have refilled with Fuchs Maintain Fricofin and all is well again.

Don
Don,

important info, thanks for it! Inspired by your pics, in the future I will post my pics in full size, too :thumbup1:

Hubert
 

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this coolant discussion has come up on other forums lately too. i have been wondering about switching to a g11 or g12 like vw uses. these are anti-phosphate, anti-amine, and anti-phosphorous coolants. it's been mentioned not to switch back and forth between coolants the contain silicates as there could be some reaction or releasing of a silicate affected layer within the engine.
the thought about the g11/g12 is from thinking about the way it seems to work so well with the aluminum components. i don't see any of the typical corrosion i've seen with the regular ethylene glycol based coolants.
i would think a thorough flushing of the system must be done before changing to prevent cross contamination of the coolants if it were decided to change.
does anyone have any experience using these types of coolants?
 

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Wanted a GT in 2.8 3C, but when I read all of this ... I wonder if it's a good idea !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #330
It definitely is! Choose a well kept example or a car that has ben restored by Flaminia experts and you will enjoy every meter. My GT 3C made Gran Premio Nuvolari (a 3500 km trip from my residence to Mantova and back home) twice



Hubert
 

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this coolant discussion has come up on other forums lately too. i have been wondering about switching to a g11 or g12 like vw uses. these are anti-phosphate, anti-amine, and anti-phosphorous coolants. it's been mentioned not to switch back and forth between coolants the contain silicates as there could be some reaction or releasing of a silicate affected layer within the engine.
the thought about the g11/g12 is from thinking about the way it seems to work so well with the aluminum components. i don't see any of the typical corrosion i've seen with the regular ethylene glycol based coolants.
i would think a thorough flushing of the system must be done before changing to prevent cross contamination of the coolants if it were decided to change.
does anyone have any experience using these types of coolants?
G12 (and maybe G11) are organic acid technology (OAT). It's fine for aluminum but is incompatible with the copper and brass components used in older cars.

With one car in which halting corrosion was a primary concern (Maserati A6), Evans waterless seemed to work well.


PS: Just investigated and realized that the Fuchs coolant installed by my shop is OAT. Need to look into this incompatibility issue.
 

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G12 (and maybe G11) are organic acid technology (OAT). It's fine for aluminum but is incompatible with the copper and brass components used in older cars.

With one car in which halting corrosion was a primary concern (Maserati A6), Evans waterless seemed to work well.


PS: Just investigated and realized that the Fuchs coolant installed by my shop is OAT. Need to look into this incompatibility issue.
please let us know what you find. i don't think fuchs is available here, but i'm sure there are others producing similar products. i'm currently using glycol based coolant and haven't seen anything alarming but i'm always curious about things like this. i know of another lancia owner using the evans coolant that reports good performance, although slightly higher running temps.
 

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please let us know what you find. i don't think fuchs is available here, but i'm sure there are others producing similar products. i'm currently using glycol based coolant and haven't seen anything alarming but i'm always curious about things like this. i know of another lancia owner using the evans coolant that reports good performance, although slightly higher running temps.
The technically savvy shop owner who installed the Fuchs coolant conducted his own research after I raised my concern about OAT with him, and concluded that it should be replaced with "green conventional coolant". I use this in all of my other older collector cars on a three year replacement cycle, so I'm happy to do so.
 

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Discussion Starter #334 (Edited)
New seals for brake booster

While driving and servicing my cars I always was a little bit unhappy about the quality of the seal kits for main brake cylinder and servo. The material available works fine when new, but after four to five years they fail, no matter if you drove the car or not. Most obvious is that the booster starts leaking towards the vacuum chamber, but the brake performance goes down as well.

Time to do some homework on seals. This is the result:



Admitted, they do not look much different, but the seals are made of an absolutely superior material compared to the ones available elsewhere. Several test runs were made to get them work perfectly.


First field tests have been completed successfully, but will do some more on the Flavia.

If you want to participate, let me know.

Hubert
 

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A new Great addition to the Community.
 

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Ho acquistato e montato da due giorni sulla mia coupé 2800 un kit gommini pompa e gommini servofreno commerciali.... Non ho ancora neanche messo il liquido.... A saperlo prima....
 

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Hubert we would be interested to have as a spare for our `63 Flavia 1.8 Coupe.
 

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Ho acquistato e montato da due giorni sulla mia coupé 2800 un kit gommini pompa e gommini servofreno commerciali.... Non ho ancora neanche messo il liquido.... A saperlo prima....
?p, hp mai avuto pb con questi tipi di kit.
 

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È la prima volta che li uso. Li ho comprati da cavallitto a Torino. Due anni fa ho fatto revisionare la pompa da un meccanico, ha usato la marca che vedi in foto. Non mi ha però cambiato i gommini delle valvole di riempimento, uno si è poi rotto dando problemi. Erano comunque gonfi quando li ho tolti. Il servofreno non era mai stato revisionato. Non perdeva olio, ma ho voluto revisionare tutto da solo questa volta.... Pinze comprese.
 

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Discussion Starter #340 (Edited)
Signori,

mi dispiace, ma io non parlo italiano.

Giovanni

I think, I do understand your message. Sorry for posting the information too late.

Hubert
 
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