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Discussion Starter #265 (Edited)
Finished the assembly set, including reinforced holes. Spent a few moments on how the holes were arranged on the original and came to the conclusion that the work instruction at Pininfarina was: "Punch eight holes, no matter where, but stay on the panel". So did I.

Assembled with magnets so far.

Hubert
 

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Discussion Starter #268 (Edited)
To spot weld in the hidden corners a set of fingers had to be made. Went a simple way by bending two pins in the vice instead of making longer arms. Now all structural components are in place, there is little bit of flange remaining to be able to do final trimming and the skin is waiting to be welded to the frame. The passenger door underwent an inspection in order to see if the same treatment will be necessary.

We will see.
 

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Discussion Starter #271
Door done

Half a day was spent on fitting the skin to the frame, edge trimming in short steps in order not to spoil the whole work by cutting away too much and a lot of time was spent on hesitating. Mounted the frame to the body then fixed the skin and welded a couple of spots. I have handled the piece for such a long time and did so much to it, that I could feel the transformation when frame and skin came together. All of a sudden it was heavy, extremely rigid and finally a Flaminia door again. Good feeling!

Next item will be the sill. Luckily there is this perfect template and the sketches which had been made in Vienna. But ran out of material, will have to get some new first. Instead work on an Euro-American-Hemi-stump was started. The "Euro-Hemi" is already finished. The wood seems to be not ideal but worthwhile a trial.

Hubert
 

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Hubert you will find that stump extremely useful. I use mine for roughing out shapes very quickly, and for a lot of shrinking work. Wouldn`t be without it. I also have an oblong shape in mine in addition to the two bowls I see in yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #275
Hubert you will find that stump extremely useful. I use mine for roughing out shapes very quickly, and for a lot of shrinking work. Wouldn`t be without it. I also have an oblong shape in mine in addition to the two bowls I see in yours.
Richard, we learned to use the stump for shaping and shrinking at the seminar where I made the Jaguar rear fender shown some comments above. I think it is a good idea to have an oblong mould as well. Fortunately there are some more untreated stumps in the barn, will keep one or two of them to make different moulds for the next project.

Ok,I understood. It's for shape the corner of sill? Are you using 1 mm thickness?
Giovanni, the stump is for making different round shapes, one special use is shrinking, as Richard said. The work plan for the sill is to do the vertical curve on the English Wheel, the straight horizontal bend on the brake, the curved horizontal bends on the bead roller and the front and rear ends on the bead roller as well. I will see if it works when trying it. 0,88 mm sheet wil be used.

Hubert
 

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Discussion Starter #276
Prototyping

It has been reported several times about all the curved, nonparallel and otherwise special lines of the Coupé. They have been rebuilt as precise as possible but especially at the rockers they will not be noticed at first sight. But the sill is important. At least it is one of the panels I look at first, when I want to judge how body work was executed. Almost all rebuilt Coupés have more or less awfully made sills.

I have decided to make a prototype first, in order to see how it comes out.

As posted before there is a fragment of an unmolested rocker panel and there are some sketches. First the existing part has been copied onto a piece of paper. Then the curved lines have been interpolated towards front and rear of the part. Next the sketches for front and rear end have been incorporated in the drawing. Four sections have been defined: 1. lower flange, 2. bottom of the sill (the part that will be parallel to the ground) 3. the side and 4. the upper flange.

After completion, the drawing only showed one straight line, that is the bend of the lower flange. The bottom (2) has a straight corner to the lower flange but varies(?) towards the side (3) at the rear it is narrow then becomes wider towards the front end and gets a bit narrower again on the last 30-40 cms. It is obvious that you cannot produce the bend on a brake. The side has a crown added to the basic horizontal curve the body has.

Work plan: 1. transfer the drawn shape to the sheet, no matter how odd it appears to be, 2. cut as precise as possible, 3. Bend the lower flange on the brake in order to give the panel some stiffness, it is 1,9m long. 4. Wheel the crown of the side, 5. Bend the edge between bottom and side on the bead roller, 6. Rectify where necessary, 7. Bend the upper flange on the bead roller, 8. Be frustrated, 9. Throw it in the bin, 10. Have a beer

For the moment, I left out steps 7 to 9, directly went to step 10 because up to now there no reason to throw it away.

Hubert

PS: pic 5, fixed with magnets only, just to check if it fits
 

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Discussion Starter #278
Recycling

Since making the octopus there was the idea of putting it on a rack in order to make it more versatile. Instead of making one myself, I abused an old drawing board, very heavy thing, tiltable and adjustable in height. The door sill is not a good example to display the features and yet I have to find an application for full height:confused1:

Anyway, not much time to spend on the Bugattiwagen at the moment.

Hubert
 

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