While working on the engine, a power meter of the mid seventies was offered to me. Hesitated first, wrong colour, but the huge gauge got me finally. Basically it is an eddy current brake, fully analog. It was part of the inventory of a vocational school and has only been used a few times.
Any ideas out there of how to operate this thing?
It requires a water connection for cooling the brake, so where shall it be placed?
that's an amazing find. coupling to it may prove to be interesting, and sometimes the old analog control systems can be drifty till you get the dust off the circuits.
hopefully you got the manuals with it, i just love figuring out stuff like that, i wish i lived down the street from you...
if it's like other water brakes i think the water does more than cooling, it may be used as a hydraulic fluid.
maybe the people here can help, https://www.dynamometer-world.com/index.php/reconditioned-dynamometers/horiba-schenck-wt470.html
that's an amazing find. coupling to it may prove to be interesting, and sometimes the old analog control systems can be drifty till you get the dust off the circuits.
hopefully you got the manuals with it, i just love figuring out stuff like that, i wish i lived down the street from you...
if it's like other water brakes i think the water does more than cooling, it may be used as a hydraulic fluid.
maybe the people here can help, https://www.dynamometer-world.com/index.php/reconditioned-dynamometers/horiba-schenck-wt470.html
Unfortunately there is no documentation coming with the water brake. I spent a few minutes on where to put it today and untangled the cables of the control cabinet. Four or five temp sensors, two of them quite fat. The small ones feed the gauges going to 140°C max, can be used for water and oil of the tested engine I think. The two bigger sensors feed the rectangular gauges going up to 900°C. Am I going to measure the exhaust gas temperature with them? What for? To find out that the engine is running to lean and preparing for melt down?
The square meter in the middle is a rev counter.
Then there is a manual load lever probably to identify the force performed at a certain rev value. A modification has been made here. The lever can be moved back and forth by means of a small motor. This you can control via a cord based remote control with a fairly long cable.
Wonder if the guys back in the day were afraid of setting the beast free and therefore took shelter in a far remote corner of the shop while running a test. Would explain the size of the main gauge by the way:grin2::grin2::grin2::grin2::grin2:
I have a vision!
The take up frame has to be resized for Flaminia as maximum size engine. Will have a couple of connection flanges made for Flaminia, Flavia and Fulvia. That will do for the moment.
And it has to come off the pallet! (had that topic before)
i could see exhaust temp sensors for diesel engines to help set the maximum fuel from the pump. maybe the class had a runaway engine at one time and the long remote became sensible.
i'd lose that green color. later production schenck had a very nice industrial grey that would look great. not the light grey of electrical panels, but a darker shade.
i could see exhaust temp sensors for diesel engines to help set the maximum fuel from the pump. maybe the class had a runaway engine at one time and the long remote became sensible.
i'd lose that green color. later production schenck had a very nice industrial grey that would look great. not the light grey of electrical panels, but a darker shade.
Will show some pics of the sensors, maybe we can discuss how to install them and what for. Not familiar with Diesel engines up to now (and I am seriously planning to leave it that way)
A pity that block corrosion. Maybe it could be saved so, that after the hole(s) is welded, a careful cleaning and then coating of the inside of water chamber with some kind of epoxy?
As for the coolant issues, coolant is fairly cheap and fairly easy to replace once in two or three years, so I wouldn't bother with any fancy "eternal" liquids, unless they are really known and tested good. I think the main reason for the corrosion of Flaminia engines is neglect and nothing else. Worn-out or non-existing rust inhibitor, aluminum engine and different other metals in cooling system will not be nice for the sacrificial metal, which in this case happens to be aluminum...
welcome here! Fully agree on what you say, but with my engine now things are as they are. Welding should be possible, but the shown hole is only the place where it corroded most. There are other areas in various states of destruction. Will come back to engine when working on the Flaminia again.
BTW, there are plans to reproduce the wire sleeves of the Flaminia harness. Feasability is just being checked.
Wonder if there is any interest in participating out there.
Hubert, I´ll forward you a telephone number from a classic car guy located in Wülfrath.
He´s running a Schenck, too. Take some hours of time to visit him, you´ll be fascinated !
It´s analog, but it doesn´t tell you lies. It´s a great thing !
I talked to the classic car guy with the Schenck today. Very friendly and accomodating man. He is member of alfabb too, but somewhere in one of the "Alfa-corners":smile2: He will come over to give some advice on how to put the brake into operation. He surprised me a little bit by telling me he´d use a 3600 liter tank (950 gallons?) as cooling water supply connected to another tank of 1000 liter (260 gallons?) installed four meters high in order to achieve the required pressure of 0,4 bar for the brake, furthermore a solid base would be mandatory.
He also said these would be fantastic for terminating engines by faulty operation.
That sounds promising and a bit of an adventure. I am not scared at all , had the drawings made for the adopter flanges instead!
Will see what really is necessary to operate it from time to time. BTW this seems to be an approach for another small business "analog laboratory work on analog engines".
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Hi guys,
Any ideas where I could find a good restorer of wooden steering wheels? The 2300S Coupe has got only the frame of the steering wheel and it could use to dress it up nicely with some fine wood.
Regards,
Vlad
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