I'm in MA, and I use Castrol GTX 20W50. The brand is less important to me than the weight. In an older engine I like having the heavier oil. Since I do most of my driving during the warm months, I don't need the thinner side of a multi viscosity oil.
I would personally not use 10w-40 in any car. a 10w-40 uses too many viscosity index improvers to attain the spread between the weights. A 20w-50, while having the same "30" spread doesn't need as many. It still gets hot in Maine in the summer. I'd do the same that I do here in NY. 20w-50 (I use GTX) in the hot season and Chevron Delo 400 15-40 otherwise and before winter storage.
There has been considerable chatter on the 'net about many 'modern' oils having reduced additives that our older engines supposedly need. IIRC, zinc is one of the additives that has been reduced in the modern "Energy Conserving" oils. These tend to be the lower weight oils spec'd by current auto manufacturers - esp the 5W-20, 5W-30 and probably the 10W-30 and maybe the 10W-40 oils. Look for a 'starburst' symbol on the container with 'Energy Conserving" or something similar printed there. Avoid those oils!
Another option are 'diesel' engine oils. They are usually a 15W-40 oil and are touted as good for our older engines. I use Shell Rotella synthetic (5w-40) in my motorcycle (Honda ST1100) as the additives are also needed for its integral gearbox and wet clutch.
After you've made up your mind on the weight of oil to use, make sure you get the right tools. You'll need a 27mm socket and a LARGE capacity catch pan! I was amazed how fast that old oil poured out of that 27mm drain hole, and of course my drain pan held about 6.5 of the 7 quarts that came out! Other than that it was a pretty straight forward oil change, except for the extra 3 quarts I had to add, as compared to the old VW's I'm used to working on.......Good luck!
Oh, be prepared for almost none of the 'low profile' drain pans to fit under there. (hint: try the pan first before breaking loose the plug only to find out you can't catch the volumous cascade of ish)
I'm using it in my '79. So far so good. Watch out for leaks though. It doesn't clot like dino juice. I ended up replacing most of my seals last year before I found that out. Heck some of them were probably 26 years old.
Everyone I know who has switched to a synthetic after more than 35K miles has had the pleasure of watching it oooze from every engine pore. I wouldn't do it.
I remember back in 1976 coming across a guy in Kent Ohio with an absolutely pristine Fiat spider. Asked him what oil he used and he said GTX 20-50. I used it in my Fait and now I use it in my Alfa. If it ain't broke don't mess with it. BTW the Fiat was not burning oil at 145K when I sold it. That convinved me.
I noticed that the 164 & 168 guys have a very active thread about what they've been up to, and I think us Spider guys and gals need to get with the program- so I'm gonna start and see what happens!
Today was a very good day! It was a beautiful warm, clear day in South Florida, and I'm sorry to...
I've been trying to remove my steering wheel to replace my headlight switch. I've loosed the 27 mm nut and backed it out flush with the steering column and put a puller on it. I've cranked so hard I've stripped the threads in the wheel. I've been spraying it with BP blaster the whole time...
I just picked up one Falken Azenis in 195/60/14 to check for fit/appearance -anyone else running this size on a S3 Spider (1983) Stock profile was 70. Dealer America's Tire tells me they cannot get a 70 -
On my 1973 Spider Junior (1600cc engine) the oil pressure gauge goes off the scale (high) whilst driving. It sits at 4.0 bar when idling. Reading the various topics on here it points to the sender,as earthing it makes the gauge show maximum. So I need to order a new sender I guess. Problem is...
Any idea what the aftermarket switch in pic below is for? I assume it was a mod from a PO. My best guess is that it's used in place of the in-line fuse for the fuel pump, but I don't know why. Any ideas from the wisdom of the board? Should I restore it to an in-line fuse? Thanks, as always! You...