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I may be getting to be an old curmudgeon by now, but why the hell would you bother. If you drive a manual box properly, you don't need it. That is, before putting in reverse or 1st gear, either put the car in 4th or slightly notch into 2nd and voila ... And if you need to shift down to 1st from 2nd, judicious use of clutch throttle will make for a smooth shift ... not that a street Alfa should need this anyway, given how low 2nd gear is. If you are not up to it, you shouldn't be driving an Alfa anyway :eek:;)
OMG Alfa has never had a design flaw!!:eek:After driving them for many years, this was the best improvement I have ever done! Making an Alfa shift like the rest of the REAL world:D Then again you never drove like I did!
Maybe I should not have drove and owned one or 2,3,4,5,6,7.... :confused:


Gubi- it lost something in translation It's fruit not veg...

60sracer Thanx and JMc who showed me this mod!! You would be KRAZY not to do this if you are rebuilding your trans
 

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Discussion Starter #83
I bet he means "many thanks"...

Don't you just love literal translations? I was in Japan once and passed a gas station with a sign:

"We Fix Tires Flat"

although I preferred mine to be round and plump......

R
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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I bet he means "many thanks"...
I hope so. Because there's nothing scarier in my mind than a fruit-obsessed Dutchman! All, like, wooden shoes and bananas...yikes. :D
 

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I bet he means "many thanks"...

Don't you just love literal translations? I was in Japan once and passed a gas station with a sign:

"We Fix Tires Flat"

although I preferred mine to be round and plump......

R
You Would:D:D:D:D:D:D
 

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I hope so. Because there's nothing scarier in my mind than a fruit-obsessed Dutchman! All, like, wooden shoes and bananas...yikes. :D

There are two kinds of people I can't stand in this world...
People who intolerant of other people's cultures..
and the Dutch
 

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Thanks for all the input.

I just modified the gearbox with the fix in the first gear.

In a couple of months I will know if it will work as expected, or if I will have to remove the gearbox again to undo the fix.

PS: groente = vegetable; fruit = fruit
 

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Pulling off Dog Gears

I found this great thread just in time as I am going to start rebuilding a gearbox this weekend.

Question what do I use to pull the Dog Gears off. I was looking at Bill77's photos on page 2. And I see the snap ring in place could I use a three arm puller?
He didn't use screw drivers did he?

Next question how do you put the "new" one back on? Warm it up and drop it on
or is a press required?

Thanks
 

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Richard Jemison
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Pressing out syncro "Dogs"

Pullers won`t work. Use a flat sided gear puller clamped tightly to the dog under the snap ring. Also it does not hurt to heat the dog before pressing out the gear. Helps reducing the separating force.
As pic shows sometime it takes enough force that dog will fail if not clamped tight enough...

Do not mix parts of syncro assemblies. The earlier syncros are more durable but unavailable. The later "moly" sliders will not work with them. Totally different designs
Below is pic of Moly slider compared to Early non moly. The non-moly is the rear one with a distinctive machined groove in the center. Both of these are worn. The tooth point on the non moly not so sharp, but the friction thickness still good. The Moly one is worn on the friction surface where it contacts the syncro band. Neither is re-usable.. :eek:
 

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Pullers won`t work.
Sorry Richard, it always has for me (but I admit I've only removed about twenty dog gears whereas you've probably done a LOT more) but the flat sided gear puller would be first choice if I had one.

As usual, a sharp tap on the end of the puller (while force is applied) helps get things moving.
 

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I found this great thread just in time as I am going to start rebuilding a gearbox this weekend.

Question what do I use to pull the Dog Gears off. I was looking at Bill77's photos on page 2. And I see the snap ring in place could I use a three arm puller?
He didn't use screw drivers did he?

Next question how do you put the "new" one back on? Warm it up and drop it on
or is a press required?

Thanks
Dave, I have a couple of special tools to get the dog gear off. I usually use a press but looks like a puller has worked.

I special machined a plate that goes behind the circlip and thus transfers force circumferencialy to the clip. Also have a push blog like the brass one shown above.

Your welcome to borrow them. I'm in the book

ciao

Ken
 
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I got the bad Dog Gears off

Thanks for the info Guys.

I made a plate to go behind the circlip . Drilled and tapped three
holes in the plate for my steering wheel puller and off came the dogs.

The only hard part was getting the clips on and off.
The pliers I have must not be metric as the tips do not fit
very well.

Ken, thanks for the offer. I wonder if I could use your puller instead.
I have a donor gearbox that I need to get apart.
 

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Thanks for the info Guys.


Ken, thanks for the offer. I wonder if I could use your puller instead.
I have a donor gearbox that I need to get apart.
Yes, e-mail sent to you.

ken
 

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I can't locate a donor gearbox (or even donor gears) in NZ for the first gear fix, so was wondering whether it would be practical to swap the first dog gear (complete with it's internals) with the fifth set. The 1st gear crunch only seems to be in one direction, and as 5th gear only operates in one direction, the 1st should work on it ?- or am i missing the mark? Anyone thought of, or tried, this?
 

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I can't locate a donor gearbox (or even donor gears) in NZ for the first gear fix, so was wondering whether it would be practical to swap the first dog gear (complete with it's internals) with the fifth set. The 1st gear crunch only seems to be in one direction, and as 5th gear only operates in one direction, the 1st should work on it ?- or am i missing the mark? Anyone thought of, or tried, this?
Hi, while I have not done it others have, have a look at the first post in this thread to see what is recommended. I have not re-read this entire thread in some time so maybe there are other gems in it as well.

Good luck

Ken
 

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The first gear should crunch when you shift up towards 1 (on a standing car press clutch and then immediately shift into first). This is because the internals do not operate the synchro when shifting up). Shifting from 2 down to 1 should happen without crunch provided that your synchro is OK.

Both parts of the 5th gear's synchro can be used: both accelerating and decelerating the gear.

Hence if your 5th gear synchro is Ok, then you can use it for the first gear. Plus is that you will not have the crunch in the first situation.
 

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I have modified the syncro of the 1st gear on my gearbox, but I have not used any part from a donor gearbox, the half circle part have been made from the outer ring of a ball bearing!!:D.

You can see the modifications and differences on the before and after pictures:
 

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Richard Jemison
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syncro dog mods

If you have the box apart it is unwise to not build it correctly.
Most assuredly not only do the dogs on the 1st gear need to be changed out, the 2nd gear dogs are always more worn than the 1st gears.
The dog ring assembly casing design is different on the 1st gear(large 2nd opening in the sleeve), and is weaker than the others.
Change them both while it is apart. Short cuts will always bite you in the A$$!:rolleyes:

Someone I`m sure has an old 4 or 5 speed with the correct(smaller dia) syncros that can be used to do it correctly.
 

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Richard Jemison
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Syncro parts

I hope you didn`t put the box with the syncro modified as in the second pic!

The unidirectional syncro sliding barb will stop the movement of the lock as it attempts to add pressure. The correct parts come in 3 thicknesses and two are shown below. Too cold to hunt up the other. However you must match this sliding lock by the size of dog being used. There are 3 different designs as to size.
 

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I hope you didn`t put the box with the syncro modified as in the second pic!

The unidirectional syncro sliding barb will stop the movement of the lock as it attempts to add pressure. The correct parts come in 3 thicknesses and two are shown below. Too cold to hunt up the other. However you must match this sliding lock by the size of dog being used. There are 3 different designs as to size.
I put everything inside the box as it is in the pictures, and you know what?... It works PREFECTLY:D no more problems with the first gear, engagement is as soft as in my 156.

The half circle part (the manufactured from a roller bearing) has the exact length to push the syncro before the sliding barb arrives to the stop position (I don't know if I expressed it well).

I made things this way because I wasn't able to find a donor gearbox.

You can see the rest of the process here:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/151944-have-you-seen-before-5.html
 
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