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Discussion Starter #1
I got a 2 liter motor for free from a '77 Spider and I am excited to take it apart and perhaps rebuild it.

The previous owner got the car with the motor somewhat disassembled so I am inheriting an incomplete motor:
Spica injector plumbing gone(Spica unbolted)
Cover for Spica oil filter missing
Missing one exhaust mounting stud
Water pump unbolted
No distributor!

My first question is how to mount the motor to the engine stand! How has everyone out there been doing it.

The flywheel is out, I see 4 long studs near the bottom.

Here are pics of my beginnings of cleaning up the grease off the engine:
 

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For an engine stand I would recommend the cheap ($39 I think) stand from Harbor Freight. Transfer the motor mount bolt pattern on the oil filter to the adapter plate and drill out the appropriate size hole. Mount it right up there. These motors are so light that you will be fine.

engine mounted on stand.JPG

I also built a hot stand. This is the best way to troubleshoot the motor.

The stand.JPG

The stand with engine.JPG

What are you planning on doing with the motor, BTW? Although I'm a SPICA guy all the way, you might want to consider a set of carbs. They are coming up pretty frequently on eBay and the '77 SPICA is a bit of a dog due to EPA de-tuning.

If you stick with the SPICA, I have all the missing parts (including a dizzy) - PM if you need them.

Either way, have fun...
 

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I like your hot stand Rich and man is that engine clean!...I thought I was doing a decent job on mine but it looks like I gotta get out some more elbow grease. W.r.t your HOT stand....I guess you're able to trouble shoot the basics on the engine like fuel and oil leaks... but what about the fact that ther'e no load on engine? .......what are you able to do with this setup?...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Impressive setup you have Rich!

Which motor do you have on the stand? 1750cc? I see that the oil filter mount is set back closer to the motor mount, unlike my 2liter.

I suppose I can mount it still to the 3 studs on the motor mount and this threaded hole near it( see pic).

Thanks for the Spica bits offer...I think I am not going with a Spica setup since so much of it is disassembled and missing and to get it setup correctly, I rather setup Webers instead!

Although it you have a spare thermostatic actuator, I could use it for my 79 Spider which has a slow T.A. which needs a lot of time after warm-up to give me a slower idle.

Back to the teardown:

  • I do have a spare bellhousing and a starter motor but no flywheel...Is it possible to do a compression test? Maybe a leakdown test?
  • To remove the crank pulley, does the crank need to be locked in place to prevent rotation?
I suppose I should evaluate the current condition of the engine before I start taking it apart.

As a guide I have these as references:

  • Engine Overhaul Manual, Spider 2.0L
  • Pat Braden's All-Alloy Twin Cam Companion
  • Pat Braden's Alfa Bible
Thanks, Rod
 

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Hi!

I'm impressed with your results cleaning the engine!!! I'm currenlty rebuilding an 3.0 V6 and it's really dirt, and sure will try your comments.

Thanks.
Best regards, Alvaro.

BTW: Oh! You did not comment about the four legged co-engineer, supervising the stand construction!!
I also built a hot stand. This is the best way to troubleshoot the motor.
View attachment 78408
 

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Guys,

I spent a lot of time cleaning my motors. You know what: Never again! It is the siren's song of the Nord 4. They look so pretty when they are on the stand, all polished up. I swear, a week after installing them in the car they turn a dull gray. After a month I pulled that motor out of my Spider and it was just plain grimy. I almost cried.

Anymore, I pull an engine and powerwash it real good with engine cleaner and get all the grit and grime off it. If I go fancy, I powdercoat the cam cover black and polish out the "Alfa Romeo" script, powdercoat the intake manifold silver and the exhaust manifold high temp iron (gray-black). Its a real low maintenance way to go and I like the look.
Pwdercoated Engine 2.JPG

As to the engine stand, Rossano I can't do any power tuning that is true. But for SPICA motors its not like there is a lot to change. There is a real danger of glazing the liners with a newly rebuilt motor so I limit a new motor to about 20 minutes max. I check for leaks, verify oil pressure and thermostat operation, set the ignition and cam timing and do a complete SPICA set up which is a joy to do outside the car. I actually pick it up with a lift truck for the ultimate in laziness - I don't even need to bend over to adjust the pump! But mostly I just don't trust myself and prefer to get the motor sorted out before I put it in the car and find out I forgot a piston...

BTW, a stole this design from Mike Valant: http://engr.smu.edu/rcam/cpm3v/2lrebuild/2lrebuild23.htm


Rod:

Yes, that is a 1750 but I routinely mount my 2L to the same stand. The mounting holes are the same. Its just with the 1750 I had to make sure the plate cleared that oil filter stud.

I think carbs would be a good idea in your situation.

The one thing I don't have is an extra working TA. Do a search for "dummy TA" and you'll discover Roadtrip's $.75 alternative to the $200 reconditioned units.

1) Yea, that would be tough to do. You can probably pick up a flywheel for cheap - you'll need one sooner or later.

2) If you are using an impact wrench (which I highly recommend) you won't need to lock the crank. A lot of folks really fight with this pulley nut but honestly, I've never had a problem with the ol' impact. If you don't have one, load the block into the back of the family truckster and go to a garage. I can't imagine they wouldn't do it for free (bring your socket - what is it a 38mm?).

You have all the right references (including this forum!). I also like the cardisc CD.

Finally, Mack is an Australian Cattle Dog. He is overweight and very gray. You know what they say about dogs and their owners...
 
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