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Another thing, don’t add up how much you have spent on your project. I have kept a file on everything I purchased or spent but I will NEVER add it up.

Regarding the wire harness. I bought a aftermarket “Painless” harness. I wouldn’t do that again. It was not painless. Not a plug and play option like I thought it would be. If you need to sort yours I’d just buy a pre made one for you car from a UK vendor.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
RE: the wiring harness, I originally saw one priced at $2200 which is insane, but CA and others sell them for $600 or so which is totally reasonable, and I don't think I could make my own for less if I value my time at all, so I'll probably buy one. I will likely replace the factory fuse block with something that takes blade fuses, though.

Did some more work on the car lately, and discovered some annoying things. I took the front sway bar off, and the front brackets for that are tweaked pretty badly so new ones got added to the CA order:



Once I got it out, I noticed that the end links have been welded on:


Both sides are like that. The rubber and outer parts of the end links came off, but the inner sleeve is welded on, and it prevents the inner rubber mounts from coming off. I didn't feel like grinding so I left that for another day.

This is the inside of the driver's fender looking forward, definitely going to need a new outer headlight panel:



The inner one might be salvageable, and the passenger side seems ok. When the new front valence comes I'll see how they fit.

I did some exploratory paint removal, and found some things.




Bottom of the front passenger fender is rusty. I didn't strip the other side, both fenders are getting replaced so I don't care.



Passenger rear, doesn't look too bad.



Top of passenger front fender. Looks like this was trashed long ago and slathered with filler. Note that you can see my oil pan through a big hole.





B pillars are both cracked but the area isn't real rusty, which is good news.





Both rear fenders are buckled from a rear hit, and this one has obviously been badly repaired previously. Going to try to hammer these back into shape. The base of the rear windshield is also bent, I'm hoping I can get that back into shape with some pulling and hammering too. The rear valence is getting replaced, though.





The filler on the passenger sill was in fact covering a wavy gravy panel. No rust that I have uncovered, though, just looks like it got hit and they just covered it in filler. New outer sill ordered.



Passenger door has a convex crease here, looks like something rubbed against it and the crash bar inside the door made the crease. Will have to see what it looks like with the paint and filler stripped, I bought some door skin tools hoping I can save the hood and trunk and this door skin.



The back edge of the pass. door is bent back, too.



This is annoying, though. When the front passenger side got hit back in the day, the jabronies covered the inner fender skirt with filler and painted it the original color to try to hide it. Lame. These inner skirts aren't available repro that I have seen, so I'm going to have to try to fix it better once I get the outer sheet metal off.

Here's my toolbox:



I do boat repair, so I have to be mobile. I also have my crap spread around a couple different counties, storage is an issue when you live on a boat.

I got a package the other day. Christmas came early!



The people at the post office thought it was a dinosaur bone. I told them that was accurate.



Came all the way from Greece. Looks better than the one in my car.

It's a rainy day today, I think I might lock myself in the garage and strip the paint off the hood skin and see if I can't make it look presentable.
 

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Watching with admiration.
Pete
 

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I had my car detailed a couple of months back after I bought it and the guy there who measured my paint thickness before polishing told me I have fillers incredibly thick in some areas, more than he's ever seen on any car. So planning to have the car paint stripped off this summer and repainted and this thread isn't helping with my anxiety of what I am going to eventually find under my shiny red paint :oops:
 

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Amazing how much filler some people use. Here was the thickest part of my car. You couldn’t even tell at all before I started to strip the paint. Front corner.

1608571
 

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That is an impressive amount of filler. You would think it would take more time to put all the filler on, than to beat the metal in the rough shape and than add a skim of filler...
 

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Hello, AlfaBB. I am a idiot and a few months ago I bought this:...
Congratulations. It's nice to be reminded I'm not the only idiot who overpayed for one of these beautifully sculpted Italian turds. Best of luck on your restoration!
 

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The OP is one brave man.

This Bertone has clearly had a seriously hard life and to add insult to injury has been at the hands of some very nasty "repairers". They are animals!

The workmanship is shocking. Horrific lash ups.

The good thing is today you can get so many remade parts that weren't around in the 80's/90's

Good luck OP and I salute your tenacity and drive to get this Giulia in fine fettle!
 

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When my car went to the bead blaster to get the whole thing back to bare metal, the guys who did the job said that they had never seen so much filler on such a small car! In some places it was over an inch thick! When we put the car back on the trailer it was markedly lighter!!! You can see here the the horrors that where hiding underneath!
 

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Some of he repairs done in the past would not have met with factory appoval. Even though comments of the repairs being shocking and horrific we need to understand the reasons. Back in the day it may have been the result of a few things as I mentioned before like the 73 oil crisis, shortage of factory replacement panels and the DIY craze of the 80's(spurned on by the 80's financial crisis).
So keeping a small engine car going was an economic decision, that could only be done in a hurry thus the enormous amounts of plastic filler we see in this example. The key thing is the the body shell exists and escaped the metal recycling craze of the 90's etc. The factory are not making any more so with cars with various needs I think will come back to life one by one.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Happy New Year! I used the holiday to make some more progress on the car.

Two really big boxes showed up from the UK!



Lots of goodies there. What you're looking at are two front fenders, a front valence, a radiator support, a rear valence, both front floors, the frame rails that go under said floors, the front sway bar brackets, the outer passenger sill, and a front jack point. The used front crossmember I got previously is also in the mix. I realize that I forgot to order the filler panel between the radiator support and the front valence. Oh well, I doubt this is the last box I'm getting from CA.

Everything made it in record time (maybe a week?), and there was only some scratching on a coupe of the floor panels, and a couple dents on the radiator panel, but no big deal because those are going to be buried anyway.

Question for anybody that has used the Classic Alfa sheet metal, are the fenders and front valence meant to butt up perfectly or is there some overlap between them? There doesn't seem to be a lot of extra metal on either.

I also took apart more of the car. The steering column was puzzling me a bit, I've looked up the procedure and it seems like it's trivial for most people to remove the inner column. Mine wasn't really feeling like it wanted to budge. I thought maybe there was something hiding behind the turn signal stalks?



There wasn't. I did pull the key out of the shaft and a little tube and a spring came off the shaft behind the turn signal stalk assembly, but the aluminum bracket still didn't want to budge. How about the ignition key assembly, is that holding me on? Having the key in there didn't make a difference, so I pulled it off. Still not budging.

So will the whole thing come out through the hole in the firewall? I dunno, but the master cylinder is pretty in the way so let's get that out.



Might be hard to see there but our MIG artisan did some boogery repairs to the pivot for the clutch pedal, and the clutch pedal arm under the dash also appears to have been snapped in half and welded back together. Curious.

With that out of the way, these three bolts and the steering stop bracket come out and the box is free:





The answer is no, that bracket doesn't fit through the hole in the firewall. I scratched my head, and decided it was mallet time. I had most of the aluminum bracket pulled into the engine compartment, giving me plenty of room to whack at it. A moderate malleting and it popped off the shaft, meanwhile the fluid from the box was pouring out into the footwell. Good thing the carpet (and every other thing) was out of there.

I looked at the service records I got with the car and this box is a replacement, possibly from a '77 Spider. It appears that the shaft is possibly slightly bent. That may be what caused it to hang onto the bracket so dearly? Something to play with later.

Anyway, with the hydraulics and steering box out of the way, I got the rest of the exhaust manifold bolts off. I had to use a wobble socket on a couple of them, first time I've needed to use one of those in a while. Then I got under the car.



Disconnected the clutch hydraulic line.



And took apart this mess. Lots of leaks under the car, everything is coated in one fluid or another. I took the speedo cable off, removed the ground strap, removed the flex disk (total PITA), and unbolted the exhaust bracket from the exhaust and the trans mount from the body of the car. I thought I could leave those on the transmission and get the mess to fit out.

I was wrong.

Getting the exhaust bracket off is easy, three little bolts. Getting the trans mount off was weird, because the whole thing was flexing when I tried to loosen the bolt after I took the nut off. I tried an impact driver which was ineffective, and I didn't have enough travel using a combo wrench, but a socket wrench let me wind it up enough that it broke free.



Then it fit.



The super wide oil pan makes it very stable on my dolly.



There are some leaks.







Feels like progress to get the engine out. Now I really need to get some metal and make a cart for this thing so I can take the suspension and the rest of the drivetrain out. Then she's off to the stripper! :boobs:
 

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Good progress. Regarding the replacement panels. All the ones I got from either Classic Alfa or Alfaholics were butt welded. Unless there is an obvious flange where it would have originally been spot welded or something, I don't think any of them are lap welded. Assume modest trimming and/or massaging will be required to get things to fit perfectly..
 
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