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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A few months ago, I took on a second GTV project (let's not talk about the first one please.....:crying2: ). With a business to run, a new baby, wife, errands, life etc.....I haven't had that much time to work on it.

Slowly, I managed to change the oil, trans oil, fuel filter, plugs, replace the ram funnels with actual air filters, install new seats, seatbelts, turn signal relay, fresh gas, alignment and brake cleaning/turning, plus run thru a can of Seafoam. Oh and of course, get a custom "franken-exhuast" made up

Took her for a spin in the Malibu mountains last weekend. What a blast! I'm happy to report there was no overheating, no flames, no stalling, no drama of any sort! And thats with 3 straight hours of driving! Engine is a bit boggy below 2000rpm, but it runs strong up to the redline and sounds pretty good! :grin2: Overall, I'm impressed! Can't wait to take her out again!

Now for the questions:

-When shifting into first from a dead stop, I get a crunch 90% of the time. I shift slowly to all other gears, seems pretty smooth. Safe to say its a clutch adjustment? Or slave cylinder?

-How the heck do you lock the doors? I cannot get the key into the lock more than 1/4"! Thats on both doors and trunk lock!

-There is a sound coming from the back of the car, which increases at speed. Like a bad wheel bearing or something that isnt lubricated. Any common problems I should check for?

-The car has yellow (possibly Centerline?) springs in front, and sits low. It has red (stock?) springs in the rear and sits higher. Also has no sway bars front or rear. I sourced a front OEM sway bar, plus all new bushings, which I'll be installing shortly. And I will most likely get a set of Centerline yellow rear springs, to match the fronts. I've read recommendations here to NOT install the rear sway bar. Any truth to this?

Thanks to everyone for the help and encouragement so far! I'll keep you posted with the progress



 

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Congrats on getting it on the road to enjoy!

-When shifting into first from a dead stop, I get a crunch 90% of the time. I shift slowly to all other gears, seems pretty smooth. Safe to say its a clutch adjustment? Or slave cylinder?
Go into second then first, the same with reverse go into fifth first and you will not have any crunches. I think I read somewhere that reverse is not synchronized and first only for downshifting, hence the crunch if you go into first immediately.
As for the other questions, I'll leave those to the more knowledgeable on the BB (of which there are a lot:) )
 

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Congrats on getting it on the road to enjoy!

Go into second then first, the same with reverse go into fifth first and you will not have any crunches. I think I read somewhere that reverse is not synchronized and first only for downshifting, hence the crunch if you go into first immediately.
As for the other questions, I'll leave those to the more knowledgeable on the BB (of which there are a lot:) )
Looks like a fun drive!

I have had my car for only a couple of months, I was told to do the same thing to
avoid the 1st gear crunch. Also to double clutch going into 2nd especially when
the gearbox is cold. My car has +108k miles and as far as I know the gearbox
hasn't been re-built.

Are you sure you have the right key? PO gave me what she thought was the door
lock key. It wasn't the right one, wouldn't even go in half way.
 

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-When shifting into first from a dead stop, I get a crunch 90% of the time. I shift slowly to all other gears, seems pretty smooth. Safe to say its a clutch adjustment?
Can you shift into the other gears (reverse for example) from a dead stop without grinding? If so, then your clutch is probably OK. Many of us do what Scalino1300 describes above - shift halfway into 2nd, and then into 1st.

-How the heck do you lock the doors? I cannot get the key into the lock more than 1/4"! Thats on both doors and trunk lock!
If all three locks behave the same way, I'd suspect the key. But, without seeing the key you are trying to use, it's tough to say.

-There is a sound coming from the back of the car, which increases at speed. Like a bad wheel bearing or something that isnt lubricated. Any common problems I should check for?
Again, without hearing the noise, it's tough to say. Alfa rear axle bearings tend to be pretty robust. Can't think of any common problems in that area.

-The car has yellow (possibly Centerline?) springs in front, and sits low. It has red (stock?) springs in the rear and sits higher. Also has no sway bars front or rear. I sourced a front OEM sway bar, plus all new bushings, which I'll be installing shortly. And I will most likely get a set of Centerline yellow rear springs, to match the fronts. I've read recommendations here to NOT install the rear sway bar. Any truth to this?
Those red springs are aftermarket too - the stock springs were just black. Early GT's came with no rear sway bars. Later cars may have had a small diameter sway bar installed by the factory. I'm no expert on handling/performance, but know that many people do leave the rear bar off.
 

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Low in the front and high in the rear is pretty much opposite of what you want and handling will be compromised. For good handling the front should be more stock height and the rear a bit lower. There are proper ways to lower the front if you want to spend more on dropped spindles ect.
When measuring from the main body line the line can be equal to 1" lower over the rear wheel than the front. This is a general rule and others may contradict me. Too low and the rear will bounce through and too high it will roll and slide around more than you want.

I removed my rear sway bar to let the rear be more free and grounded for traction and used a stiffer front swaybar and springs. To control roll it is better to stiffen the front than the rear.

For shifting the advice above will serve. i had to learn it myself and now its old hat. Pause going into 2nd and all the other gears you can probably take at will. Choose 5th before going into reverse and blip the throttle if it still won't go in. Choose second before 1st. I generally shift up and down in order and there is no grinding.

The rear noise could be anything and will require some help. Off the top of my head bearings, u-joint, axle support bearing?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, I wil try the 2nd to 1st method. Thanks guys! I changed the oil to Redline as everyone recommends, and it seems to be fine in all other gears when warmed up, but I'm also shifting pretty slowly.

As for the springs, I'm really curious as to why the PO used lowered front and stock height rears (looks like it possibly the red stock height springs from Centerline Alfa), plus remove all the away bars. But I think I'll get the rear yellow "performance" springs from Centerline, hopefully they are a match for the front. I wonder if there are any markings on the springs to be sure....

As for the keys, they are actual Alfa Romeo keys, (with the big round clover) same as the ones that came with my other GTV project car. Maybe they aren't cut for this car, who knows...
 

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As for the keys, they are actual Alfa Romeo keys, (with the big round clover) same as the ones that came with my other GTV project car. Maybe they aren't cut for this car, who knows...
There are 2 keys. The big round one for the ignition and a smaller one for everywhere else
 

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When the car is at rest, depress the clutch pedal and select fourth gear (but not all the way). This makes selecting first even easier. There is no synchro on first gear, unless you have had the gear converted.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There are 2 keys. The big round one for the ignition and a smaller one for everywhere else
Really? For both of my GTV's, its the other way around. A small, black plastic key for the ignition, big round metal ones for the doors.
 

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This is what my 2 current sets for a spider and GTV look like. I've had old mid 70s spiders where keys had to be made and you used whatever blanks you could find that would work---
 

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Hmm...interesting. My door keys (for both GTV's) look like these
All the Alfa door keys I have seen look like the ones Flivesay shows in post #12: the door/trunk keys have notches on both sides, while the ignition key just has notches on one side. The photos in the post above just show key blanks, with no notches - how are the keys notched on your non-working door key?

When you wrote "for both GTV's" did you mean that the type of key pictured below works in the doors of one of your GTV's, but not the other? If yes, do they both have the same profile when viewed end-on?

 

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Discussion Starter #18
I took a closer look. GTV #2 (the car in question in this thread) came with a single ignition key like my pic above, with notches on one side. It also has two (I assume) door keys similar to my other pic (big round key). Both keys are keyed the same (duplicates), with notches on both sides.

GTV #1 is the same story, two door keys, but the door keys are keyed differently. I never actually tried using them with GTV #1, next time I visit the body shop, I'll have to give them a test.
 

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