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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sticky part.

Hi,

Got evaporator loose, false firewall out and wiper motor arms/motor out too but having trouble getting the blower motor section to come away from the heater matrix/core section.

Have seen there are two lower clips, one either side of heater section but is there anything else holding it in? And how the hell do you get to the one of these clips on the inner (evaporator) side of the heater section?

Oh, have removed the heat level cable - or rather snapped it off the arm while trying to do so. Will have to rebuild that part but at least know it definitely is not holding in the heater section.

Thanks,

Richard
 

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a very long screwdriver

is what I used last time -- just prise (pry for us Yankees) the clip out (away) from the box and jiggle/wiggle the box out.
 

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I seem to remember a clip in the middle at the bottom.
 

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1991 164L
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Just use long flat blade screwdriver straight down right side near arm temp stepper cable goes (went)to to hold R/H spring loaded stainless steel latch open and use flat blade screwdriver or putty knife on same style SS latch on L/H side.

Now rotate blower housing out from bottom off open latches.

Are we still having fun?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just use long flat blade screwdriver straight down right side near arm temp stepper cable goes (went)to to hold R/H spring loaded stainless steel latch open and use flat blade screwdriver or putty knife on same style SS latch on L/H side.

Now rotate blower housing out from bottom off open latches.

Are we still having fun?

Oh, yeah. Loving it in this autumn weather.

Cheers Steve,

Richard
 

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1991 164L
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Indoor garage day here, too.

Oh, yeah. Loving it in this autumn weather.

Cheers Steve,

Richard
It is already up to 46F here at 0900 but windy so feels like 39F.

F: 39
C: 3.8
 

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You have to be careful with those clips too, I broke one of mine off, the second time I was in there.
Charles
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Blower motor out and new heater matrix in! Finally. :))) Though think might have broken a bit off the end of the long black flap that goes under the blower to heater housing; will take another look in daylight.

Anyone tried changing just the brushes on the heater motor instead of the whole thing?

Thanks,

Richard
 

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Anyone tried changing just the brushes on the heater motor instead of the whole thing?

Thanks,

Richard
Not going to happen until it becomes the avenue of last resort.
 

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It is already up to 46F here at 0900 but windy so feels like 39F.

F: 39
C: 3.8
Thanks for the translation!
I am in Adelaide, South Australia, where it feels like at least 25 degrees. Working all week so taking a breather in the weekend, though I have another work task to at least start on. I'd rather be in my garage.

I noticed rusty water marks on the carpet behind centre console of my Spider (1998 model) so looks like I might have to investigate and replace, though since it may be due to a past failure I will wait until I have engine running and car driveable. This is my red Spider rescue project and the frustrating thing is that while I'm stuck in Australia for the rest of the month, the Spider patiently waits in the garage with a current Warrant of Fitness (till April) and license (till October). It begs to be driven.

My 164 is probably roasting on the driveway, with the last of the clearcoat coming off the roof and the license just expired again.

-Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hope you took lots of pics for those tackling this in the future!

Funnily enough I didn't as had both hands full and very grimey but will take some before it goes back together. Alfisto Steve has already posted some great pics of how to do it properly so maybe mine would show how to not do it and what to avoid.

Watch this space....
 

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My 164 is probably roasting on the driveway, with the last of the clearcoat coming off the roof and the license just expired again.

-Alex
Hope not Alex :) Hear from you soon, and I hope the Aussies treat you well.
Aaron
 

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Now rotate blower housing out from bottom off open latches.
Are we still having fun?
Is the 164B any different?

I have previously removed two blowers from 164L's without too much fuss that I can remember.
After two fruitless hours this afternoon beneath the Live Oaks I have the blower unit free of the bottom brackets and top surrounds but it will NOT rotate up and out as expected.
I did remove the wiper motor and loosen the false firewall for an additional inch or two of space.
Next weekend I will drain the new coolant and disconnect the heater hoses for marginal extra wiggle room.....

Have a great week ahead Folks as it will be a short one into Thanksgiving....looking forward to a four day weekend myself.

Ta,

Neville.
 

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Is the temp door lever control cable disconnected? If in full heat position and you can't put power or car or stepper bad you may first have to disconnect other end from stepper lever inside glove box. then push cable forward or pull lever forward and unhook cable from lever on blower motor housing.

Use your 4 days wisely!
 

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Use your 4 days wisely!
Does this mean deep fry the turkey, mow lawns, trim Azaleas, shop 'till you drop and relocate the Christmas decoration from the attic to everywhere else.....

I did manage to get in a few quality Alfa hours beneath the Live Oaks on a glorious FL day today.....

The blower unit did not come out easily even when approached with a fresh outlook and Steve's good advice in mind.
It came out with me kicking and screaming, after removal of the heater hoses and loosening of the A/C behind the firewall.
I also removed the two vacuum/idle units from behind the rear engine head so that the firewall could move about another inch forward.
There is still blood on the head covers from a cut on my elbow which bled profusely before I noticed - not sore....
As I mentioned earlier I have done this job twice (actually 3 times) before but in this case the blower unit refused to come out easily.

However, the blower is out and I did not have to drain the coolant.

I was all set to disconnect the heater hoses and lose some coolant down through the bulkhead drains when - nothing happened!

The heater hoses came off the heater matrix and were then loose in my hand.
They had been previously cut and separated from the engine cooling system.

I was left with two empty hoses hoses each about a foot long, just going as far as the false firewall.

The previous owner could not have had heat in the winter, although in FL that is not really a problem.
It probably blew some reasonably warm air from somewhere.....

I will reconnect the heating with the recommended Murray valve.

Another anomaly is that there were no rubber one way sleeves from the bulkhead drains.
Was this a 164B feature or did they just disappear over the years.
My other three 164's all had these sleeves.

I am in favor of leaving the sleeves out to enable easier drainage of the bulkhead area.
Two 164's had a great build up of rotten leaf debris which could no longer drain through the rubber sleeves.

Any ideas on this....it drains out onto the P/S unit.


Ta,

Neville.
 

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TO BE with or NOT TO BE without cavity drain sleeves that is the question. So be it but, without may allow road fumes when stopped to be drain into a/c when recir door open. Shouldn't be a problem when moving though with venturi effect.

I still can't figure out why you had such a time getting blower out but you mention removing idle actuator and oil fume seperator to move false firewall.

I do that and remove false firewall. Are you saying you don't remove false firewall?
 
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