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Hello All,
Does anybody have a source, or product name for the fiberglass pad that was under the rubber mats that covered the front firewall as well as the spare tire area. I used dynamat in the areas you cant see, however I would like to use something that looks correct for the vertical area behind the spare. The original had a black backing. I see its available on occasion from Classic Alfa, however I would prefer to find a source in the states.

Best regards,
Paul
 

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Hello All,
Does anybody have a source, or product name for the fiberglass pad that was under the rubber mats that covered the front firewall as well as the spare tire area. I used dynamat in the areas you cant see, however I would like to use something that looks correct for the vertical area behind the spare. The original had a black backing. I see its available on occasion from Classic Alfa, however I would prefer to find a source in the states.

Best regards,
Paul
Paul,
Check out the World Upholstery website. They list the two bulkhead insulation pads in that light grey material and can make the under spare tire pad.
Jim
 

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Hi Paul,The rubber mat goes on the floor up to the shock towers,but not up the back wall/bulkhead,(see the above picture #3)..That back wall is only covered with the silver insulated mat.Right now I'm in the middle of doing all of this,so FWIW here are the materials I'm using and some pictures of my progress.For insulation, M-D all purpose fiberglass,1"x12"x48",#19106.It's light and not very dense,OK with me but I'd consider a 2"x24" similar product as I'm ending up doubling the thickness on the tire area pieces.AFA the firewall,my original insulation was thin so I used only 1" of batt covered with Italian vinyl,Vipla from Elvezio,not the most effective solution to keeping heat and noise down. For the two tire area pieces,the 3M 2080 vinyl wrap is spot on to the original in look,feel and texture,but my M21 "matte silver" is darker than the original.I'm using it anyway,but no doubt Metro Restyling has a closer color match,3M is not the only company making vinyl wrap,many many colors,get samples.I added a light backing material to the glass matt just to keep particles down and a little better to glue to,but I might just use Velcro? I got the grey backing material at a fabric store,it's what's used under furniture.When I'm finished with both tire area pieces,I'm going to have them stitched around their perimeter,as original.Hope this helps.Regards,Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Phil, Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for, I must admit I have a problem spending a bunch of money on a
a fiberglass mat. I have way to many other thing to focus on at the moment. I didnt think the rear mat went up the rear bulkhead, but it looked like it did in one of the earlier photos.. The car I am working on was a total mess when I started, everything in the rear had totally deteriorated. What you have done on the front firewall looks spot on to the remnants I removed. Well don and way to think outside the box.

paul epp
 

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Hi Paul,Yep,my car was a mess when I got it too,kinda half of everything was either trash or missing,but little by little,it gets there,sometimes fun,other times not.AFA money,the vinyl wrap alone was $50.00+ship.for a 5'x5' sheet,add to that the fiberglass matt,spray glue,you're almost at half price already,not to mention paying to have the border stitched around(not really necessary)plus time making and fitting templates,etc.,well,you get the picture.I'm doing this to save "a little" money and enjoy it,but mainly because I'm sick and have to get it looking the way I want it to.The aftermarket pieces didn't impress me,but then again,most of this sh** is covered up anyway!Good luck and thanks for the compliments.Phil
 

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After taking apart a few of these cars I always felt that the "felt" liner was one of the reasons Alfa's rust so much. I know some us have to have what was in the car when it was born, 40 - 45 years ago. This stuff holds the water right against the steel body so the rust can start And it has the air tight cover to keep in the moisture. It's like a sponge. They used what was available at the time.

Times change and "improve".

I like the "DynaMat" type of lining. If done right there is no air space between the steel and the liner. Supposedly the water never contacts the steel before it (the moisture) has dried out. If you still need the old look, you could strip the cover off the soft stuff and contact cement the outer cover to the DynaMat. And I don't think this old style liner has any effect on the sound.

Am I going down the wrong road here?
 

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Moisture has a way of getting behind everything, its backing adhered to the paint or not. Time will only tell if our restored cars’ metal surfaces survive any better with the 2020 products. For sound deadening the new mats have to be better than fiberglass, but while most claim to be waterproof, I’m betting NOT trapping water under them can ever be claimed. They may even be worse than fiberglass unless the fiberglass gets soaked. I don’t think it’s as crucial on the areas for vertical mats, but moisture forms when and where it wants.

I’d like so see how dry a car is under the new insulating mats following driver-type car use that may often get rain and/or snow inside it, soaking through carpet...or might not be stored in a dehumidified or dry environment afterward. For those reasons I’m not a fan of sticking insulating mats on fresh paint for which I’ve paid dearly. I’d leave it loose for periodic inspections if used. I flipped my new firewall mat, since it’s held on with screws anyway.

I too considered Velcro on the back bulkhead...but there goes that spray adhesive vs adhesive strips decision again on new paint. One has to win!

Keeping air moving around a car prone to moisture is key too.

One thing to remember about the spare tire deck insulation, not all Spiders got that. Not sure of the year that was first offered.
 

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All good points being raised in posts #7 and #8 concerning rust.When I was a teenager in Chicago,salt capital of the USA,my friends would go directly to Ziebart after buying a new car.When applied correctly,that tar-like stuff actually worked,and nobody seemed to mind all of the little yellow plastic plugs everywhere that were used to cover every hole to access a cavity that otherwise couldn't be gotten to.Even on my Alfa,under the chassis undercoat (that stayed in place)was clean new metal.Today some restorers in the USA are using a similar product to protect the interiors as well as the exterior chassis,it's something like a spray in bedliner,Lizardskin,etc.. So I think that is a good choice as a base for a bare metal restoration and to have under whatever materials you use to achieve the original look. I made my spare tire mat today,came out pretty good for a first time,at least as good as most I've seen,I'm satisfied and probably not going to stitch around the border(unless my wife can do it).I couldn't get better pictures of it in the car right now but these should give you an idea of the results. Summary.This project was harder for me than it looked,didn't really need to double the insulation,might not need to stick any of it down,but would probably look a little better.The light backing fabric(grey under furniture stuff)on the backside was a good move,and as always with any project,good tools,good lighting,new blades,etc.I spent around $100.00.FWIW,I used 3M sound deadening on all floors including the tire area,it's like Dynamat but without the tin foil.Also for the front floors,trans hump and tunnel I'm going to try a felt-like"green"product,Thermozite.Made from recycled bottles with a foil back,supposedly near the heat/sound ability of Dynamat(It's thick,maybe 7/16"),but unlike Dynamat,they suggest putting the foil side down?Thermozite Insulator Padding - Sound & Heat Solution
 

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Nice work. Looks comfy enough to take a nap back there after getting the shock covers & belts in!

That’s an easy stitch around the outside edges. You’ve come this far. Your wife may need a stronger needle and a swanky dinner promise.
 
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