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Discussion Starter #1
I started working on pulling the engine of the 95 LS parts car with manual trans that I purchased. After seeing it, however, I decided it was too good to just cut up for the body panel I needed. This is the first time I've pulled a FWD engine with lots of electrical and vacuum lines. I'm labeling everything as I disconnect and taking lots of photos to help everything go back together smoothly. I've hit a few snags, and rather than force things, through I would ask for advise.

1. Having a problem removing the electrical connector from the ABS unit. This is the longer connector to the rear of the unit. Removed the small phillips screw, but the connector does not come off easily. There appears to be a metal bracket or clip under the connector at the wired end opposite the screw.

2. Having another problem disconnecting the large round electrical connector for the injectors and spark at the rear of the left (front) head. Does it just pull apart, or is there a trick?

3. I purchased a used 24V short block and after getting it home, realized it is for an auto. Are the cranks the same between auto and 5 speed? If not, can it be machined to work (add pilot bearing)?

I'll probably have more questions as the removal process continues.

When I drained the oil, there was a lot of coolant that came out, so it will be interesting to see what wrong internally. Was told it had a bad bearing, which may be the result of the coolant leakage.

Thanks in advance!
 

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a little bit help

for your question 2, the big round connector is a twist-type. ONce it is free from the holding bracket, you have to unscrew the fore and aft pieces-- kind of like opening a pickle jar

for question 1, if you press that metal wire IN (towards the connector) and pull, it should come off. Might need coaxing tho after so many miles and years (probably never been off before!)

for question 3, AFAIK, the crank is the same. Caveat--I have never taken crank off a 5 speed and an auto and compared them
 

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Cranks are the same but flywheel bolts different length (longer for A/T and are both be fine threads on 24v (were coarse threads on Milano and early 12v 164.

There is no pilot bearing in crank for 5-speed or A/T.
 

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ABS Unit

Tom,

When we took the motor out of our 164LS we unbolted the ABS unit and left in in the car. Since the motor and trans drop out the bottom with the subframe the ABS unit is not in the way and you don't have to bleed it when you back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks everyone

for the help. Different length flywheel bolts I can handle. Didn't see a pilot bushing in the crank and figured that a MT would require one.

I'll try the other suggestions for the electrical connectors when I get time to work on it again. Work long hours and too tired during the week, which leaves weekends with all of the other things going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also, I was planning on pulling the engine/trans out the top. Either way, I believe you have to disconnect the ABS unit from the subframe, but leave all of the lines intact.
 

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You don't have to mess with the ABS unit at all. It will not be in the way, so no need to waste time with it unless you want to sell it (they don't usually go bad so not much market for them). Coolant in the oil is not a good sign at all for that engine.
Charles
 

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Chazzy probably right but I loosen ABS pump mounts and left lines hooked up and moved it and tied it out of the way. Maybe more for clearance to put a engine back in from the top.

As for 94-95 ABS unit it is different from 91-93 USA system. IF lines from it to brake system not rusted you might want to safe them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Almost Ready to Pull Engine, But!

Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see the place to hook up the chains for pulling the engine at the rear. CarDisc shows a bracket similar to that present at the front, but don't see it. Easily see the front bracket, but not the rear.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Also, after looking things over, not sure if it's easier to pull the engine out the top or drop the subframe. I know there has been a lot of debate about this on the BB, but it looks like it might be easier to drop the subframe. Not sure how the engine clears the top engine mount welded to the body if you pull it from the top.

About all I have left to do (as far as I know) is to disconnect the exhaust, half shafts, and shift linkage. If I drop the subframe, will have to disconnect the struts, but not the half shafts (at least not now). Not sure which is easier to align when everything goes back together.

Thanks!
 

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There isn't a bracket on rear head for engine removal even though at least on 12v models there is a threaded bolt hole for bracket like on front head.

I usually remove intake plenum on 12v so I can add bracket to rear head, But I also use upper dog bone still hooked to mount point on rear head and run chain through U-shaped end.

Out the top keeps you from having to go into ****pit under dash to remove cover over steering rack universal joint to steering column as it has to be disconnected to drop sub frame.

You need to also remove alternator and a/c compressor and power steeering pump pulley when coming out the top
 

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As far as the bracket is concerned, I used one off a spare 2.5 engine I had lying around. Finally it came in handy, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks everyone

At least I know I'm not going blind.

Where do you normally connect to the engine hoist when pulling a 24V. I have a hoist and load leveler. Looking at it, it seems like you have to pull the engine forward prior to pulling up to clear the top engine mount on the body?

I have disconnected the AC compressor and alternator, but hadn't though about the PS pulley. (or is it easier to disconnect the PS pump.) I have disconnected the two "bango" fittings from the PS pump.
 

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At least I know I'm not going blind.

Where do you normally connect to the engine hoist when pulling a 24V. I have a hoist and load leveler. Looking at it, it seems like you have to pull the engine forward prior to pulling up to clear the top engine mount on the body?

I have disconnected the AC compressor and alternator, but hadn't though about the PS pulley. (or is it easier to disconnect the PS pump.) I have disconnected the two "bango" fittings from the PS pump.
I haven't had to pull a 24v engine yet but top dog bone hooked to rear head bracket and routing chain through U-shaped engine end worked for me on a 12v engine.

I usually remove three 10mm P/S pulley bolts before removing belt and pop pulley off. To remove pump you pretty much have to have pulley off or a special 13mm distributor wrench to get hidden bolt loose.

With alternator and a/c compressor off you can pull engine up and out at a slight angle and clear upper dog bone mount on a 12v now 24v rear exhaust cam pulley maybe problem. I would probably remove tranny front mount lower tranny onto sub frame to get clearance and then remove rear cam pulley bolt while holding pulley with pulley wrench/forked tool then remove timing belt and knock pulley off cam with brass rubber mallet.

If this car is A/T, don't forget to disconnect tranny mini gas strut shock from rear of tranny outer upper corner.

If 24v 5-speed, don't forget to remove Reverse lock out cable from top front of tranny.
 
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