Alfa Romeo Forums banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
946 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The original exterior door handles in my car worked fine, but they were pitted, so I asked the guy who built the twin spark engine to install new ones. I believe I ordered them from Alfaholics.

When I picked up the car from the interior shop, the told me that they were having problems with the driver's exterior door handle - it was stuck in the up position and you needed to use the interior door handle to open the door.

I spent some time trying to troubleshoot it today. I seem to have two different problems:

1. The door sheetmetal does not fit into the slot/channel in the upper inner part of the exterior door handle unless the door handle gasket is not installed. With the door handle gasket installed, and the door sheetmetal not fitting in the channel in the door handle, the door handle just pops out of place when you use it to open the door. See below picture for the area that's causing problems. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to address this?

Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Revolver Automotive design


2. The bracket that the exterior door handle bolts to is rusty and the metal is weak. I do not think this will fix the above problem, but it should do a better job of keeping the handle in place if it was in good condition. Does anyone know if these are reproduced?

Automotive tire Rectangle Automotive design Font Gas


Thanks,

Scott
 

· Administrator
'66 Sprint GT, '67 Duetto, '70 BMW 2800CS
Joined
·
13,435 Posts
1. The door sheetmetal does not fit into the slot/channel in the upper inner part of the exterior door handle unless the door handle gasket is not installed.
Did you use a gasket with your old door handle? I've never used the repro handles - just re-chromed my OE ones - but when I re-assembled my Sprint after paint, I tried using a gasket, and got nowhere. The handle simply didn't fit with the gasket. So two suggestions:
  • Try fitting the Alfaholics handle without the gasket.
  • If that doesn't work, just disassemble your old handle, re-chrome it, and use that. It worked before, it will work again.
2. The bracket that the exterior door handle bolts to is rusty and the metal is weak. I do not think this will fix the above problem, but it should do a better job of keeping the handle in place if it was in good condition.
I've never looked for a repro bracket, but if the usual sources don't carry them, then I guess they don't exist. Someone must have a used bracket in better condition than yours.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,422 Posts
Here was my solution to the door handle gaskets.

The caveat is to be very judicious with filing down the rolled edge of the upper door handle opening in the door skin, and definitely not the rounded corners. My handles are still fine after 10 plus years, but my doors close and open well, without any slamming or drama. If you are heavy handed, you may think twice about this approach.
 

· Administrator
'66 Sprint GT, '67 Duetto, '70 BMW 2800CS
Joined
·
13,435 Posts
I think going without the gaskets and replacing the original brackets (just ordered from Classic Alfa) will solve my problems.
When the gaskets wouldn't work on my '66 Sprint GT, I just assumed that they were intended for the later GTV's and that perhaps the later coupes had slightly larger openings that would accommodate the handles with a gasket. But VabeneGT seem to be saying that the gaskets did not come on the later coupes. So who dreamed them up and why do CA and others sell them?
 

· Registered
1974 GTV 2000
Joined
·
414 Posts
Yes remove the gaskets, they do not fit right at all. Also be careful screwing down the new brackets, if you over-tighten the corners kind of pop out from the other side of the sheet metal, leaving nice dimples around your door handle. Ask me how I know :(
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,422 Posts
I honestly don't remember if my car had them or not; I took it apart in 2015 or so. It wasn't completely original, however. It had been repainted at some point.
US spec Type 115.01s did not have the door gaskets. I've read here somewhere that the gaskets were used on German market cars. How true that is and how they made them fit is another story.
 

· Registered
1971 1750 GTV / 1985 Callaway GTV6
Joined
·
585 Posts
I had my mechanic install them from Classic (Alfa). Here’s how they look with the gaskets and they work fine.
Car Grille Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle
Automotive tail & brake light Car Vehicle Automotive lighting Grille
Car Grille Automotive tail & brake light Automotive lighting Vehicle
 
  • Like
Reactions: bulletpruf

· Registered
1971 1750 GTV / 1985 Callaway GTV6
Joined
·
585 Posts
It does not fit the upper corners as well, as the rest of the door handle.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bulletpruf

· Administrator
'66 Sprint GT, '67 Duetto, '70 BMW 2800CS
Joined
·
13,435 Posts
Perhaps it's the angle of the camera but it doesn't look like the gasket fits around the upper corners...
Hey, if Ron managed to stuff the gasket AND the handle into the opening, and the door still operates OK, then I'd call it a win. That's a lot farther than I got with those &^%$#@# gaskets.
 

· Registered
1971 1750 GTV / 1985 Callaway GTV6
Joined
·
585 Posts
I would like to take credit for the install. But I had mechanic install them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bulletpruf

· Administrator
750's; 101's; 105's; Others
Joined
·
5,244 Posts
The rubber gasket was for the German market according to the Parts Book, I bought a set 20+ years ago from EB Spares if my pre-covid memory is any good

There are several things that are critical to the fitment of these handles

  1. The little fold at the top of the door aperture needs to be undamaged and the outer skin can't have filler at the fold
  2. The slot on the top of the door handle must be clean & have no bits of muck, old filler of most importantly casting flashing in the groove - I gently run a fine hacksaw blade down either side of this groove to make sure it's clean. Check that the slot width matches the sheet metal turned lip width. Fractionally loose is fine, you don't want to chip the paint on the door slot lip - loose can be sorted with a wipe of seam sealer once installed, whereas tight = forcing into place (not a good idea)
  3. You need the stamped retaining bracket to be in good condition.
  4. Originally these retaining brackets had a bit of kitchen sponge glued down the edge to stop rattles - guess why they are all rusted.
  5. I made up a 1mm steel stiffening plate for my 105 cars that went around the inside of the handle aperture, it was shaped & bent and then epoxied into place with careful attention to wiping the epoxy all around the edge, but to be honest gluing it in with panel bond or seam sealer today would work better. My retaining bracket rests against this extra plate. This prevents the dreaded 2 dimples if you over-tighten the handle
  6. Use 2 lengths of closed cell foam on the bracket in place of the kitchen sponge - leave a gap in the middle for water to drain if it does get wet from washing etc.
  7. Don't over tighten the handle - use flat washers and nylock nuts - snug is good, tiger tight is bad
  8. Tectyl / rust proof spray the inside very well once your handle is properly operational. make sure the drain slot between the 2 lengths of closed cell foam on your bracket is open.
I never got the rubber gaskets fitted & in the end I went with the above.

Ciao
Greig
 

· Registered
Joined
·
946 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
US spec Type 115.01s did not have the door gaskets. I've read here somewhere that the gaskets were used on German market cars. How true that is and how they made them fit is another story.
I imported this car from Italy; I bought it in Naples when I was stationed there.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top