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I need to replace the throttle linkage bushing (located near the firewall and the starter) on my 70 GTV. I've managed to eliminate the linkage ball and most of the rubber filling containe in the bushing itself. I am now left with the outer metal shell of the bushing almost fused in the throttle linkage end.
I am hoping to find a way to extract the remaining metal shell of the bushing without resorting to uninstalling the whole of the throttle linkage unit (and the gas pedal?). Has anyone managed to extract the bushing with the throttle linkage on the car? Thanks for your help, James

This is a link to the bushing in question - number 5

http://www.my-alfa.com/en/ersatzteil...pedalerie.html
 

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Removing the bushing from the throttle linkage bar that runs across the front of the scuttle is most easily achieved with it off the car.
It is generally assumed that the bar cannot be removed with the engine in the car but I managed to remove it without difficulty on my 1969 GT.

Proceed as follows.

Disconnect the battery.
Remove the cable stop from the hand throttle cable where it attaches to the throttle bar linkage in the engine compartment and pull/work the cable through the grommet or, if this is missing, the eyelet.
Remove the return spring from the throttle bar linkage where it attaches to the chassis. Long, angle-nosed pliers are ideal for this task. Remove the spring from the throttle bar linkage.
Remove the accelerator pedal from its shaft inside the car. The pedal is fixed to the shaft by two set screws, spring washers and 8 mm nuts located on the back of the pedal.
Remove the vacuum hose that runs between the inlet manifold and the brake servo.
Remove the socket from the ball joint on the throttle bar linkage. This is most easily done by levering off with an open ended spanner.
Undo the 13 mm nut that secures the ball joint to the bushing on the throttle linkage bar and ease the ball joint out of the bush. An 8 mm flat is machined on to the ball joint shaft at the ball joint end. Prevent rotation of the shaft and damage to the ball joint when undoing the 13 mm nut by holding a thin spanner on this flat.
Undo the four bolts that pass through the U-clamps holding the bar to the scuttle. These are held by captive nuts on the scuttle. Remove the clamps and split rubber bushings.
Undo the two bolts that secure the square metal plate and two-piece rubber grommet through which the extension to the accelerator pedal passes
Now lift the unrestrained throttle linkage bar away from the scuttle and ease it upwards past the cylinder head. By rotating and angling the bar as it is lifted upwards, it is possible to ease it past the cylinder head.
After replacing the bush, repainting the throttle linkage bar and square metal plate that carries the two-piece scuttle grommet, wrap the bar in tape to prevent damage as it is lowered past the cylinder head, inserting the acceleartor shaft through the hole in the scuttle first.

Note

The rubber bushings which hold the bar to the scuttle can be fitted once the bar is in place. Apply a silicon-based lubricant to these where they meet the bar. Tighten the six bolts into their captive nuts evenly and ensure free movement of the bar once it has been installed.


I recommend the two-piece rubber grommet and split rubber bushings are replaced during this process. I also replaced the ball joint (Alfaholics, UK) and applied a copper-based grease where it passes through the metal-rubber bush. Tighten the 13 mm nyloc nut cautiously to ensure free movement of the ball-joint in the bush.
 

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Thanks Andrew for your detailed description. I have some time over the holiday to attempt this maneuver. I hope it works because it's not a GT, but a JZ.

Happy Holidays!
 
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