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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know what the torque spec is for the exhaust manifold. I just discovered a few of them are loose to various degrees. Realizing I can get a torque wrench in there, I do my best by feel. Checked the manuals and looked around in the forum and can't find the spec. Thanks.
 

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before you do this, run a tap into each hole.. then instale new longer studs, blue locktight.. if you try to tq. on the old org. studs they will brake free, there really is not much threads on each stud into the head.... after you tap /chase the threads.. measure the dept of each hole , get new studes to match..i have seen a lot of pulled exhaustt manifold studs..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are you thinking I have the engine out of the car? I barely find room to get in there with a ratchet or wrench to tighten the nuts, so I don't know that I'd have room to get in there with a tap. Anyways, are you thinking my problem is the studs are backing out?
 

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you can do it on car.. just remove the manifold off the car. this will let you have more room to work with, as to tap it.. all of them will be very easy. except the lower one next to the body. but even that one won't be very hard.. little oil on the tap, and off you go. after you tap/chase, all of them out clean with spray brake cleaner,, new( loger studs( remember measure the hole) got my studs at ace hardware store.. blue locktight the threads that go into the block.. instale let sit over night.. instale headers.. but do not use spring lock washers, use reg washers, and figer tight = a nice snug on the wrench..( also use anti-seize n the exposed threads.n
 

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Are you thinking I have the engine out of the car? I barely find room to get in there with a ratchet or wrench to tighten the nuts, so I don't know that I'd have room to get in there with a tap. Anyways, are you thinking my problem is the studs are backing out?
If they are loose, they must be leaking? can you see any black soot around the bolts?
You won't get in there with a torquewrench, that is for sure! Just tighten them as much as possible with a short wrench/spanner, even that is a pain to do on some of the harder to reach ones.
 

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A different opinion

z
before you do this, run a tap into each hole.. then instale new longer studs, blue locktight.. if you try to tq. on the old org. studs they will brake free, there really is not much threads on each stud into the head.... after you tap /chase the threads.. measure the dept of each hole , get new studes to match..i have seen a lot of pulled exhaustt manifold studs..
That's a lot of work for a couple loose nuts... and i've seen a lot of them that haven't pulled out. 8 on my car to start. Wouldnt tapping them run the risk of punching into the water jacket?

When i replaced my manifold, I just tighten them up to about as tight as I can by hand with a normal sized open end wrench. If you're prone to hamfisting stuff, take it easy and as mentioned above, check for leaks and retighten a 6th of a turn until the leaks are gone. If it still leaks, then get a new copper gasket and have the mmanifold checked to see if the mounting surfaces are warped/not straight.

Check to see that the nuts are brass and that you still have the washers. If a stud turns, or if you have other issues, then the above makes sense to take the effort to do, IMHO.
 

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Ah, I read Bianchi's post again, he was saying just to chase the threads, not drill/tap deeper. Not going to punch into the water jacket doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Last night before putting in the post, I had already snugged them up a bit, and thats all I'm planning, at least for the time being. Although some were a little loose, I only saw one spot where there was a touch of soot, and not even where I found the loosest nut which wasn't even finger tight. I'll have to look tonight, but I don't remember seeing a washer, but wasn't looking for one either. I also drove the car about 25 miles, so I'll be looking for any soot, as I wipped up what little I saw in that area.

I'll keep an eye on things, and if necessary take Bianchi's recommendations over the winter.

Thanks for everyone's input.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good question, nobody gave one. I guess because you can't use a torque wrench. I guess hand tight (but not cranking on it) with a short combination wrench which I'd guess to be about 30-40 ft lbs??
 

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30/40 ft lbs will pull the studs out...FAST..
 

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And the torque spec. for the nuts is what ??
the workshop manual doesn't give torque readings for exh. manifold nuts only inlet manifold.
As tight as you can get them with a small wrench (not a ratchet), would be my answer - you can hardly overtighten as there is so little space in there.
 

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Important to have brass nuts and heavy duty (thick) flat washers at each stud.
If you need studs or brass nuts..I may find a few....
Tighten with an 8 inch ratchet to "tight"...like for rhe plugs... periodic retighten....
Get rid of the restrictive one piece exhaust manifold and replace with a pre 74 or 90 on two piece.....improved performance....cause the engine can breathe!

Ciao for now....Elio
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Bianchi1, I was throwing some numbers out there because nobody else would. If 30-40 is too much, what do you think.
 

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really like to help you on that question.. but i reeplaced my studs with longer studs.. i put the washer and nut on the new studs, then finger tight, then going from top front to bottom back ( sort of like a head nut tq pattern) i snugged them up.. i an also useing a diff. exauhst gasket, from mr gasket, you must cut your own gasket, just use the copper gasket that you have,, mr. gasket exhaust gasket..( i am useing headers on my car) then i snug the nut down nice and firm , jsut really frim finger pressuer will do.. then a weeks later come back( when the car is cold) and re tighin the nuts one more time..
 
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