exhaust headers from CenterLine

Installing those headers is a real PTA. The easiest way is to remove the engine, put the headers in the chassis, and then reinstall the engine. Some people remove the cylinder head and then slip the headers in place. You may be able to lift the engine enough to slip 2&3 in place without completely removing the engine, however. They're nice headers but a very tight fit. Have you talked to Centerline about this? They may have some better ideas.

180OUT said:

Installing those headers is a real PTA. The easiest way is to remove the engine, put the headers in the chassis, and then reinstall the engine. Some people remove the cylinder head and then slip the headers in place. You may be able to lift the engine enough to slip 2&3 in place without completely removing the engine, however. They're nice headers but a very tight fit. Have you talked to Centerline about this? They may have some better ideas.

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He might also be referring to getting the header to fit over the exhaust studs. I had to heat and adjust the header pipes to get the right spacing for the flanges. Yes, it was a real PITA.

I had to heat and adjust the header pipes to get the right spacing for the flanges. Yes, it was a real PITA.

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I routinely used to plan on heating new headers and bolting them to a spare head. Once cooled they would fit right on with no trouble. The later iterations of Alfa aftermarket headers have all seemed to be a lot better in this department. The last 101 Veloce headers from Centerline I saw (not on my car) actually fit quite well. That said, it's always a good idea to test fit a new set of headers before trying to fit them on your car. The Alfaholics stainless GTA style headers that went on my Super were/are a perfect fit.

We sell 2 types of headers for these cars, and I don't know which is the issue here.

1) 101 Veloce Reproduction headers. Made in Italy.

2) 1750/2000 Engine conversion headers. Made for us here in the USA.

With the conversion headers, we test fit each and every set on a spare head when we receive them into inventory. I usually make the *least* experienced member of our staff test fit the headers. They have to fit with nothing more than bare hands and a small screwdriver or prybar to get them started over the studs. Some sets slip right on, others take a little pressure/prying but if they won't fit they go back to the manufacturer for correction.

Now of course it is a lot easier fitting them on a head on a stand than when installed on a car. However we feel this is a reasonable check that the product we are sending out do in fact fit.

With the conversion headers, we test fit each and every set on a spare head when we receive them into inventory. I usually make the *least* experienced member of our staff test fit the headers. They have to fit with nothing more than bare hands and a small screwdriver or prybar to get them started over the studs. Some sets slip right on, others take a little pressure/prying but if they won't fit they go back to the manufacturer for correction.

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I wonder how many other vendors have that kind of quality control program?

I have found that if the pedal box is removed the headers will fit. If real stubborn then also removing the steering box will help. Keeps from having to remove the engine or head.

Also install from the bottom with the pedal box removed.

I have done this with the engine in the car . I had to "tip " the engine just so....put the headers in from the under the car .I think I put 1/4 in first then 2/3 and just start the nuts on the studs so there's a little wiggle room .
Motor mounts un-bolted from the chassis , engine hoist on top , jack on the bottom . Can I tell you how much to tip it ? no , trail and error . As was stated....much easier to lay them in before the engine is installed .

Motor mounts un-bolted from the chassis , engine hoist on top , jack on the bottom . Can I tell you how much to tip it ? no , trail and error . As was stated....much easier to lay them in before the engine is installed .

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I think that's the method a friend used (didn't see him actually do the job). Anyway you look at it, the headers are a tight fit but work well once installed.

Oh. And you left out out the blood sacrifice. Old Alfas always seem to go together better when you've shed some blood during the process.

Did'nt want to mention blood.............

Another vote for RWCearley's suggestion of installing without the pedal box firmly in place. Concerning the veloce, making a 6mm spacer for the pedal box/firewall will give you a little clearance between the brake master and the hot header.

exhaust headers

there in and tight broke a stud on #1 huge loss of blood there . thanks for all the help. toprope