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Discussion Starter #1
This couldn't be more pathetic... my real 105 gt is out of action now my brand new TAMIYA GIULIA GTA is also out of action.
I bought an acoms technisport v transmiter - the car would walk on its own and sometimes won't receive a command from rear to forward -- that was it- ROCK BOTTOM!!:(



P.S. The car would be in the original fighting colors of legendary race driver "MAUROS" aka "Blackman" , he was white by the way, crashed the living crap out of his GTA on the walls of Rhodes island city fortification.
I screwed up the painting a bit...
 

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This couldn't be more pathetic... my real 105 gt is out of action now my brand new TAMIYA GIULIA GTA is also out of action.
I bought an acoms technisport v transmiter - the car would walk on its own and sometimes won't receive a command from rear to forward -- that was it- ROCK BOTTOM!!:(



P.S. The car would be in the original fighting colors of legendary race driver "MAUROS" aka "Blackman" , he was white by the way, crashed the living crap out of his GTA on the walls of Rhodes island city fortification.
I screwed up the painting a bit...
1) Lower the nose,
2) Trim the hood pins,

This won't fix your radio problem, but the car will look a lot better!

:rolleyes:

bs
 

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if you need a "cheep" radio system see about snapping up a TQ (traxxas) reciever and transmitter.....

ive never heard of the brand you have there....you can get the tq2 for about 25-30$ the tq3 is a 3 channel and wont do you much good

what chassis is that an old tl-01?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
-Ok bshorey i understand about the pins but a BERTONE is MEANT TO SIT THIS WAY the back slightly lowered
- i think i got the ****iest radio in the world and paid 60$!! And the punk that sold it to me "kalfakis" original tamiya dealer here won't give me a refund!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I almost got late to work because i had to go in his store and "talk" about it
i have to go to the central shop tomorow and see what the hell can be done!
In the US i'd have by money back in a blink and they would buy me coffee too.
F**k this!!!
 

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but a BERTONE is MEANT TO SIT THIS WAY the back slightly lowered
yes, BUT . . .
that has to do with making the Alfa suspension design work well. the Tamiya uses a very different suspension design. if all you are going to do is cruise around in your driveway, then its fine for an original look. but, if you plan to dice or race with others at a track, it WILL NOT handle very well.

if you want a "good" radio then go with futaba, airtronics, kopro, hitec
exactly. never dealt with "kopro" before, though. in the past, Hitec was a lower quality brand, and i did have issues with a receiver, so i never went back.

i have several Futabas for my many cars ranging back to 30 years ago. they ALL still work great. i use Airtronics for my planes, and no problems here either.

the only transmitter problems i have had are a broken steering wheel return spring on the oldest one (easily fixed in 10 minutes) and a dead frequency crystal. the crystals are always fragile, no matter the brand, and that spring had 15 years of use before it broke.

the only receiver problems i've had are burned out/stripped servos. but thats from lots of use and abuse.

highly recomend "towwer hobbies" on line
Tower has a fantastic huge selection of stuff at reasonable prices.

http://www.towerhobbies.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I fixed the **** thing today and had a blast with it!!
Funny thing is all the detail work i put into it -when me and my friend were finished with it ,suffered a torn wheel arch and front panel - it went from factory new to battle scared in 60minutes and was funny as hell.
The hilarious part was when a curious cat decided to join in we drove it slowly to her and she went exactly near it , that's when we stopped ,she was sniffing it and thinking what the crap is that?? Then my friend quickly stepped on the gas and made a u-turn spin aiming the cat, she bounced half a meter in the air, at that point i was unconsious from laughter, nevermind the 240euros THAT WAS FUN!!!!

Darth - i'm sticking to chasing cats with it for now...
 

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-Ok bshorey i understand about the pins but a BERTONE is MEANT TO SIT THIS WAY the back slightly lowered
- i think i got the ****iest radio in the world and paid 60$!! And the punk that sold it to me "kalfakis" original tamiya dealer here won't give me a refund!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I almost got late to work because i had to go in his store and "talk" about it
i have to go to the central shop tomorow and see what the hell can be done!
In the US i'd have by money back in a blink and they would buy me coffee too.
F**k this!!!
Nah, that's still a little high in the nose. My 1:1 scale GTV only sits that high in the nose when the engine is out.

;)

bs
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Can you believe the wheels rub the wheel arch even that high, like in my real GTV??
 

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yeap it doesn't...but oil filled shocks for an r/c car??????
They make a noticeable difference in the handling, but I don't know that they'd cure a fender rubbing problem.

Btw, if your RC car is getting bashed up, I highly recommend some racers tape. I covered the nose and tail of mine, and it helps preserve the body big time. Every once in a while I peel it off when it gets real grungy, and just put on some new stuff.

Or, I could just stop driving into concrete light pole bases..

bs
 

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it went from factory new to battle scared in 60minutes
bodies are consumable items on an R/C car

but oil filled shocks for an r/c car??????
oh yeah ! they can be tuned with different viscosities of oil and different piston designs to change the damping characteristics. in fact, todays racing sedans use fully adjustible coil-over units. an old friend on mine, who used to be a champ car shock engineer, actually played around modifying his for different rebound and damping. :rolleyes: he even figured out how to use an internal washer stack to have separate low-speed and high-speed damping. :eek: but i think he realized how much effort it would take to tune them (and for probably zero real benefit), so he never actually went forward with it.


you need to find yourself some buddies with their own cars, or even beter, find a local racetrack. that is when the REAL fun begins. of course, thats when it can also start costing real money. messing around in front of the house gets old . . . fast.
 

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"most" of the "cheep" tamiya road cars were just springs on plastic slides..i wouldnt call them shocks

of ALL of the hobby grade RC's that i own i only have 1 that doesnt have oil filled shocks..well aside from my RC boats.....that 1 is a tl-01 tamiya road car....my old race pan cars only had a single shock on the rear end tho

oil filled shocks are NORMAL on a hobby grade RC car..with very few exceptions...silicone shock oil ranging from 5wt - 100wt

im guessing that yours has a open diff thats not sealed..if it was a "sealed" unit you could put in som 100k-500k wt diff lube and get a nice 50-75% locked diff....being a non sealed unit just pack the diff with some silly puddy or clay..makes them real fun
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Dude there's no need for tape cause the front panel is already gone.I understand scratches what about when it gets torn?
-Do you consider tamiya cheap? 230$ for a freaking r/c car is cheap?? No-no no no my friend.
What about a real bumper for front damage?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
one more, i read it uses polycarbonate paint - where can i find such a paint that matches my weird golden car color?
 

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HOLD UP on the paint

if thats a "hard" body then id recomend useing some primer and automotive paint if you want it to last

if it was a flexable poly carb body then yes you would use poly carb paint on the INSIDE of the body as it would be CLEAR..the lexan is the clearcoat so to speak

i didnt exactly mean cheep in cost just cheep on materials and design..tamiya has a nasty habit of doing that..course 230$ if that includes radio gear then it was indeed "cheep" if new.....price out an hp4 or associated road car..hell even the traxxas road car..i got into hobbie grade RC's back in 1989 raced for a few years and have stayed in the higher end of RC's ever since..got some 15-20 cars/trucks/boats..no flyers tho

depending on the chassis design they likely make a bumper for that chassis..but 10-1 odds it wount fit correctly with that body..let alone look good.....if your so inclined or capable i would make one from scratch

use the wrong paint and it wont stick for long or look like garbage
 

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Dude there's no need for tape cause the front panel is already gone.I understand scratches what about when it gets torn?
-Do you consider tamiya cheap? 230$ for a freaking r/c car is cheap?? No-no no no my friend.
What about a real bumper for front damage?
My front panel is virtually gone too - it's a bunch of fragments, held together by racers tape. Next time I re-tape it, I'll try to take some pictures.

Next time I go with a new body, I'm going to use the racers tape from the get go. It really lengthens the life of the body.

$230? I've bought those kits for < $100. Watch EBay. Towers price for the basic kit is around $100. Buy the kit for the body, and you'll have an entire car full of spares.

I ended up fracturing my main rails so many times I fabricated a pair out of aluminum. It's been trouble free ever since.

bs
 
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