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1974 GTV 2000
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Discussion Starter #61
Thanks for the replies guys. Since no one is screaming at me that I am doing it all wrong I guess I proceed as planned.
Spent a lot of time under the car yesterday and everything other than the back edge of the boot floor and the front floor pans seems to be in really good condition from what I can see at this stage.
Pete, keeping the suspension on while tipping the car is a very interesting idea. I am going to give it serious thought. It would certainly make getting the shell to and from panel and paint pros a lot easier. The problem would be how to mount the shell, I was planning on using the trunnion mounts and the steering box/idler mounts. The trunnion would definitely have to stay in place to tip the car on its side with the rear axle in place, could possibly still use trunnion mounts though by bolting the frame to the outside of the rear chassis rail with trunnion still attached on the inside. Might need longer bolts. Maybe do the same thing at the front with the steering. I dont see any point in leaving the front suspension in but removing the steering, that would make the rolling shell very hard to manoeuvre.
I’ll certainly be doing plenty of practice before I attempt any welding on the car. My dad is bringing me his welder this weekend, I was going to buy one but his one has been sitting in my brother in laws garage for ten years so Dad has reclaimed it and is loaning it to me. It is a Unimig minimig 120, hopefully it will be up to the job.
 

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I have seen car tippers that bolt to wheel hubs ...

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Interesting, although that then means you can’t remove the suspension while it is attached to the frame/tipper, I dont think I want to go down that road. It would also mean a very wide base to the tipper, I am hoping design one with a narrow base and a 45degree section to make it easier to tip.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Thought it was time for an update. Had my dad here over the weekend, it was good to have someone to discuss the car with in depth (my wife and three daughters don't seem to share my enthusiasm!) While going over the car we discovered the right rear corner is significantly lower than the left, about 5-15mm depending where you measure. This goes back to a poor repair of accident damage in that corner, hopefully once the spare wheel well and back edge of the boot floor are replaced the outer panels can be persuaded back to where they should be.
Anyway been busy stripping the paint, got a lot done today using a combination of stripping discs and a twisted wire brush cup on the angle grinder. Makita purple stripping discs are very good, last much longer the the cheapo ones, you can actually get a couple of panels stripped with one disc. Fixed panels now done, did not like what I found. Lots of bad accident repairs, even some areas where it looks like a the point of a pick hammer has been deliberately used to make dents for the bog to adhere too, oh dear...
Still have bootlid, doors and bonnet to go plus engine bay, door jams, etc, etc etc.
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I`ve found that most problems with rust or paint are generally not from construction of the car but from piss poor repairs during the car`s life. Is it just poor work standards or pressure from insurance companies to get cars repaired quick and as cheap as. Both I suspect.
 

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Remember owners didn't want to pay Rolls Royce repair costs. They were cheap and cheerful cars

Pete
 

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Pete they were never cheap and cheerful cars but they were owned by a lot of "would be if they could be" types-all flash and no cash once the cars got a bit older. Crash repairs however weren`t paid by the owner, apart from the excess so it wasn`t really cheap owners but cheap insurance companies and crap tradespeople who were responsible for poor repair.
 

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Hi there,

I couldnt help but notice the rubber gromet on your car through which your steering goes through on the fire wall. The grommet appears to be from a Air Conditioning model, hence the three extra holes.

It's hard to tell the condition of this grommet but if it's not too shabby would you be interested in selling it? I have an AC car which would benefit from the part. If your car doesn't have AC then the grommet is just letting in cold air and freezing your legs while you drive and you could get a more suitable replacement for around $23 USD from Classic Alfa RB101 STEERING COLUMN GROMMET - RIGHT HAND DRIVE.

Interested?

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There's no way a New Zealand GTV would have ever had airconditioning. I guess it could have been a private import ...

Pete
 

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1974 GTV 2000
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Discussion Starter #70
Well thanks WA-Alfa, I learnt something new today. Yes I do have an Air Conditioning type steering column grommet, I didn’t realise there were two types. The extra holes are actually just blanks, they are blocked by a bit of rubber which I guess would be cut out if air con was installed. Perhaps this was standard in the Aussie market. Unfortunately the aircon style grommet (and its surrounding frame) is a completely different shape to the standard one so I think I am going to need to keep it. There is an oval hole in the firewall which I don’t think would be covered by the other style of grommet that is available new.
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Best to keep it it in that case. I've never seen this grommet before so your photos come in handy - thanks. Do you know where your car came from? I'm poorly informed on manufaturing differences between countries but its always useful to know the subtle differences.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Mine is an Aussie car, believe it started life in Sydney, I bought it in Canberra. 2/74 manufacturing date.
 

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Mine is an Aussie car, believe it started life in Sydney, I bought it in Canberra. 2/74 manufacturing date.
Now it all makes sense.

So the solution, quite a logical one really, is for you two to swap cars :)
Pete
 

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Now it all makes sense.

So the solution, quite a logical one really, is for you two to swap cars :)
Pete
Ah, Pete. Thanks, first belly laugh of the day.
 

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I've learnt something today. I've never seen that grommet before, a mate has a 2ltr aussie car so i'll take a look.

WA alfa, try rob at manning motors in Sydney, he might have a good second hand one

cheers Ian
 

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Discussion Starter #77 (Edited)
Hi Guys, thought it was time for an update. Outside of the car is now all stripped except for the drivers door.
The bog is so thick on the driver door I am not going to waste my time stripping it, I will just order a new skin. It was partially reskinned 20 years ago and the work done was very bad, there is a lap join at the swage line and it must have shrunk in when it was welded. The clown that did it just filled it up with bog, over 1cm thick at the swage line, makes me mad...
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The rest of the car has is now looking ready for work. After stripping it I went over all the panels with an orbital sander then treated them with POR15 Metal Ready (similar to deoxidine/ospho/keyphos etc) with has left it with a dull finish and protective zinc coating.
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There is a lot of work to be done, lots of bad accident or rust repairs, the front left guard is particularly bad... Don‘t really know hiw much this will be able to be improved with hammer and dolly and patience but I will do my best!
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Had a visit from Alfavirusnz a week or so ago which was great, it was good to discuss the car with someone with has been there. This has led to a bit of a change in plan and I am now going to have a go at repairing the rusted front floor pans rather than replacing them. This also means I may not need to tip the car on its side so I am holding off from building a tipper of rotisserie for now. Will leave it on its wheels for now and see what I can do with the floor first, bought some steel today!
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Discussion Starter #79
Trademe seller “ars5” - auto restoration supplies.
p.s. Just corrected your forum name in above post.
 
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