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Definitely right about your standing pedals being correct, though, so please don't waste any time on looking at converting your pedals :)

You appear to have a pretty solid car. Christchurch has kinder weather, a known good place to buy an Alfa from
Pete
 

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Standing pedals on RHD cars persisted because there isn’t enough room to put a pedal box and booster between the firewall and carbs, which you’d ideally do if using hanging pedals. Fixed of course on 116 series cars using the cross over bar, ironically developed around the same time as 2000 GTVs.
 

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Love the standing pedals. Part of the charm
Pete
 

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1974 GTV 2000
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Discussion Starter #25
Another busy day on the car today. Spent a few hours cleaning up lights and tail lights before bubble wrapping them and boxing for storage. Also got one of my horns that was not working going again. One less thing to do when it is time to reassemble.
Then I removed the carbs, the exhaust manifold, exhaust heat shield, wipers and scuttle panel and finally the dashboard.
There is broken/delaminated material on the back of the heat shield which I assume is asbestos. Have sealed it in a bag for now. Will either dispose of it and buy or make new ones or may salvage the steel backing and add a new insulating material to it.
Good news was I didn’t find any rust problems in what I have exposed in the engine bay, radiator surround, front cross member, scuttle and firewall areas.
Also really pleased with the condition of the wiring loom. I was expecting it to be badly messed up but it seems really good. I have just about got it all disconnected and removed. I have been photographing and labelling it as I disconnect it and also making small repairs to it as I uncover problems.
Not many good photos today, Here is the engine bay. Dont have access to an engine crane at the moment so might remove the brake boosters next. Thinking I will leave the handbrake system to later though, dont want it rolling away!
1625033
 

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Looks great, encouraging progress, slow n steady never hurts. I applaud you tackling the clean up as you go, smart. Ive tended to bag n tag as i strip , taking notes as i go, then clean up while its off at paint as its typically a few months n I get bored easily.

On the Super Im doung now , Ive just unboxed everything n organized parts on the shelves so I can start cleaning n prepping. I ordered a blast cabinet n powder coat gun finally. So far ive been relying on a wire wheel n rust inhibitor to clean things up. car has been apart for over 20 years between 3 owners n its overdue for love as well.

Are you reshooting the same blue? My 73 had the same combo n I was tempted to go back to the cream interior, but ended up going red in the end.
 

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1974 GTV 2000
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Discussion Starter #27
Thanks Pinshaw, yeah enjoying taking some time cleaning etc as I strip. I am finding I remove a lot of components in the afternoon and then spend the next morning doing some work on them before I box them and get on with some more disassembly after lunch. I am certainly not getting everything perfect before I put it into storage, but I know that in 6 months, or a year, or 5 years when I unpack these boxes every time I find an Item that is ready to go straight onto the car it will be like Christmas!
I have got a blasting cabinet and it is great, did some components today. From this:
1625465

To this!
1625466

Painted this lot this late afternoon as well. BTW can anyone recommend a semi-gloss or satin black spray can for painting these sort of components? I have been using some Duplicolour Brake Caliper Paint I happened to have which seems to work OK but I will need to get more paint to paint bigger things like propshaft (which I removed yeaterday!) fuel tank etc. and I want to do it right. Been looking at Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black which is supposed to be good. It is not readily available in NZ but have found one supplier who has it at $40 a can. I haven’t really looked into powder coating.
And yes still leaning towards Dutch Blu/beige interior.
 

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POR chassis black is good too. Another trick I like it using bbq or engine paint then hit em with a heat gun. tends to be a pretty tough surface that resists scratches etc. The powder coating will be new to me, but $300 for a gun, some powder n a cheap oven seems like a win.
Looking forward to the blaster, something I could of used before but def need now.
 

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1969 GTV 1750 Australia
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Thanks Pinshaw, yeah enjoying taking some time cleaning etc as I strip. I am finding I remove a lot of components in the afternoon and then spend the next morning doing some work on them before I box them and get on with some more disassembly after lunch. I am certainly not getting everything perfect before I put it into storage, but I know that in 6 months, or a year, or 5 years when I unpack these boxes every time I find an Item that is ready to go straight onto the car it will be like Christmas!
I have got a blasting cabinet and it is great, did some components today. From this:
View attachment 1625465
To this!
View attachment 1625466
Painted this lot this late afternoon as well. BTW can anyone recommend a semi-gloss or satin black spray can for painting these sort of components? I have been using some Duplicolour Brake Caliper Paint I happened to have which seems to work OK but I will need to get more paint to paint bigger things like propshaft (which I removed yeaterday!) fuel tank etc. and I want to do it right. Been looking at Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black which is supposed to be good. It is not readily available in NZ but have found one supplier who has it at $40 a can. I haven’t really looked into powder coating.
And yes still leaning towards Dutch Blu/beige interior.
I have done a lot of this also. The Wurth satin black is great stuff. I found my local dealer and he drops it off at my place for AU$18/ can. The quality is in the paint but also in the nozzle and spray pattern. No spatter and fine mist. For heat affected areas the black calliper paint is good and has a harder surface. A hitemp Primer is important too. Eastwood special Wheel Paint was great for the wheels. Excellent quality.
 

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I have found that POR does not stick well to non-rusty metal.

For brackets like this, I'd just go down to Repco and buy a satin black spray can. I use this for my 156v6 (suspension mods to decamber the rear) and other cars (Vitz wheel rims) and things around the house, including outside, and very good paint and flows on very well. Amazing how much better the spray cans spray now compared to 25 years ago
Pete
 

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1974 GTV 2000
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Discussion Starter #31
Thanks guys. Had a look online for Wurth in NZ but it only comes up with wurth.co.nz which only sells to trade, not retail. Can’t seem to find a retailer. I might flick them an email.
Also really happy with the results I am getting from the Duplicolour Satin Black caliper paint i am using at the moment. I haven’t been using a primer as it is designed to be sprayed straight onto bare metal. I might paint a test piece, leave it for a few weeks to harden then do some “ torture testing” on it to see how it copes.
 

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I know you're a fair way from putting paint on but have a look at this post. It has the contemporary colour range (I think the original document is from Alfa).


The colour representation isn't the best but if you see one you like hit it up on the internet and get some better examples.

for example, there is blue and then there is blue! Some great shades in there.

Also has the interior trim.

Cheers.
 

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I've used a satin black pressure pack by Hi Chem. it might be available in NZ. I Cant vouch yet for the durability but it gives a finish that looks right. cheers Ian
 

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Aaron, good to see another Christchurch Alfisti, and with a `74 GTV like me.
Paint wise I`ve used the CRC Zinc It satin black, available from Mitre 10, Bunnings Repco and SuperCheap. It is an excellent product and easy to use plus reasonably priced and occasionally on special from all of the above.
It looks as though you have a reasonable basis for your restoration.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I know you're a fair way from putting paint on but have a look at this post. It has the contemporary colour range (I think the original document is from Alfa).


The colour representation isn't the best but if you see one you like hit it up on the internet and get some better examples.

for example, there is blue and then there is blue! Some great shades in there.

Also has the interior trim.

Cheers.
Thanks. Yes I stumbled onto this post a few months ago, it is a great resource. This was where I discovered that my car’s existing colour combination of Dark Blue (Olandese Blu) with Tan Or “Pigskin” interior was not a factory combination, which is a shame because I rather like it.
My car was originally Le Mans Blu which came with the Tan interior, but it has been repainted to Dutch Blue so should have the Beige interior. Easy enough for me to do since it needs a whole new interior anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Hey everybody, thanks so much for all the responses on the satin black paint question. Sounds like there are lots of good options out there and I don’t necessarily have to pay the big bucks to get the fancy US imported Eastwood stuff. Really reassuring that there aren’t a bunch of horror stories about spray can paint jobs flaking off after the restoration was finished!
I have just about finished stripping my car to a rolling shell. Took out the master cylinders and pedals amongst other things yesterday. Hoping to pull the motor today or tomorrow, it is ready to go. Next phase will be stripping paint from the exterior panels. I am going to leave it as a rolling shell while I do this so I can easily get it in and out of the garage, hoping to strip it outside!
Hi Richard, nice to hear from someone else on the forums in Christchurch!
Right time to head to my man cave, have some dirty master cylinders that need some attention before I but them away...
 

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To give you some confidence in the Repco supplied spray can stuff (just checked it's actually a VHT product that I use). I made a bracket to bolt a hose reel to the wall of our house out of angle iron, and painted it with VHT satin black. That bracket was made like 2 years ago and still looks like new. Also my little Toyota Vitz had hub caps (wheel trims) that liked to run away from the car, so after loosing the second I pulled them all off, cleaned the wheels with water and a rag and spray painted them black. No undercoat, no sanding, didn't even remove them from the car. That was like 30k km's ago and they still look good, when I clean the dirt off them.

I will say though that I'm not a fan of the Repco branded Etch Primer, so I would recommend that purchasing from Repco is okay, but maybe not the Repco branded spray paint. Their etch primer won't fully cover. Little bubbles (?, can't think of the right word) form and it takes many coats to get a good covering, even though I always use a prep grease remover wipe. Septone or ColorPak etch primer goes on better, both aerosol cans.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Pic of the day. Was very happy with my homemade steering wheel puller, didn’t have one and didn’t want to wait a day or two to order with current lockdown rules.
 
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