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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought an 86 GTV6. When I got it, it started right up no problems. Since the car was unknown to me I decided to install a new timing belt. The procedure wasn't hard the instructions gave me every thing I needed to know. However now that I have it all back together it will not start. When installing the belt I was careful to make sure that the cam notches lined up at TDC, and I have triple checked the distributor rotor alignment. Are there any common mistakes that I may have made? I have to go back to school today so I may not respond until later.
 

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I recently bought an 86 GTV6. When I got it, it started right up no problems. Since the car was unknown to me I decided to install a new timing belt. The procedure wasn't hard the instructions gave me every thing I needed to know. However now that I have it all back together it will not start. When installing the belt I was careful to make sure that the cam notches lined up at TDC, and I have triple checked the distributor rotor alignment. Are there any common mistakes that I may have made? I have to go back to school today so I may not respond until later.

Did you plug the hall effect sensor back in at the distributor? How about the coolant temp sensor at the t-stat? These are the two most common no-starts after a T-belt. Sometimes the pins can back off slightly.

By the way, welcome to the BB!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have the plug at the distributor in. I guess I could double check the coolant sensor. If the pins do back off, how do i fix it?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Coolant sensor is also plugged in. The engine turns over readily but never really fires. There is spark at the distributor cap. Sometimes a vac hose will pop off when trying to start it as well.
 

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If a vacuum hose is popping off you likely have positive pressure in the plenum. Are you sure that the firing order and timing is correct? If the pins back out you just have to push them back in. Just double check your connections. It can be easy to forget a couple of small plugs...AFM, cold start injector, AAV, ground wire at thermostat housing, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have the rotor arm pointing at the reference mark at TDC. From there I have the plugs in as 1-4-2-5-3-6. Unless I am confusing the number 5 compression stroke with number 1. I am pretty sure this is not the case because the rotor arm tends to point more towards the cylinder head when 1 is on compression. I will go over all of the connections again, hopefully I have just missed one.
 

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Check usual suspects:
Fuel pressure
Spark at all plugs
Fuse box check
Coil connectors
Then recheck dizzy/tdc timing

Since it ran before you took it apart, makes sense that it was something you did (advertently or inadvertently)
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, it seems to me if you positive pressure in the plenum, it can only mean the timing belt was installed incorrectly, meaning either you have a intake valve opening during a compression cycle or you have a bent valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The only time I had positive pressure is upon the first time trying to crank it. When I get back home this weekend I am going to take the valve covers back off to ensure that the cam notches are aligned at TDC.
 

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You don't hear any crunching from the heads, do you?

good question. if you hear crunching theres a good chance that a critter has built a nest inside your engine causing it to not run. the crunching is most likely twigs inside the cylinders. :001_tongue:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
To all whom may be concerned, I found the problem. The distributor was clocked incorrectly. When putting on the belt I had the gear turned 180 degrees from where it needed to be. The body will only go on one way so that was an issue. Now the car starts but won't stay running! Always something new.
 

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How long does it run for? Only a few seconds? If so then it is probably running off the CSI fuel and not getting fuel to the rest of the injectors.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #16
How long does it run for? Only a few seconds? If so then it is probably running off the CSI fuel and not getting fuel to the rest of the injectors.

Kevin
That was my thought at first. But I unplugged the CSI and It still started. If I were to keep the key on (Starter engaged) It will run as long as the starter spins it. I only know this because my key sticks in the start position and I actually have to turn it back to run. I'm thinking maybe the MAF is stuck or not operating correctly. I'm going to take it off today and try to clean it.
 

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Did you flood it? Try starting with the gas pedal held down all the way for a few start attempts. When I bought my GTV6 the seller had put a pretty low price on it because he couldn't get it started. I looked at a couple of the normal problems and it seemed fine so I flood cleared it and after 2-3 tries it roared to life.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Quite possible since before I figured out my first problem it was cranked quite a few times. Would it even start if flooded though? Holding the gas to the floor will clear a flood? Just want to be clear before I try it!
 

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Depends on how flooded it is, it could stumble but usually it just cranks. To do flood clear just push the pedal all the way down and start cranking, this tells the ECU to not fire the injectors. Try it a few times for about 10 seconds or so (don't want to keep cranking continually as you might burn out the starter). If it starts stumbling whereas before it was just cranking with nothing then in a couple more it should start.

If not then it is something else.

Did you check the CTS (sensor on the thermostat housing usually with white plastic on it)? I've had problems in the past where the engine would start and die quickly in various ways, and it turned out to be the CTS. You can see how to check this on Greg Gordons Bosch page. In my case, even though the CTS passed the tests it was still bad!

Kevin
 
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